College budget restoration, Trudging forward Options

[carr914]

Yep, all the time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[rnellums]

What are you in grad school for? I am in a similar situation to you with zero time while school is in session. I just finished cutting my old 914 apart and I think i might have a solid rear suspension console you can have. Let me know if there is something you need and if I have it you can have it for shipping. It just might take ma a while to get it shipped out. (Sorry Veltor!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[ThePaintedMan]

What are you in grad school for? I am in a similar situation to you with zero time while school is in session. I just finished cutting my old 914 apart and I think i might have a solid rear suspension console you can have. Let me know if there is something you need and if I have it you can have it for shipping. It just might take ma a while to get it shipped out. (Sorry Veltor!) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

Very cool! I am in my second year, finishing up my Environmental Science masters. Currently I should be working on my thesis, but this is far more interesting (if you really want to know what my thesis is all about I can oblige as well). I actually already got a console and engine mount, but still looking for some other parts. I could use a battery tray and support as well as all of the front heater stuff (everything was gutted from this car). You don't have to send me anything pro bono, I'll be happy to make a donation to your college fund (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Oh, and what are you in school for? Cool for find other students on the forum for sure.

-George

[ThePaintedMan]

Okay, a little fast forward. I forgot to take pics of the rust before I cut it out, but here is where I decided to begin the repairs. As I'm sure you'll see in other photos, I already made the door bar brace out of some channel steel and some cheap home depot steel turnbuckles (with aluminum body. Like I said, I'm a cheapskate and couldn't find any better turnbuckles anyway. This may come back to bite me in the (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif) later on, but as of right now its holding at 25 1/8 inches. I don't even recall having to adjust it any other than just getting the turnbuckles tight initially. With the rust this car has, its amazing it isn't already broken in half. I've taken multiple measurements and nothing has changed. Also, I have to note with the rust it had, there was nowhere for me to jack the car up but the rear suspension and front donuts. I know others have supported their cars much better than this, but it doesn't SEEM to be a problem. Sometimes you have to do what you can. Also, this car won't be on a rotisserie - its all being done in my driveway on jackstands.

[ThePaintedMan]

The pieces I fabbed here are made from 18 gauge steel that was hand-formed using a hammer, clamps and channel steel as a brake. I don't have money for a sheet metal brake, and didn't feel I would have enough to do to warrant buying one. In hindsight, it might not be a bad idea for most people. I would recommend it if you're looking for spot on fitment. In my case, it wasn't a big deal since I'm fabbing much of the outer longs as well. The only concern I have right now is introducing some kind of twist or something into the frame. When its finished and I take the brake out I'll let everyone know if the gaps stayed the same. I also chose 18 gauge over what I was told was factory (20 gauge) so I could grind more without worrying too much and not burn through so fast.

This is all done with a 110v welder that I picked up on Craigslist. Its a "Firepower" by Thermadyne, model FP-130 I believe. I'll confirm that later if anyone is wondering. Its an American company and like Lincoln, Miller and Hobart is manufactured in various countries. I am really impressed with it for being used and relatively cheap. I am using flux-core wire at the moment simply due to its simplicity and cheapness. I have considered full MIG but for the most part, it serves my purpose - to learn. Also, I read many others talk about having problems burning holes in their metal. I had similar problems, but usually when the gaps between pieces were too far apart. I usually keep my power settings high, but chose to use a copper plate behind the weld to bridge the gap and keep it cool. Also, don't try to weld long lines. If you have to, just do single spot welds. Once you get a feel you can move up to longer, half-inch welds. Thats about as much as I can do while still getting good fusion between the pieces without warping or burning through metal. Remember if you use flux-cored wire to clean them well with a wire brush after each series of welds. When you try to weld too close to another weld still covered in slag, those two welds will not completely join - you'll have small amounts of slag between them. You'll see this is you start grinding them down. I did my welds in a series of steps, cleaning in between till the thing was completely fused.

[ThePaintedMan]

"Hey Jim Bob, you got any rivets laying around?"
"Yep."
"How bout brass?"
"Yep."
"Bathroom caulk?"
"Yep."
"Beer?"
"Yep."
"Sounds like a recipe for a new far'wall to me!"
"Yep."

Well thats how I imagine the conversation between these two (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) went at the time. Now I get to grind brass out a little at a time. Tried MAPP gas - it doesn't work. Gets the brass just hot enough to make you THINK you can scrape it out. It got a little gummy, but not enough to actually be of service. Depending on what Bruce Stone comes up with, I might be able to just cut around it if the replacement hump is big enough. I was originally going to try to replicate this. Better that I don't - I would never get it right with the basic tools I have. All the other little holes I can take care of with some sheet steel and butt welding. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that if you're going to do ANY butt welding, come off the ten bucks and buy a set of butt welding clamps from Harbor Freight. You will use them for far more things than you could ever imagine. A Dremel is almost a must as well.

