I used oil eater to clean all my engine parts. It works best if you can get some sort of container to soak the parts in. Use a wire brush and scrub. the sludge on these motors are from years of leaking, collecting dust, leaking collecting dust, etc.

Or you can tke it to a machine shop and see if they will put it into their solvent tank.

BTW, make sure all of the parts for the heater are cleaned inside, if not, when the motor gets hot that stuff will start burning off and you will pump it right into the cab. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/barf.gif)

As we all know some of these parts -won't- fit in a bucket. I like the idea of powder coating, so I'll call around and see what happens.

Twystd1,

The furniture stripper won't eat the plastic of the garbage bag? Insane!

-Aaron

Easy-Off oven cleaner.

Works wonders with baked on gook. but it'll also take off some types of paint too.

Bonus - you can get it with a fresh lemony smell!

Cool idea. I'm gonna repaint anyway. How long do you leave it on?

-Aaron

For reasons unbeknown to me. Methlyne chloride doesn't really eat trash bags. At least the big green ones.

They survive overnight for this application.

I showed Scott Kline this trick. Now he is a believer.

I owned a furniture stripping company years ago. So my default for cleaning stuff is typically using what I am used to.

I agree with letting the coating company strip it in their own way.

Yet the question was how do i get all of the gunk off.

Stripper works pretty dam well. It takes off the crap AND the paint. And I am used to using it.

This is not as good as blasting...For sure.

I have to get the gunk off my stuff before blasting as it kills the media.

And sometime I use stripper. Sometime I use paint thinner and a brush. Sometimes I use laundry detergent and water.. I use carb cleaner if I am in a rush..
And my favorite is TSP and warm water. I try to let the chamicals do the work for me. cause i am a lazy bastard.

I rarely use oven cleaner. I am paranoid about it getting into crevices and it might keep eating the non-ferrous stuff. And hurt sealing surfaces. Yet many people use it and have ZERO problems.

Just depends on gunky it is.

There are so many ways to do this. This is just one of many...

Clayton

HEH do they make a trash bag big enough for my car?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/chairfall.gif)

LOL!

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)

-Aaron

QUOTE (yeahmag @ Mar 7 2006, 01:35 PM)

Cool idea. I'm gonna repaint anyway. How long do you leave it on? -Aaron

'bout a 1/2 hr +/- . Really depends on how thick/grimey it is. If it's really thick you'll have to do it a few times and lightly scrub it with a stiff parts brush or something, but it will eat it off. Works best if the parts warm ( like letting it sit in the sun )

How I do it - spray it on, scrub with a brush, let it sit, scrub again & rinse with a garden hose. The water neutralizes the lye and wah-la - clean part.

Like Twisted said - it will etch aluminum & magnesium, as well as soften some plastics & remove paint. However, I've never had a paint adhesion problem after using it, in fact, I've found it handy to etch surfaces for adhesion. Simply rinse it well. I usually wash anything I'm going to paint again anyways, dry it (throughly), & spray it.

DON'T spray it in the wind though - it will burn ya! (go ahead, ask me how I know (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) )