Hello all,
I'm finally getting around to documenting my restoration after the past several months of work. This may not get updated immediately as I'm trying to get as much done as possible before grad school kicks in again in January. However, I'm going to try and post pics when I can.
I purchased this car from a gentleman less than ten minutes from my house named Ray. He apparently is/was a member on the forum as well and was a very cool guy to meet. We talked several times about the car and he was very up-front about its condition (to the best of his own knowledge). He recommended it be used only for the drivetrain, which at this point seems like it was the correct suggestion. However, being 27 and stubborn, I saw it as an opportunity. Most of my experience in the past has been with American and Japanese cars from the the 1980s and newer, and most of that spent doing body work. This car I saw as a chance to learn something (mostly because I figured I couldn't make it any worse than it already was .
So, after seeing the thing run and falling in love, I gave Ray 1,000 for it and convinced my girlfriend to help me tow it home. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of this, but wish I did! The look on her embarased face was something like, "Oh my God, now I've become trailer trash." We towed it five miles clunking the whole way because Ray failed to mention that the CV joints had been disconnected from the wheel. What a ride home.
I then set to work on it immediately, replacing a broken clutch fork and cable over the span of a weekend. Drove it around for two weeks to make sure I was still crazy enough to keep it, then began tearing it down.
I should mention several things. First of all, this car always had an intention of being raced, which initially was to be in Chumpcar. However, I realized the amount of work needed just to get the thing safe to drive warranted me keeping it for more than just track use. So, at the moment, its going to race Chumpcar next August, and I'm going to PRAY it doesn't get clobbered so that it can be driven afterward. Trust me, I already know I'm .
Second, I have made it a point and a promise (to my forever understanding girlfriend) that I'm going to keep the cost to a minimum. That means a minimum of pre-fabbed parts, which also forces me to learn more about metal working as well. This build is certainly not up the past quality work of many of the folks on this board, but like I said, I'm a cheapskate (student loans ain't what they used to be).
So, here it goes! I'll try to explain more as I go along.

Here is our old friend, the passenger long, or what was left of it. You know, as much as I read up on this forum before buying the car, I missed soooooooo much. Oh well, too late now!

Oh man, is this fun. I'll have another picture of it stripped, but this is galvanized aluminum or tin where the center hump used to be. To top it off, its secured with a combination of rivets, bathroom caulk and, my favorite - BRASS! Needless to say I've been grinding for awhile now.

"Fuel cell" for a gastank. Seems someone else already was going to race this car at one point because its almost completely stripped too. However, it might as well be a cardboard box. Its not lined or anything, so I'm positive its not legal.

Sounds like a great learning opportunity. I'm looking for a local tech school or something similar to learn MIG welding. I want to tackle the floor boards on one of my project cars.

A great day! After dropping the transmission when I first got the car and putting it back in just to see if it would go anywhere (it did!) I dropped the whole thing together several weeks later. Let me just say, no matter what I have to do to this engine/tranny in the future, they're coming out together. So much easier. The fun part was figuring out where to jack the thing up from. There was nothing left of the jack point, long, or bulkhead. I can't remember what I did now to be honest.

Can't help myself....looking at that drivetrain sitting there, it's begging for a set of big HF casters mounted under the engine bar ends, a set of drive wheels on the tranny hubs and an office chair with seatbelt bolted to the rear tranny mounts. Strap in and take it for a "spin"! Just think of the awesome power to weight ratio! Directional stability might not be so hot.....

...I like the HF idea.

He should go CAMO like my 2nd one

Click to view attachment

I agree! Funny thing is its already sitting on HF casters (on a dollie). Maybe I should hook up some kind of steering and get er goin. I don't think the neighbor kid is using his Powerwheels truck laying out in the yard...

-George

BTW, can anyone confirm that those are Enkei wheels? Have been wondering this for awhile.

Also, does anyone have the dimensions for the center hump on the firewall? I'm going to try to replicate it... key word... try.

-George

They're either Enkei 92s or copies of Enkei 92s

Theyre real enkei 92's I have them on my car. They would say on the spokes on the inside, just a little raised portion.

When I needed that section of firewall I ended up finding someone who was parting out a 914 and had them sawzall out the entire section and ship it to me.

It will not cost much and is much easier than trying to form it yourself.

Hi George

I don't remember seeing you Post before. I'm over in Tampa.

