ILM914
Oct 4 2009, 04:18 PM
Hello all: Hey can anyone tell me the proceedure for removing and re-installing the hub that the cooling fan mounts on to? Seems to be pressed on? Guess I need a puller and some longer bolts to use the puller? I thought since I have the engine out I would change the chank seal behind this fan mount. Is it worth it to do? Thank you, Joe
r_towle
Oct 4 2009, 05:18 PM
cut two pieces of flat steel about 1/8 thick or better.
these pieces will lay flat against the case.
Use the bolts that hold on the fan, pressing against the flat steel pieces.
Remove the middle bolt .
Its a tapered fit, so when it comes of...its fast.
Use some heat, and DO NOT stand in front of the hub...make sure its aimed at nothing important...it shoots off about 15 feet...it will take out a nut.
Rich
jcd914
Oct 4 2009, 05:19 PM
Factory method uses a "U" shaped plate that slide in behind the hub and then you use 3 long bolts thru the hub. As you tighten down the bolts they hit the "U" plate which is pressed against the case. You put even tension on all 3 bolts and keep tightening until the hub pops off. It is a tapers seat so it comes off all of a sudden. Instead of the "U" plate you can put large thick washer or other thick metal behind the hub to give the bolt something to push on without damaging the case.
Jim
type47
Oct 4 2009, 05:23 PM
You can sorta "pop" the hub off by using the fan mounting bolts and placing some 1/8" steel stock between the hub and the case. Then, screw in the bolt until it touches the steel stock. So this with all 3 bolts and you should be able to remove the hub.
Click to view attachment
Dave_Darling
Oct 5 2009, 08:43 AM
Mind the Woodruff key! It tends to fall out when the hub pops off, and it can take a while to find it.
--DD
Cap'n Krusty
Oct 5 2009, 08:55 AM
Good quality old fashioned hardened "church Keys" work well. DO NOT forget the o-ring, which is usually the REAL source of leaks there. The Cap'n
McMark
Oct 5 2009, 11:32 AM
And if you leave the center bolt threaded into place, but slightly loose it won't fly off. Once it pops free, it's completely free and loose.
bandjoey
Oct 5 2009, 01:39 PM
WHAT O ring?? There's something besides the seal?
ILM914
Oct 5 2009, 01:43 PM
Thanks Cap'n What are church Keys? I'm replacing the seal in the case in the front of the engine behind the impeller/ fan. I didn't think there was an "O" sealing ring anywhere there. Where is that? Thank you, Joe
ILM914
Oct 5 2009, 01:52 PM
Thank you, good trick that had crossed my mind
QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 5 2009, 09:32 AM)
And if you leave the center bolt threaded into place, but slightly loose it won't fly off. Once it pops free, it's completely free and loose.
McMark
Oct 5 2009, 02:08 PM
O-ring goes on the crank just before you slip on the impeller hub. It's item #4 in this graphic.
bandjoey
Oct 5 2009, 05:54 PM
Are we talking about the same thing?? The front seal...The O Ring? There's only 1, right?
021-105-247A-M204 from pelican's list
Cap'n Krusty
Oct 5 2009, 06:30 PM
QUOTE(bandjoey @ Oct 5 2009, 04:54 PM)
Are we talking about the same thing?? The front seal...The O Ring? There's only 1, right?
021-105-247A-M204 from pelican's list
Only one of those. There's also an o-ring, just like you see in Mc Mark's diagram. It goes in the little groove inside the inner end of the hub. It's not available in the common o-ring assortments, so you'll probably have to order it from a VW dealer. I don't remember the part number right now.
SLITS
Oct 5 2009, 10:22 PM
"Church Key" is the old beer can opener. Pointy on one end to pierce the can (before pop tops) and a bottle opener on the other end.
A collectors item!
See, before pop tops we didn't need to worry about animals or humans swallowing the tabs .... progress ... BAH!!!
bandjoey
Oct 5 2009, 10:50 PM
Impeller Hub Seal
021 119 125a
It looks like the crank seal in the drawing. Thanks
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