Scary looking brass parts and such that came out of my tranny this morning.

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Well I cut my car today. After about a half hour of anxiety over slicing the fenders for the new wheels, I finally grimaced and started chopping.

BTW this is totally temporary while I figure out my fender options and make a decision. Probably FG standard GT flares, or possibly full fender flares (but which?) without flares up front. I'm so conflicted! Also these tires are not the final size that are going to end up on the vehicle. The rears are 215/60/15s on 8 inch wheels, but the track tires will be 225/50/15s. Lower profile. Car feels weird sitting this tall.

I kind of like the look of the wheels on the car, These are beefy enough. The car no longer looks like a toy.

The fronts look like they rub, but they clear the fender, barely.



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Some installation photos of the Weltmeister Rear Swaybar.

While the install acually went very easy, it appears that the if the bar is set to its "full soft" setting that the adjustable slider will come in contact with the shock housing. I guess I will just have to set it a bit stiffer! The next trick will be to balance the front and rear adjustment to even the handling out.

The first test of the new set up is next Sunday's AX! Haul Ass baby!

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Some details about my newest wheel acquisition;

These are handbuilt custom wheels. Fronts are 15x7 and rears 15x8.

They have Pedrini centers grafted to what appear to be Enkei polished aluminum rims. I have never been crazy about Pedrinis, but I do have to say that the marriage of the centers painted plack and the polished rims looks great and near as I can tell are much lighter than they would seem. The 8 incher is about 5 pounds lighter than my 5.5 inch stock steel wheel. IIRC the steel wheel is only 1 pound heavier than a Fuchs wheel, so I figure I'm about 4 pounds apiece lighter with a lot more wheel to show for it.

When the guy who built these wheels put them together, he opted for a very deep offset necessitating a 1 inch spacer to clear the inner fender well at the rear. These shots are made of the car with the wheels and spacers on just to get some fitment ideas. It is very apparent that I will have to flare the car to use the 8 inch rim on the rear. As I was p[lanning on flares eventually, I'm glad I picked these up. They need a little bit of work to be finished off right

One of these shots shows the inside weld. The guy did good work.



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Halloween 2005

My wife didn't think a 914 on Jackstands was enough decoraton for the holiday.



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Photos of the motor install. Just a few after all the build up is done.

This blog is all going to be out of order as I have already done most of the building. I'll be adding more info and photos as I find the time to back track and document.

1. 10JREEN all stripped down and waiting for hubs, rotors, brakes, and motor.

2. the motor after the build, ready to install.

Here's what 2.4 liters of aluminum fury looks like.

Of course it also happens to look nearly exactly like 2 liters of regular old Porsche no-so-much-fury.

Also remarkably a lot like 1.7 liters of jeez-I-wish-I-had-some-fury.

I'm told it also looks very similar to an aluminum hand-grenade.

We'll know soon enough!

3. The car and motor have been formally introduced. The car seems receptive.

4. 20 minutes later and the deed is done.


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This is my engine rebuild and car build-up blog. I'm still trying to figure this out.

Well, I'm building a 2.4

Some details;

Counterweighted 71mm crank
lightened rods with ARP hardware
103mm pistons
European Performance 'E' cam
lightened flywheel
1.8 liter heads with 44mm intake and 38mm exhaust, combustion chamber unshrouded for the larger valves
8.5:1 CR

Couple of photos to get this all started.

First shot is the starting point. Me in my 'stock' '72 1.7. Suspension is pretty well sorted out as you can see by how flat this thing stays, but the motor just has no 'git'

second shot is JE 103mm pistons, all weight matched to within .1 of a gram.

third is one of the lightened rods with a stock 2.0 liter rod for comparison.

fourth is the counterweighted crank with the stock crank for comparison.


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