Be careful getting under a car that is not structurally sound and make sure you use multiple Jackstands under the car

T.C.

Ahh, good call Rob! Thank you!

Thanks gents! Good to know. I kind of like them, since I'll never be able to afford Fuchs. Wouldn't mind a set of EMPIs though.

Hey thanks T.C.! I've actually been posting here and there for several months, but mostly questions rather than any added knowledge. BTW, I know where and who you are very well! Have grown up in St. Pete immersed in music and have heard you play numerous times as a kid. My parents used to manage the State Theatre back in the mid-90s and I vaguely remember you playing there once or twice. Will have to get out and catch your next gig

As of right now I'm doing the long repairs on 4 jackstands and 2 bottle jacks with wood beams along the length and have not ventured under the car yet. I also made door bars which seem to be holding well exactly at 25 1/8 in. Will post more pics soon!

-George

If you want Empi rims I have a black set I would trade for those enkies.
PM me if your interested

George, I'm not T.C. Carr of T.C. Carr & the Catch. My Name is T.C. Davis, my Middle Name is Carr

Weird! Sorry about that. I'm sure that has happened to you more than once, lol.

-George

Yep, all the time

What are you in grad school for? I am in a similar situation to you with zero time while school is in session. I just finished cutting my old 914 apart and I think i might have a solid rear suspension console you can have. Let me know if there is something you need and if I have it you can have it for shipping. It just might take ma a while to get it shipped out. (Sorry Veltor!)

Very cool! I am in my second year, finishing up my Environmental Science masters. Currently I should be working on my thesis, but this is far more interesting (if you really want to know what my thesis is all about I can oblige as well). I actually already got a console and engine mount, but still looking for some other parts. I could use a battery tray and support as well as all of the front heater stuff (everything was gutted from this car). You don't have to send me anything pro bono, I'll be happy to make a donation to your college fund

Oh, and what are you in school for? Cool for find other students on the forum for sure.

-George

Okay, a little fast forward. I forgot to take pics of the rust before I cut it out, but here is where I decided to begin the repairs. As I'm sure you'll see in other photos, I already made the door bar brace out of some channel steel and some cheap home depot steel turnbuckles (with aluminum body. Like I said, I'm a cheapskate and couldn't find any better turnbuckles anyway. This may come back to bite me in the later on, but as of right now its holding at 25 1/8 inches. I don't even recall having to adjust it any other than just getting the turnbuckles tight initially. With the rust this car has, its amazing it isn't already broken in half. I've taken multiple measurements and nothing has changed. Also, I have to note with the rust it had, there was nowhere for me to jack the car up but the rear suspension and front donuts. I know others have supported their cars much better than this, but it doesn't SEEM to be a problem. Sometimes you have to do what you can. Also, this car won't be on a rotisserie - its all being done in my driveway on jackstands.

The pieces I fabbed here are made from 18 gauge steel that was hand-formed using a hammer, clamps and channel steel as a brake. I don't have money for a sheet metal brake, and didn't feel I would have enough to do to warrant buying one. In hindsight, it might not be a bad idea for most people. I would recommend it if you're looking for spot on fitment. In my case, it wasn't a big deal since I'm fabbing much of the outer longs as well. The only concern I have right now is introducing some kind of twist or something into the frame. When its finished and I take the brake out I'll let everyone know if the gaps stayed the same. I also chose 18 gauge over what I was told was factory (20 gauge) so I could grind more without worrying too much and not burn through so fast.

This is all done with a 110v welder that I picked up on Craigslist. Its a "Firepower" by Thermadyne, model FP-130 I believe. I'll confirm that later if anyone is wondering. Its an American company and like Lincoln, Miller and Hobart is manufactured in various countries. I am really impressed with it for being used and relatively cheap. I am using flux-core wire at the moment simply due to its simplicity and cheapness. I have considered full MIG but for the most part, it serves my purpose - to learn. Also, I read many others talk about having problems burning holes in their metal. I had similar problems, but usually when the gaps between pieces were too far apart. I usually keep my power settings high, but chose to use a copper plate behind the weld to bridge the gap and keep it cool. Also, don't try to weld long lines. If you have to, just do single spot welds. Once you get a feel you can move up to longer, half-inch welds. Thats about as much as I can do while still getting good fusion between the pieces without warping or burning through metal. Remember if you use flux-cored wire to clean them well with a wire brush after each series of welds. When you try to weld too close to another weld still covered in slag, those two welds will not completely join - you'll have small amounts of slag between them. You'll see this is you start grinding them down. I did my welds in a series of steps, cleaning in between till the thing was completely fused.

