Someone recently posted an info request for a throttle valve switch circuit board only 2.0; 914 1973-76 (AA part # b039906111A)

AA's e-newsletter this weekend happens to list one FS - part is at this link:
http://www.autoatlanta.org/detail.lasso?Pa...19&user=eml


I don't know if it is costlier or same quality as the one a member here produces a Repro circuit board for, nor compared to the OE version.......just offering the info update!

....heck the "Dave" he mentions as the maker may even be the same one offering them here without AA's mark-up!?

Yeah, that's me. George has agreed to distribute the boards. (Thanks, George.)

-dave

Is there any reason this would not work with a 1.7 D-Jet??

I would think that the pick-up points on the board would be different on the 1.7 version, in order to match the throttle's performance profile of the smaller engine.

Maybe Dave could elaborate &/or do one for the 1.7 D-Jet.........?

This exact topic arose over on the other site. Here is my answer:

The circuit trace serrations on the TPS board act as triggers for additional fuel delivery. This additional fuel functions to reduce the lean excursion (and resulting torque drop) that occurs on a throttle tip-in transient. (Much like the accelerator pump on your Holley 750, remember those?)

The late 1.7 boards and the 2.0 boards are functionally identical:
1. They each have 18 serrations.
2. The serrations are spaced 3 degrees apart.
3. The serrations take up roughly 54 degrees of throttle rotation, or roughly 65% of the total throttle travel.
4. The serrations start from the idle position.

BUT, here is the key difference in the 1.7 and 2.0 boards -- the throttles rotate different directions. This means (by point 4 in the list above) that if you mis-match the board with the throttle, you will have serrations that are in the 35%-100% throttle region, rather than in the 0% to 65% region. You'll be missing the fuel in the throttle region where lean transients are most sensitive. Clearly not what Porsche intended.

But will it work? Yeah, sorry, I don't know that. It won't be great, but maybe better than nothing? Here's where experimentation trumps theory. Book learnin' vs street smarts. Try it and see...

Or you could wait until we get the 1.7 boards done. Maybe a month or so.

Thanx Dave!!!!

You might want to suggest that George make his $96 price a bit more reasonable, since another member told me that Brad Roberts is selling what sounds like the same thing as that for only $35.

http://www.bradrobertsag.com/product/BRAG-...or_7376_20.html

I also think that I saw you had a FS post here if bought directly from you, and your price was also $35.

For the Moderator, I was posting this as a resource for other members needing this part - so maybe you could relocate it if it makes more sense elsewhere????

Whew Dave!......put in a nickle & got a dollar's worth!!!!

My advice to Gothspeed here in SoCal - wait for the proper board, especially since it's already in process! Save Dave's contact for that time.

If you need to drive it before then, try carefully cleaning the contacts of anything which could interfere with the contacts, & see if that helps in the interim.

Makes perfect sense! ....... the ECU is looking for the same signals but because the 1.7/2.0 rotate opposite ...... the traces are opposite ....... thanks .......... you guys freakin rock !!!!