Started to change shift bushings at trans (side shift). Discovered that the allen set screw is stripped and will not hold the 4mm wrench. It is also flush with the "cup" so I can't get vice grips on it.
Here's the best idea I can come up with: Try to drill it out.
I would like to move the whole shift console to the bench for the operation. Can I remove the two nuts (drain tranny first?) and take it and the rear shift rod to the bench/drill press? Or do I have to remove the roll pin on the shift lever to get the shift console off the tranny? All help greatly appreciated.

Do you have a mig?? Can you mig an allen you really do not need on it?? That other way seems like a real hassle--

If no mig--easy out it--if it is already rounded, the deepnes of the set screw is prime for an easy out---

Just my $0.02

Good luck

If no Mig, and prior to the easy out.

You might try to take a spare (or expendable) next larger size allen and grind it down in a manner that allows it to fit in the screw head, but tapered so that it gets tight and you can tap it in tightly.

Soak the allen screw with PB Blaster is you feel rust is a problem.

If you can do this with a bit (vs an allen key) and hold significant inward force on it while turning, all the better.

If that fails move to the easy out. Use a high quality easy out, because if it breaks that is even worse than the stripped screw.

two cents

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/agree.gif) Heat helps too.

I just did this.....I can't remember what size...but I got a torq (torx?) bit that was slightly larger then the allen wrench. I pounded it in to the allen screw until it wouldn't go in any farther and it had a good strong forced in bite. Then I very slowly (I used a torque wrench) started applying pressure until it began to screw out. Saved myself from having to drill that sucker out.

This worked on both ends of mine that were stripped out by the PO.

Jim

how about a screw extracting kit?

If you have room to work with, take a dremel with a cutoff wheel and grind a small flat spot across the top of the screw and remove with a flatblade screwdriver.

Buy some left handed drill bits, they are reall handy to have around!!!

the allen head self centers the bit, and the torque from the drill bit can spin the allen screw right out. if that fails try the next largest left handed drill, and see if that works.. or just easy outit if the first left handed drill doesnt work.

I never remove one of these without heating the snot out of it first

I'd go with the torx bit or ground down allen before drilling..

Ohh, I should read the ENTIRE post before posting (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Yeah, flush is more of a pain. You can still grind away if you get a small cutoff wheel (hobby size). And having a small gouge in the shift rod is better then taking the risk of drilling out the other side, in my opinion.

Welcome to my world (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

McMaster Carr sell an extractor kit.

2643A56
Socket-Screw Extractor Set for 3mm, 4mm, 5mm & 6mm Socket Set Screws
In stock at $29.68 per Set

You might be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.

got a dremel? make it a flathead... I had to do that to get the inside covers off my rear calipers...

Problem solved. Many thanks to you all. As usual, the answers are on this board.
Solution: Hammer, Torx, 1/4" socket and 1/4" drive ratchet. Banged that sucker in and spun it out like it was designed that way. For future reference, a T-27 Torx is a fine press fit. YES!!!!!!!!!!

Now, back to my earlier "do it the hard way" solution. I still need to replace the O ring and seal in the shift rod out of the tranny. Can I remove the two nuts and pull it all out or do I need to remove the roll pin/lever to slide the console bracket off? Thanks again to all who helped.

Remove the whole shift console so you can support the shift lever when you drive out the pin. Note the orientation of the shift lever and selector fork, it can be put together the wrong way.

Yes two 13mm nuts and the housing drops right out of the case. Yes be careful of how it comes out so it goes back in the same way. I need to do this to mine also but I'll nurse it till I get back in that area again.
Oh yea drain the transaxle 1st.

Jim

Remove the 2 13mm nuts and take it to the bench. You still need to drive the roll pin out to replace the seal. Much easier to do with the assembly in a vice. Put a tiny bead of Hylomar on the O-ring when you reinstall it.

Dave