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> The Doc's tranny waggin'
Dr Evil
post Feb 15 2011, 10:52 PM
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OK, time for some re-education. If the cylinders have this scoring mark on the low side, does this mean I have to do anything? I know it is likely because of one of the times that damn carb flooded the engine (no lube) and it gouged the sides a bit. I cleaned all the piston heads and barrels up on the one side tonight. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Scotch brite and spun stainless pads.


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Dr Evil
post Feb 15 2011, 10:53 PM
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Here are some close-ups of the marks. These were brand new.


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Dr Evil
post Feb 15 2011, 10:54 PM
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Uno mas. Mis pedos olfean como muerte.


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Dr Evil
post Feb 16 2011, 10:26 AM
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The lithium grease idea worked just fine. It gave me a faint pattern to read on the diff gear that was perfect.

Here is a good article about setting up differentials and such:
http://www.differentials.com/install.html

Lithium, good for more than just mood stabilization (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Feb 16 2011, 09:57 PM
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Well, the pistons and cylinders ALL have rub marks....this is a kiss of death for the parts, and my account (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) The worst part is that I need 6 p/c and that is typically a PITA to get since they come is sets of 4. The other PITA is that they all need to be modified to be used, which is more time and $$.
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VaccaRabite
post Feb 17 2011, 07:38 AM
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What are you seeing that I am not?
Unless the scoring is deeper then it looks, I don't see why that could not just be polished out. Are the pistons really so shot that they can't be used? they are really so shot that you can't just re-ring?

Zach
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Dr Evil
post Feb 17 2011, 09:04 AM
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I got the same feeling, that they could be reused....but so far have had only you reflecting that sentiment. I ordered a dingle berry hone to recondition these. The skirts on the pistons are showing light scoring, but the factory marks are still there. The original hone marks on the cylinders are still present under the score marks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I can take better pics and get a consensus today. I think I will start a new thread to get more input.
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leebenedi
post Feb 17 2011, 01:51 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Feb 16 2011, 05:54 AM) *

Uno mas. Mis pedos olfean como muerte.

Pues no te los tires cerca de mi.
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crash914
post Feb 17 2011, 02:07 PM
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just use them....cross hatch with a hone if you want to feel better..My guess is that you will have the same scrapes within a couple of hours after re-install....
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zymurgist
post Feb 17 2011, 03:23 PM
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The cylinder in the 14 HP Kohler in my John Deere is scored a lot worse than that and it runs fine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Feb 17 2011, 04:12 PM
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Well shit, if it will work in a John Deere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Feb 17 2011, 07:09 PM
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QUOTE(crash914 @ Feb 17 2011, 02:07 PM) *

just use them....cross hatch with a hone if you want to feel better..My guess is that you will have the same scrapes within a couple of hours after re-install....


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) It's a bus. Hone it, clean the pistons and rings and run it. Remember you still have to dial in the CIS. If you end up with a rich condition again an smoke a second set of cylinders you will really be pissed. If you think your going to have a leak down problem you could always assemble the heads and check it.
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Dr Evil
post Feb 17 2011, 07:25 PM
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I dont think I will have a prob. I can easily change them later, and you are right about doing the CIS. It made good power with the rich condition. No leak issue. Lets run em until they blow! I love how cheap and plentiful these engines are. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Mar 6 2011, 05:46 AM
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Starting to reassemble the engine. I used my blasting cabinet to clean the barrels and coated them with silver BBQ paint (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) They look like fake nickies.

I also removed the rings and cleaned up the pistons. Then I roughed up the barrels with my flex-hone.

One side done.
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I am seriously thinking of going with roller rockers on this engine...while I am in there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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rick 918-S
post Mar 6 2011, 07:46 AM
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Roller rockers should be standard GM stuff. A Stock engine with pedestrian cam lifts doesn't over lift the rocker to the point of scrubbing the valve stem excessively. But it could add some benifit with less stress. It's proven that a roller tip affords less drag.

BTW: what lift and duation cam are you running? Some cams are not CIS friendly. Too much lift and duration will cause a reverse pulse on the air door. You may want to cross check specs with maybe a CIS 2.0 Rabbit or small displacement Porsche 6 running CIS. Or maybe you already thought about this.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 6 2011, 07:58 PM
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I chose a mild cam as this is a bus and not a race car. I need to look up the specs as I can not remember.
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rick 918-S
post Mar 6 2011, 08:40 PM
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I think you want a fast ramp to give the air door a nice bump without too much pulse back into the intake. Ya, mild cam with long duration and little overlap. That's my take on the function of F.I. But what do I know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Now ask me about welding... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/assimilate.gif)

Nice project Doc. I have always been fond of the Vair and CIS.
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Dr Evil
post Mar 10 2011, 03:36 AM
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Things are coming to gether....and my account is draining. I broke down and got the roller rockers. I figure, anything to take care of these heads.

I also got a new, aftermarket fuel pump for $44 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Now I just need to find a good pressure accumulator and some fittings and the fuel system is ready to be tried out. I will of course assemble everything on the trolley and run it there first to get bugs sorted out. I hope this is done in time for Hershey. It should be fun taking the mountain passes with the even more monstrous engine.

For the roller rockers, I need to set geometry. I have a set ordered to do this and then it will be a matter of getting the new rods.

The CIS should be pretty straight forward once the long block is assembled.

No supercharge for now.....but maybe next year!
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Dr Evil
post Mar 10 2011, 07:30 AM
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Found where a guy already tried to use CIS in a bus on a corvair engine. He did it wrong, though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,139315,176553
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rick 918-S
post Mar 10 2011, 07:35 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Mar 10 2011, 03:36 AM) *

Things are coming to gether....and my account is draining. I broke down and got the roller rockers. I figure, anything to take care of these heads.

I also got a new, aftermarket fuel pump for $44 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Now I just need to find a good pressure accumulator and some fittings and the fuel system is ready to be tried out. I will of course assemble everything on the trolley and run it there first to get bugs sorted out. I hope this is done in time for Hershey. It should be fun taking the mountain passes with the even more monstrous engine.

For the roller rockers, I need to set geometry. I have a set ordered to do this and then it will be a matter of getting the new rods.

The CIS should be pretty straight forward once the long block is assembled.

No supercharge for now.....but maybe next year!


Doc, Find a shop that specializes in Volvo's. I'm not sure which model year but I used a pump and accumulator off the Volvo Turbo. If you find a Volvo guy they will know which one you need. Mine was used and works fine. They were both mounted to the same metal plate on rubber isolator mounts.
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