I made a major breakthorough over the 4th wekend!

My fuel pump always ran all the time with the ignition on. I knew this was not
right, but at least it ran, right?

Well, finally ther was athreadthat talked about this. Clay Perrine posted a
good description of the whole L-jet system, including pictures of the inside of
the airflow sensor.

Because I am stupid, but jst for fun, I opened my airflow sensor. The fuel pump
contact looked like it had been twisted.



The red arrow points to the contact. I straightened it out a little and tested it.
Sure enough, the fuel pump shut off, but would come on when the airflow
flapper was moved. But, ther was another problem.

The green arrow points to what I call the cam thingie. It rotates with the
flapper. It would hit the end of the fuel pump contact and cause the fuel
pump to shut off! SO, I decided to straighten the whole contact and bend
the silver arm a little instead.

Now the contact set looks like this:



Now here is a picture of the airflow sensor witht heflapper rotated part way.
it does not hit the fuel pump contact:



This also may explain the missing I had on the way home. At certain RPM's the
engine would miss badly. I think it was when the flapper was at a certain poit
that the miss would occur. Fuel starvation!?!

With everything hooked up, there is not enough vacuum to open the flapper. I
can only keep the engine running with my finger holding the flapper partway
open.

Now, back to the #2 cylinder problem, sigh.

I am getiing ready to set the car up for towing.

I ordered a Reese type tow bar from firstchoiceproducts.com.
It arrived fine. It looks just like the one for Priscilla's car, except it
does bot have the Reese name on it. It is all made out of heavy
gauge material, so it looks fine. I cut the chains to make them a
little shorter, and used the short pieces to connect from the bar to
the tow bracket. I also bought some galvanized shackles to
connect ot the chains. The last thing was a 1/4 inch quick
disconnect pin to lock the ball clamp. Total cost is 24.99 for
the bar, 34.99 for shipping, and about 5 for the sahckles.

Next, I ordered a tow bracket from dlee1967 on 914world.com.
I asked for extra eyes at the end to attach chains for the 914.
Cost, $110 shipped. That should be here later this week.

I took off the front valance today in preparation. That was
confusing! On the '75, the rybber bumper covers the top
edge of the valance. I rmoved the two end screws from
each end and though that was all. But, there are more in
the center!
One ofthe iner mounting ears was brokend off, but the other
was still attached. I finally found that the screws go through
into the front trunk, so I was able to take it off. Now I just
need to remove the front torsionbar bolts and attach the
bracket. I hope that is easy! I hope the whole front end
doesn't fall off when I do it!

I am getting very frustrated. I sent the injectors out for cleaning and testing,
and installed them yesterday. Today, I tested it all out. I had a leak on the
right side, I think I cracked the hose. I cut the end off and re-installed it. No
leak for now, but I still need to repplace the right side hoses!

When I tested it, it starte d quickly, but the problems remain. #2 is cold, and it
won't idle. It falls right trough and stalls. Even when revved up, it will hold it for a
few seconds and then just dies. I can save it , but it will "pop" through the intake
system. I don't think there are any leaks in the vacuum system any more. The
only possilbe one might be the throttle body itself. I hate to remove it though!

Why is #2 not running? No idea at this point. Ichanged out the plug, changed the
wire, nad may have changed the injector. The only thing I can think of is a bad
wire to the injectors. I will clean everything tomorrow, including the connectors.
The plug looks wet as if it is getting gas, but the pipe is cold!!

I also checked the fuel pressure while it was running. No problem. I though it
might be dropping and that was causing the dying of the engine.

I was not going to do any work on the car while I was waiting for
the injectors, but I decided to look at the seats. The seat onthe driver's side
was very difficult to move. I finally got it to move, and figured out how to
remove it. THe spring that holds it in is very far forward. There is also very
old and very thick. Therefore, I removed the rails from the seat, and also
removed the base mounted in the car. Now I can clean them and get them
running moresmothly. I'd also like to swap the left and right seats, and also
the side that has the adjuster on it, to make it easier to slide the seat back
and forth.

Here are a few pictures:

Yesterday, I pulled #1 and #2 injectors. I was going to swap them to see if the
problem moved, but after geting them all the way out, the flexible hose on #2
was pretty bad. So, I just pulled them all and packaged them for shipment to
witchhunter for cleaning. A few "interesting things abouit them though:

#1 is blue! THe others are white???

#3 is missing most of the pintle cover(?). Anyway, witchunter said they replace
those.

I can'tread the numbers onmany of them.