-George

[ThePaintedMan]

Okay, here is the hole in the long behind the firewall. I left the piece of the outer long there for reference for the moment. Obviously I still need to bend the piece I fabbed up a little more when I install the outer longs.

[ThePaintedMan]

This pic is of the bend that goes up toward the engine mount area of the inner long. Make a paper template using the old piece if you have it. I did not have enough left to do so, so I sorta guessed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif). Unfortunately I'll just have to do with what I have till I have enough to move a jackstand underneath this area with the rebuilt donut. Then, I can use the rear suspension console and frame piece that Bruce Stone sent me to verify that. Again, I'll keep everyone posted.

If you need to make this piece yourself, I started with a paper template, then slotted it in several parts. The slots should only extend to the parts where you'll put the 90 degree bends in. No need to go further. Then put in the 90 degree bends. Then, simply hammer the middle until you reach the shape you desire. Some of the slots are going to narrow and possibly overlap. Grind the overlap off and then weld the slots shut. Compare the bottom piece with the piece above it. Make sure you put the slots in the second piece in the same spots as the first. This will ensure you have two almost identical pieces. You will weld both of these together using rosette welds since this section should be double-walled just like the outsides.

[ThePaintedMan]

And this is it. I welded the back part in today and POR'd it up. I even managed to get a little inside the longs in the process, but most of it ended up on me. I have used it in the past, but forgot how no matter what you do, it gets everywhere. WEAR LONG SLEEVES. Also, make sure you clean the heck out of the metal first. I only wire-brushed and did the metal ready. I got plenty of fish eye in the POR, which I'll have to check on in the morning. Hopefully it just means another coat. I did use paint stripper first, which I think is what I forgot to adequately clean off.

-George

[stewteral]

Here is our old friend, the passenger long, or what was left of it. You know, as much as I read up on this forum before buying the car, I missed soooooooo much. Oh well, too late now!

ThePaintedMan,

Yes Virginia, you DO have a project! But BRAVO, you are rebuilding the bashed/rusted stuff the right way. I'm glad to see you are doing the welding.

I got a MIG when I started my V8 conversion and it is the most valuable tool I have for all the repair and fabrication I've needed to do. Like anything, practice, practice and the welds will get better.

My first recommendation is to install a FULL ROLLCAGE. The 914 chassis is a real flexy-flier new, not to mention 35 years later. After I welded mine in (including running tubes fore & afte to brace the suspension shock towers) I finally had a 914 that could be jacked up and the doors still open! As I see it, set the chassis so the dimensions are right, weld in the cage and then you will not have to worry about the effects of further repairs and welding distorting things.

Speaking of doors: It is MANDATORY that you brace the door hing points against the latch point as the door opening with SHRINK when the rollcage welds cool! I got the tip from Brad Roberts and can testify that this WILL happen!

BTW: Your girlfriend sounds like a very smart lady! I thinks she's a keeper!

Best,
Terry

[carr914]

I could use a battery tray and support as well as all of the front heater stuff (everything was gutted from this car).
-George

I may have a Battery Tray and you don't need the Heater Stuff - You live in Florida and it's going to be a ChumpCar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Your work looks good.

You need to take a drive over and check out the parts I have - they are everywhere, in my attic, Garage, Storage Shed, Trailer etc. I would also suggest you put an Engman Kit in your car - you could see them in both of my cars

Happy New Year (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) ,
T.C.

[hot_shoe914]

Might I also suggest that you put a list of parts youneed here in the thread and that way anyone who might want to donate or get rid of can see what you need. I know I am supposed to be checking on some for you but can't remember what all. I also have parts I will never use that you may need that I would gladly let go for shipping. Just a thought as it might help you out in the long run.


Shoe

[windforfun]

How's the job market for your major?

[ThePaintedMan]

Might I also suggest that you put a list of parts youneed here in the thread and that way anyone who might want to donate or get rid of can see what you need. I know I am supposed to be checking on some for you but can't remember what all. I also have parts I will never use that you may need that I would gladly let go for shipping. Just a thought as it might help you out in the long run.


Shoe

Shoe,
Good call. I'll add that next. Unfortunately I got pretty impatient over the past few months and just started buying what I could. But there is still some more that I will need soon. Thanks for the advice, great to have guys like yourself to keep me moving in the right direction. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

-George

[ThePaintedMan]

How's the job market for your major?

Ehh, its okay I suppose. The field is ever-growing but politics are always a factor, specifically in state and federal jobs which is what I'm most interested in. In Florida, many government env. science positions are being done away with at the moment. Have had many good friends just graduate, get jobs and be let go within the past year!

In my opinion though, like anything else, its all about what each person makes out of it. The main reason I went back to school is that I was working in a field that was interesting, but very limited in terms of mobility. Our company restores and maintains residential stormwater lakes, ponds and wetlands. Being out on a boat everyday is fun for awhile, but I needed more to keep me interested, and I honestly never had a chance to network into other disciplines - mostly because I was on a boat by myself, lol. When I made the decision to return for my masters however, I also promised myself to maximize the opportunity I had to network as much as possible. I knocked on doors for awhile and eventually got the chance to volunteer with NOAA, where I currently help wit GIS and cartography. Here is a little of what I'm working on at the moment. Pretty cool to just be volunteering but still get the chance to publish some of my own work!

