Converting from carbs to D-Jet:

As people are coming to realize that carbs on an otherwise stock engine are a pretty stupid idea, data on converting back to EFI is being sought.

This SHOULD be fairly simple to do, since all the parts just bolt on. The trick is, knowing WHAT parts you need if the car has carbs on it now.

1. ECU (aka "brain")
2. MPS (you need to test it with a vacuum pump to see if it will hold pressure)
3. intake runners (2 pieces, each with 2 runners and the mounting flange)
4. plenum (what the 4 runners plug into).
5. throttle body, which also has the TPS switch on it.
6. relay board (which is probably there with the carb swap, but may have extra jumper wires on it)
7. injectors (4 of them, yellow for 1.7, green for 2.0)
8. fuel rails (just metal tubes, two side tubes "teed" to one cross tube. two pieces)
9. CHT (still available new, aka Temp Sensor II)
10. IAT (still available new, aka Temp Sensor I)
11. EFI fuel pump
12. EFI fuel hose (about 15 ft)
13. vacuum hose
14. cold-start valve/injector
15. thermo-time switch
16. fuel pressure regulator
17. EFI wiring harness

Brad Anders' site has lists of all of the important part numbers, esp. which ECU goes with which MPS. Jeff Bowlsby will sell you a BRAND-NEW EFI wiring harness, and if the stock harness is at all suspect, you'd be silly not to buy it.

The stock fuel pump can be substituted with any fuel pump capable of generating the necessary pressure, as in a used pump from a newer car with EFI on it will do just fine.

The 1.7 plenum is small, looking like a black tube with runner spigots on it, and the throttle body laid to one side. The 2.0 plenum is a box, and the throttle body points straight up. The runners match the plenum. You could probably use a 2.0 plenum and runners on a 1.7 (probably!), though 1.7 parts are more readily available used. 1.7 parts could be used on a 2.0 in a real pinch, though you'll likely lose some top end power.

Injectors (yellow = 1.7, green = 2.0) MUST match the engine size.

The early 2.0 ECU is the same as the '73 1.7 ECU, they just used a resistor in line with the CHT on the 2.0. This is discussed on Anders' site.

You could probably use either setup on a 1.8 and get away with it. You could also use a 1.8 L-Jet setup on a 1.7 or 2.0 and get away with it. You'd be more likely to be successful with the L-Jet setup, really, so if you're starting completely from scratch, that might be the better way to go. No help from Anders here, though, and I don't have much data on L-Jet.

Hose routing diagrams are available on Pelican Parts' tech section.

(more to come...)