"Hey Jim Bob, you got any rivets laying around?"
"Yep."
"How bout brass?"
"Yep."
"Bathroom caulk?"
"Yep."
"Beer?"
"Yep."
"Sounds like a recipe for a new far'wall to me!"
"Yep."

Well thats how I imagine the conversation between these two went at the time. Now I get to grind brass out a little at a time. Tried MAPP gas - it doesn't work. Gets the brass just hot enough to make you THINK you can scrape it out. It got a little gummy, but not enough to actually be of service. Depending on what Bruce Stone comes up with, I might be able to just cut around it if the replacement hump is big enough. I was originally going to try to replicate this. Better that I don't - I would never get it right with the basic tools I have. All the other little holes I can take care of with some sheet steel and butt welding. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that if you're going to do ANY butt welding, come off the ten bucks and buy a set of butt welding clamps from Harbor Freight. You will use them for far more things than you could ever imagine. A Dremel is almost a must as well.

-George

Okay, here is the hole in the long behind the firewall. I left the piece of the outer long there for reference for the moment. Obviously I still need to bend the piece I fabbed up a little more when I install the outer longs.

This pic is of the bend that goes up toward the engine mount area of the inner long. Make a paper template using the old piece if you have it. I did not have enough left to do so, so I sorta guessed . Unfortunately I'll just have to do with what I have till I have enough to move a jackstand underneath this area with the rebuilt donut. Then, I can use the rear suspension console and frame piece that Bruce Stone sent me to verify that. Again, I'll keep everyone posted.

If you need to make this piece yourself, I started with a paper template, then slotted it in several parts. The slots should only extend to the parts where you'll put the 90 degree bends in. No need to go further. Then put in the 90 degree bends. Then, simply hammer the middle until you reach the shape you desire. Some of the slots are going to narrow and possibly overlap. Grind the overlap off and then weld the slots shut. Compare the bottom piece with the piece above it. Make sure you put the slots in the second piece in the same spots as the first. This will ensure you have two almost identical pieces. You will weld both of these together using rosette welds since this section should be double-walled just like the outsides.

And this is it. I welded the back part in today and POR'd it up. I even managed to get a little inside the longs in the process, but most of it ended up on me. I have used it in the past, but forgot how no matter what you do, it gets everywhere. WEAR LONG SLEEVES. Also, make sure you clean the heck out of the metal first. I only wire-brushed and did the metal ready. I got plenty of fish eye in the POR, which I'll have to check on in the morning. Hopefully it just means another coat. I did use paint stripper first, which I think is what I forgot to adequately clean off.

-George

ThePaintedMan,

Yes Virginia, you DO have a project! But BRAVO, you are rebuilding the bashed/rusted stuff the right way. I'm glad to see you are doing the welding.

I got a MIG when I started my V8 conversion and it is the most valuable tool I have for all the repair and fabrication I've needed to do. Like anything, practice, practice and the welds will get better.

My first recommendation is to install a FULL ROLLCAGE. The 914 chassis is a real flexy-flier new, not to mention 35 years later. After I welded mine in (including running tubes fore & afte to brace the suspension shock towers) I finally had a 914 that could be jacked up and the doors still open! As I see it, set the chassis so the dimensions are right, weld in the cage and then you will not have to worry about the effects of further repairs and welding distorting things.

Speaking of doors: It is MANDATORY that you brace the door hing points against the latch point as the door opening with SHRINK when the rollcage welds cool! I got the tip from Brad Roberts and can testify that this WILL happen!

BTW: Your girlfriend sounds like a very smart lady! I thinks she's a keeper!

Best,
Terry

I may have a Battery Tray and you don't need the Heater Stuff - You live in Florida and it's going to be a ChumpCar

Your work looks good.

You need to take a drive over and check out the parts I have - they are everywhere, in my attic, Garage, Storage Shed, Trailer etc. I would also suggest you put an Engman Kit in your car - you could see them in both of my cars

Happy New Year ,
T.C.

Might I also suggest that you put a list of parts youneed here in the thread and that way anyone who might want to donate or get rid of can see what you need. I know I am supposed to be checking on some for you but can't remember what all. I also have parts I will never use that you may need that I would gladly let go for shipping. Just a thought as it might help you out in the long run.