Here are the pictures:

#1


#2


#3


#4



The injectors should be back in a week. Hope so!

More mysteries!

I pulled both fuel injectors on the port side and ran them into cut off water
bottles. Both injectors worked, but #2 seemed weaker. I am going to look at this
more later. I pulled #2 plug and it showed signs of gas on it?? Didn't seem to
be working though. Maybe it's ignition? Got to get a remote starter. I can't test
without getting help from a neighbor. Add to the first page list, replace the short
fuel lines to the injectors!

I ordered a center console and speaker grills from URY914. THey should be here
the end of next week. A lot of things to think about with it. I'd like some gauges,
probably oil pressure and temperature, and maybe a voltmeter. I might also
put in a power inverter, since I use the computer a lot in the car!

My power window kit came yesterday. It looks pretty straightforward to install.
However, I think I will wait until I get my center console to decide. I may put only
two switches in the center console, although it does come with two housings for
switches. Tha twould work too. Decisions, decisions!

Well, it runs again! It has been strange. Everyone said it had a vacuum leak.
I agreed, but didn't know what was leaking. Than I thought about it. Three plugs
showed an indication of running rich. One, #2, looked lean.

I plugged all the vacuum lines as suggested, and then disconnected the cold
start valve. It started right up and idled sort of for two or three minutes.
Then it died. It restarted, but died again after a couple of seconds. All HE's were
hot except #2. Need to look at that. Also, when it dies, it is hard to catch with the
throttle. I wasn't cranking, so I don't know how it felt myself. I had the air flow
sensor removed from the air cleaner, and flipped it over so I could watch it. It
looks normal, opening a little as the car is cranked and most of the way as the
throttle valve opens and the car accelerates.

Now, on to the cylinder #2 problem, and the dying out.

More reading to do, and deciding what to hook up again.

A few more notes on this problem -

1. I have a decel valve, but I did not find it described in the fuel injection
descriptions, nor was it on the drawings. However, when I disconnected it, I found
a hard spot in the small vacuum line. It turned out to be a little "pill" in the line
just before it is connected to the decel valve. This was a small metal thingie that
blocked the vacuum line.



I replaced this line. Sucking on the line indicated that a vacuum was pulled
through this line and vacuum was held. The decel valve has been removed and
plugged, but I may reconnect it later.

[color=#FFFFFF]Wish I'd had this feature when I got my car. I would
have documented how I broke my car!

I've never used a blog before, so I don't knoqw how I'll do with this.

I'll put in briefly how I got it, my drive home,etc. Maybe later...

Now I want to talk about where I am.

I've got a 1975 1.8 Liter L-Jet equipped Porsche 914.

It isn't running right now. I have been tinkering with it, and everything I do
seems to break it! - FIXED!

Here is the list of things to fix, understand, etc:

1. Bad miss at about 3000 RPM. It is pretty much fine aboveand below that. -
FIXED!

2. The wheels shake. This is at random times. Sometimes it is
there, and sometimes it isn't.

3. The headlights are not aimed. - BETTER!

4. The instrument panel lights are dead. - NO!

5. The vent system does not seem to work. Fan does not run. - SORTA FIXED!

6. The sun visors are loose. Driver's side holder is cracked. Visors are ratty
looking. REMOVED PASSENGER VISOR!

7. The speedometer is not calibrated due to tire size.

8. Gas gauge range seems a little low - BETTER!

9. High beam indicator does not work - FIXED!

10. Emergency brake is too stiff. Handle is too close to seat.

11. Fuel pump runs continuously on ignition switch turn-on. - FIXED!

12. Windshield washer does not work.

13. Turn signals do not cancel - PARTIAL FIX, NEEDS WORK!

14. Odometer does not work.

15. No radio or speakers. No speaker grills. - DONE

16. Left rear is too high neg camber or right is too straight up - BETTER AFTER
ALIGNMENT

17. Car tracks straight. No wander.

18. Need tow bar setup. - DONE!

19. Need new tires. Currently 195/50-15.- DONE!

20. No first gear synchro. - TRUE!

21. Weak 2nd gear synchro. - I DON'T THINK SO.

22. Wiper motor doesn't park.

23. Trunk coutesy light doesn't work. - DONE!

24. I need a right side mirror _ DONE! WOULD LIKE A CONVEX ONE...

25. Replace the short fuel lines to the fuel injectors! - DONE!

26. Need radio, and speaker grills - DONE!

27. Need rubber bumpers for targa top, GWN7?

28. Need much body work.