Anyhow, to answer your question, the jobs are there. Good, tangible experience is always a plus I think to most employers, which is what I'm lacking. But I think the market will only continue to grow over the next decade. Environmental regulation and our need for good science is always growing in order to make the regulations better for everyone. I'd be happy to talk more about it if anyone like, but I don't want to get flagged for being OT (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

-George

[ThePaintedMan]

Parts Needed

As per Shoe's recommendation, I'll start a little list here of what parts I'm still looking for. Again, this car is kind of a weird mix of track and street. Its just a Chumpcar, but on the other hand I'd like something I can drive around and have fun with during the week. The best part about this is I'm not beholden to a perfect restoration and every last little perfect part. But there are some things that I'd like to get back on the car to give it the feel it had from the factory (namely heat!) So here it goes. I'll update this as I accrue things or think of something else.

1) Battery tray and support (just need it to make a template)
2) Pedal board and accelerator stop
3) All the front trunk heater stuff, I mean everything
4) Heater control for dash
5) Heater control lever
6) Late style parking brake lever
7) Gas tank (maybe, still trying to figure out if I'm going to just go ahead and do the fuel cell)
8) Alternator (this one was dying when I had the car running)
9) BMW front calipers and 19mm master cylinder
10) Firewall center hump (see the FS/WTB section)
11) Original 73 jack
12) Rain tray and hoses (any condition works for me)
13) Stiffer rear springs (originals are 100#, correct?)
14) Backpad (any condition works)

Thats it for now, I think! Thanks again Shoe for the heads up.

-George

[ThePaintedMan]

T.C.,
Sounds great! Over the course of a week I've found 3 more people in the TB area to meet with. First will be Rob on Monday, then hopefully we can get together soon after that. I would love to see all the parts but I'd want to see the car first! If you've got time over the next week, shoot me a PM and I can give you my phone number and exchange info. Thanks for going out of your way.

Oh, and regarding the heat stuff - I am a wimp and get cold with anything under 80 degrees. Plus, I can dream the car might actually survive and be a street driver too, can't I? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

-George

I could use a battery tray and support as well as all of the front heater stuff (everything was gutted from this car).
-George

I may have a Battery Tray and you don't need the Heater Stuff - You live in Florida and it's going to be a ChumpCar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Your work looks good.

You need to take a drive over and check out the parts I have - they are everywhere, in my attic, Garage, Storage Shed, Trailer etc. I would also suggest you put an Engman Kit in your car - you could see them in both of my cars

Happy New Year (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) ,
T.C.

[saigon71]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Great work man!

I too rebuilt my inner long with sections of hand formed metal in a vice. It takes some time, but can be done. I added doubler plates over all the seams in this area for added strength.

My chassis barely moved when I cut the metal out of the car. Keep a close eye on measurements when welding new metal in...that is when things change. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Best of luck on this project.

Bob

[ThePaintedMan]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Great work man!

I too rebuilt my inner long with sections of hand formed metal in a vice. It takes some time, but can be done. I added doubler plates over all the seams in this area for added strength.

My chassis barely moved when I cut the metal out of the car. Keep a close eye on measurements when welding new metal in...that is when things change. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Best of luck on this project.

Bob

Good to know Bob! I'll keep an eye on that. Its nice to know I'm not the only one who isn't doing it all to exact specs, just trying to get the thing back together as reasonably (albeit correctly I hope) as possible. So far I haven't been too worried about the doublers but before I seal this puppy up I will probably add some. Thanks!

-George

[ThePaintedMan]

Wow, what a day!
Today I had the opportunity to meet a couple of great guys, Rob Watson and T.C. Davis, both local Tampa Bay teeners. Both gentlemen provided me with some great parts which will go a long way to getting this car back on the road, not to mention good conversation and inspiration. Thank you both for spending part of your days off talking with a rookie.
I'm sorry I haven't done a great job posting pictures, but I really haven't done much else but welding in the inner doubled sections of the inner firewall. I'll explain more tomorrow when I get pics. I have struggled with this part and figuring out how to coat the backs of the pieces since they all need to be welded in. After reading others' posts, I think I've developed a method to the madness. I anticipate being done with the repairs to the inner passenger long completely tomorrow, weather permitting.
However, after talking with T.C. and Rob, I think I will opt to stiffen both sides though with my own version of the Engman/Brad Mayeur kit, even though the car will be getting a roll cage. This could be done after I get the longs sealed, but I might try and start on it prior to that because I'm worried the welding on the cabin side might disturb the POR I've already put down inside the long.
Hope everyone had a great New Years!

-George