Shoe

How's the job market for your major?

Shoe,
Good call. I'll add that next. Unfortunately I got pretty impatient over the past few months and just started buying what I could. But there is still some more that I will need soon. Thanks for the advice, great to have guys like yourself to keep me moving in the right direction.

-George

Ehh, its okay I suppose. The field is ever-growing but politics are always a factor, specifically in state and federal jobs which is what I'm most interested in. In Florida, many government env. science positions are being done away with at the moment. Have had many good friends just graduate, get jobs and be let go within the past year!

In my opinion though, like anything else, its all about what each person makes out of it. The main reason I went back to school is that I was working in a field that was interesting, but very limited in terms of mobility. Our company restores and maintains residential stormwater lakes, ponds and wetlands. Being out on a boat everyday is fun for awhile, but I needed more to keep me interested, and I honestly never had a chance to network into other disciplines - mostly because I was on a boat by myself, lol. When I made the decision to return for my masters however, I also promised myself to maximize the opportunity I had to network as much as possible. I knocked on doors for awhile and eventually got the chance to volunteer with NOAA, where I currently help wit GIS and cartography. Here is a little of what I'm working on at the moment. Pretty cool to just be volunteering but still get the chance to publish some of my own work!

Anyhow, to answer your question, the jobs are there. Good, tangible experience is always a plus I think to most employers, which is what I'm lacking. But I think the market will only continue to grow over the next decade. Environmental regulation and our need for good science is always growing in order to make the regulations better for everyone. I'd be happy to talk more about it if anyone like, but I don't want to get flagged for being OT

-George

Parts Needed

As per Shoe's recommendation, I'll start a little list here of what parts I'm still looking for. Again, this car is kind of a weird mix of track and street. Its just a Chumpcar, but on the other hand I'd like something I can drive around and have fun with during the week. The best part about this is I'm not beholden to a perfect restoration and every last little perfect part. But there are some things that I'd like to get back on the car to give it the feel it had from the factory (namely heat!) So here it goes. I'll update this as I accrue things or think of something else.

1) Battery tray and support (just need it to make a template)
2) Pedal board and accelerator stop
3) All the front trunk heater stuff, I mean everything
4) Heater control for dash
5) Heater control lever
6) Late style parking brake lever
7) Gas tank (maybe, still trying to figure out if I'm going to just go ahead and do the fuel cell)
8) Alternator (this one was dying when I had the car running)
9) BMW front calipers and 19mm master cylinder
10) Firewall center hump (see the FS/WTB section)
11) Original 73 jack
12) Rain tray and hoses (any condition works for me)
13) Stiffer rear springs (originals are 100#, correct?)
14) Backpad (any condition works)

Thats it for now, I think! Thanks again Shoe for the heads up.

-George

T.C.,
Sounds great! Over the course of a week I've found 3 more people in the TB area to meet with. First will be Rob on Monday, then hopefully we can get together soon after that. I would love to see all the parts but I'd want to see the car first! If you've got time over the next week, shoot me a PM and I can give you my phone number and exchange info. Thanks for going out of your way.

Oh, and regarding the heat stuff - I am a wimp and get cold with anything under 80 degrees. Plus, I can dream the car might actually survive and be a street driver too, can't I?

-George

Great work man!

I too rebuilt my inner long with sections of hand formed metal in a vice. It takes some time, but can be done. I added doubler plates over all the seams in this area for added strength.

My chassis barely moved when I cut the metal out of the car. Keep a close eye on measurements when welding new metal in...that is when things change.

Best of luck on this project.

Bob

Good to know Bob! I'll keep an eye on that. Its nice to know I'm not the only one who isn't doing it all to exact specs, just trying to get the thing back together as reasonably (albeit correctly I hope) as possible. So far I haven't been too worried about the doublers but before I seal this puppy up I will probably add some. Thanks!

