F/S – 1970 914/6 conversion

The details;
I purchased the car about two years ago from a local owner who did the conversion. The car build date is 4/70. After purchasing the car I did a complete tear down and rebuild from the ground up. I have over 240 megs of pictures and documentation on the build. It was never my intent to sell the car as it was built with many ideas that I’d had for a while but I have some investment opportunities that are too good to pass up. Here are some of the quick details about the car;

Engine and trans;
The engine the car came with (2.4T) has been sold to another individual. Here’s the story of the engine that’s in the car; Engine is a 1977 2.7T CIS (7R case) that I purchased from a Porsche mechanic. It was pulled from a car he was doing a transplant in. Neither the new owner of the car or the mechanic new anything about the history of the engine other than it looked like it had undergone a recent rebuild due to the case sealer being different and looking into the ports everything was very clean. I installed the Carrera oil tensioners, checked cam timing, added turbo valve covers, did the cooling mod to the tins, cleaned the CIS system and reassembled it. It has been running now for about a year. It has a small oil leak that I believe to be coming from the front main seal. (I really should have replaced it before I put the engine back in but it looked good) and if it isn't driven for about a week it will smoke on startup. No smoke on warm / hot start or under exceleration. The rear firewall has been modified so the CIS will fit into the car. The mod is very clean and most people don’t even notice it. The roof still fits into the rear trunk without a problem. The oil cooler is located under the rear trunk and works very good in that location. Even with “spirited” driving in the local high desert mountains (ambient temp in the mid 80’s) the temperature stays normal. A stock 911 fuel pump is located in front of the gas tank firewall for easy access as is a micron filter that replaces the screen in the tank. Steel fuel lines run through the tunnel. The transmission was redone by a well known local Porsche guy (name available upon request) and I just recently installed the Jwest shift kit. It does not grind when going into any gear and is probably one of the best shifting 914's you will ever drive. It has 914/6 HE’s. The passenger side required some patching so I cut and welded a new panel on. The muffler is a stock 911; 2 in, 1 out.

Suspension, tires & wheels;
It has Red Koni adjustables all around. The front end is from an early 911 and has the aluminum “S” calipers (3.5" spacing) that have been rebuilt. Rears are stock 914 rebuilt calipers on 5 lug hubs. The original wheels were 14 x 5 Fuchs. After finishing the car it was obvious to me that the small wheels were not going to work (too much power for the 195's). The wheels are custom made 15 x 7 steelies with the proper offset for a 914. I also pushed the rear fenders out a little more than 1”. I have new Falken Ziex 225/50/r15 tires all around. 8mm spacers were added to push the wheels out to the edge.

Body;
As mentioned above during reconstruction I pushed the rear fenders out just over 1”. The front and rear lids are fiberglass to save weight. The battery has been relocated to the rear trunk and the circuit board has been eliminated from the trunk area. A custom switched fuse panel has replaced it and is located elsewhere on the car. The paint was done by a local painter. It is not a stock 914 color but is a Porsche color; “Cool Vanilla”. The car was not completely stripped to bare metal. Only the areas that required rust repair (which was minimal); hell hole, corner of rear trunk, front trunk (where inner fenders meet the floorpan) and a small spot on the floor pan on the passenger side at the back firewall. The car has a salvage title due to it having been purchased by a salvager earlier in its life. I believe the right front fender was replaced at one time because the slot for the headlight arm is larger than the one on the driver side. That may account for the salvage title.

Interior;
The interior was custom done by a local boat shop as well as my wife. The interior seats have been updated to the newer style. The passenger seat moves forward and back but does not tip. I built the custom drivers seat with the larger bolsters. I have another one in “frame” for the passenger side that I will include with the sale. It will need to be recovered. The interior firewall and floor pan were lined with “Be Quiet” (the floorpan and firewall repairs were painted with POR15). A new windshield using a custom rubber trim that has a chrome bead in it was installed. The floor mats were custom made. I have left over vinyl and carpeting that will be included in the sale. There are a lot of custom touches such as the radio block off plate (rally stop watches), Hanline turned stainless panels, 4 point “GT” style belts tied to a harness bar (I have the firewall mounts that I will include with the sale) and a removable Dino wood steering wheel. All the rubber is in fair to good shape.

Wiring;
The engine wiring harness was split. The taillight wiring is still in the stock location but the engine harness wiring runs on the opposite side of the engine compartment and terminates into 2 weatherproof connectors. This makes for a quick disconnect for engine removal and it also means that any other /6 will drop in without having to reconfigure the harness. I have a wiring harness guide for those connections since they are different from stock. The tach is the correct one for the /6 and all functions on the early /6 gauge works. The center console contains an oil pressure gauge and a clock. The speedo was rebuilt by Hollywood Speedo and is correct for the tires. All dash gauges have white LED lights. I also wired the lights so that the driving lights will turn on with the running lights. The driving lights are Pilot’s hidden behind the full grills. There is also some custom safety and “theft resistant” wiring that was done that will only be revealed to the new owner.

Known problems;
Other than the oil leak mentioned above the only other issue is the longs have a bit of sag. The door gap at the top of the door is about 1/16th of an inch tighter at the top as opposed to the bottom. I believe this is due to age and use because there was no hell hole in the driver side long and I was able to inspect through the one in the passenger side long. The rot was only surface and had not penetrated the long. The 2.7 is a strong motor and I like to drive the car so I suspect that 40 years of use is the culprit. As a good quick fix I welded a wrap around the bottom of the drivers side long. I have pics of the repair. I have the inner long stiffening kit and if wanted, will install it as part of the sale.