In any no-start problem, start with the spark. Pull out a spark plug (any spark plug, doesn't have to be one that's in the engine now), hook it up to a plug wire, place the electrode end of the plug against the engine case (someplace where it's grounded), and have someone else turn the engine over. Don't be touching the plug while they do this. You should see a spark. If you see a spark, then chances are it's a fuel problem, not an ignition problem.

If you don't see a spark, then repeat that test, but use the center wire in the distributor, the one that goes from the coil to the distributor cap. Disconnect it from the cap and put a spark plug there. See if you get a spark now. If you do, then the rotor or cap is bad, so replace them.

If you still don't get a spark, then you go to the next thing. Is there a wire from the points to the - post of the coil? Is that wire any good? Sometimes, it can look good, but the connector isn't on properly. Test it electrically with a meter. You should get continuity between the connector and one side of the points. Verify with a meter that the points are actually opening and closing (check for continuity across the points, and a lack of continuity when the points are "on the cam").

If all that checks out, switch on the ignition and ensure that the wire to the + post of the coil has +12v on it (test between the post and ground). If you don't have +12, now you need to start digging into wiring diagrams. I'd start at the ignition switch and work my way towards the coil.

If it does have +12, then check and double check the ignition timing. Timing that's way off (esp if it's 180d out, as it would be if the plug wires were on incorrectly) will prevent it from starting even with a spark. You'll need to do a static timing test, so set the engine to TDC on cylinder one, and make sure the rotor is pointing at the correct plug wire for cylinder 1. The rest of the cylinders should be 4, 3, 2 in clockwise order around the cap. Ignition timing doesn't have to be exactly right to start and run. It can be advanced by as much as 25d BTDC without really affecting starting. It can be retarded to about 5d ATDC before you have trouble starting the engine. So, you have a big window the spark for the car to start.

If the timing checks out but you still have no spark, try replacing the condensor (it's cheap). If that doesn't fix it, try another coil (not as cheap as the condensor, but still not expensive).

If you get to this point and you still have no spark, you skipped something, so start at the top and try again.

Once you determine you have a spark and the spark is happening at the right time (approximately), and the car still won't start, then you have a fuel problem.