Clutch pedal travel excessive Options

[Krieger]

Looks like you can file the washer where the clutch lever bottoms out. Maybe .060" there. Idk what that translates to in pedal travel, but it's easy to find out. I needed to do this on mine at some point.

[914werke]

assume youve looked at this but thought its worth checking as I've seen this on multiple boxes where the stamped steel pivot fork is no longer ... true.

[Dr Evil]

That sealing washer looks very thick. If it is too thick with that and the other washer, you run into the same problem as the level loses command at the angle you get with the spacers. Similar action to the failure that Rich posted above with the messed up fork retainer.

[peteinjp]

Looks like you can file the washer where the clutch lever bottoms out. Maybe .060" there. Idk what that translates to in pedal travel, but it's easy to find out. I needed to do this on mine at some point.

Yeah I was eying that- but still good on clearance ATM.

assume youve looked at this but thought its worth checking as I've seen this on multiple boxes where the stamped steel pivot fork is no longer ... true.

Mine is nice and flat. On that note I did consider spacing behind the nylon cup and also a small spacer under the retainer so it would not bend when tightened. For now I'm sticking with the tried and true- spacer under the ball pivot.

That sealing washer looks very thick. If it is too thick with that and the other washer, you run into the same problem as the level loses command at the angle you get with the spacers. Similar action to the failure that Rich posted above with the messed up fork retainer.

The actual sealing washer is the same thickness as a standard washer. the seal itself protrudes but when tightened it gets pushed into the threads of the bolt. I'll let you know in a month or so if it worked.

In total I used 3 washer....

The cable has very little free play which I think is what caused the wear not eh pressure plate fingers but the engagement as I mentioned is still low. I think I'll add my eccentric bully back to the mix to get a little more throw.



So- went for a 4 hour long blast this morning and all is working ok. LOVE LOVE LOVE this car! So glad I went to the trouble to put it back together and who knows- if this fix works I can run it for a while longer if need be.

Thanks guys!

Pete

[peteinjp]

Just an small update- the KEP stuff has arrived so I thought I would post up some pics and weights.

As stated before I put the questionable stuff back in and have been running it like that. I removed the clutch pedal stop entirely and have had no issues with grinding etc. Situation is stable and reliable. But the pickup point is still low and with almost no play in the pedal i.e. T.O. bearing is probably riding the fingers of the pressure plate a bit. Good news is that both the pivot and rear main both seem to be holding oil.

New stuff from KEP. I thought it was stage 1 but box says stage 2- not sure of the difference.

Flywheel weighs in at 5.6kg/12.4lbs. Doesn't seem super light to me and I'm not sure of the original flywheel weight. Probably a good balance for a street car with the 2.7 rs spec cams.






Aluminum shoe (or foot?) PP. Steel coated friction surface. 3.1kg/6.8lbs.





KEP used to deal the Hi-torque starter but has dropped them and now deals WOSP.


So It will be a while before I dig back into it all seeing as in its all working well at the moment. I will drop the motor this winter for dyno tuning and to get some paint work done at the same time. I'll check the condition of the current stuff and see if its gotten any worse. My guess is that it's fine as I'm sure there is no slippage.

Best!

Pete

[r_towle]

All those parts are way too clean

[peteinjp]

All those parts are way too clean

Yep! the whole car was way too clean when I got it- haha. you could literally eat off the bottom of it. Doug is probably avoiding all of my posts cause its getting dirty fast.