-George

Wow, what a day!
Today I had the opportunity to meet a couple of great guys, Rob Watson and T.C. Davis, both local Tampa Bay teeners. Both gentlemen provided me with some great parts which will go a long way to getting this car back on the road, not to mention good conversation and inspiration. Thank you both for spending part of your days off talking with a rookie.
I'm sorry I haven't done a great job posting pictures, but I really haven't done much else but welding in the inner doubled sections of the inner firewall. I'll explain more tomorrow when I get pics. I have struggled with this part and figuring out how to coat the backs of the pieces since they all need to be welded in. After reading others' posts, I think I've developed a method to the madness. I anticipate being done with the repairs to the inner passenger long completely tomorrow, weather permitting.
However, after talking with T.C. and Rob, I think I will opt to stiffen both sides though with my own version of the Engman/Brad Mayeur kit, even though the car will be getting a roll cage. This could be done after I get the longs sealed, but I might try and start on it prior to that because I'm worried the welding on the cabin side might disturb the POR I've already put down inside the long.
Hope everyone had a great New Years!

-George

A little update. So classes have started again. Ugh. Its going to be a rough semester of statistics, ecology and soil dynamics. Hoping to get up early in the mornings to get as much done as possible, and POTENTIALLY make it to Sebring with the car. We'll see.

The below picture is how the car ended December. Unfortunately I prematurely did my POR work, not remembering that the welds I was doing on the inside of the car were going to burn through the POR. I also coated this in cold galvanizing compound for a little added protection. Long story short, I think I'll end up stripping out a lot of this and doing it over. Especially when I weld in the inner long stiffeners I'm fabricating. Essentially they're a cheap rip-off of the Engman kit (sorry!) I'll get pics of that up soon.

After entering the VIN in the database, I also found out that this car was owned not long ago by kevin311! We have done a little talking and I'm hoping to meet him soon. He seemed glad that the car isn't being crushed and may find a second wind (if I ever finish it).

My buddy Marc (and co-driver) came over the past weekend to do some work on the car. He had never welded before. But the piece he made looks good to me!

Marc and I fabricated a new floorboard for the passenger side as well! I'll post a picture of that tomorrow. It ain't half bad for a couple of novices, or cheapskates, however you look at it.

We also got the pedal assembly out. Kevin, if you read this, how the HELL were you even able to drive this car? Glad we got to it when we did, otherwise this could have been bad...

Good looking progress!

Safety note: welding (and even turning a wrench) don't play well with flip flops.

Bill,
I have reminded him of this a million times. Marc is a beach bum from the east coast, but won't listen to someone who has already been burned a few times. At least I got him to wear a freakin helmet.
Speaking of which, I don't know if I already mentioned this. After my first big day of welding I had the strangest sensation in my eyes before going to bed. Could not figure out what for. Then, by 3:45 in the morning, when I could not keep my eyes closed for more than a few seconds without searing pain, I began looking around on the computer. Sure enough, I had welders flash. Let me go ahead and tell everyone if it hasn't happened to you yet, you DON'T want to experience it. For me, it was the cheapo Harbor Freight helmet I was using. I think the batteries for the auto-darkening function were bad when I bought it new. So, I did the repair that this guy thought of http://www.pskl.us/wp/?p=648. Worked perfectly. I highly recommend that if you have this helmet you go ahead and just do it. It will save you money... and a lot of pain at some point.

-George

Flip flop car work is a fine art.....just like flip flop weed whacking. In the warm states it has to be done from time to time.

Thanks for the kind words fellas. Been raining all day so I couldn't get any work done on the car before classes this afternoon. However, I went out and took a few photos. This one is the passenger floorboard we made. Still needs some welding and a few more bends to be complete, but I think it'll do fine in the car. It was a full days worth of work to make, but for me, cost is everything. If you look at the welds, you can see how it was done. We cut a few slots lengthwise using a cutting wheel as well as one down the side for the seat channel. Then, bent those downward using channel steel and a ball peen hammer. Then, hammered this "V" shaped valley against bar steel to achieve more of a "U" shape. This left about an 1/8th to 1/4 in gap, which had to be welded closed. The only real problem was the warping, because I failed to mention to mark that he needed to put in all of his spot welds first. However, fitment wasn't bad, and since this car was destined for a scrap yard anyway, I think anything we do to it is an improvement. Once I'm out of college I'll find a nicer model to do everything the "right" way

I also pulled the pedal cluster apart yesterday. What a bitch. The roll pin was the least of the worry. On this car, the clutch pedal arm had rust-welded itself to the shaft that it rides on. I resorted to a pickle fork to get the thing off, which buggered up some of the metal and welds on the cluster. I'll have to do some re-shaping and welding once the replacement bushings get here. I'll also POR it at that point. Check out the bottom of the base and all the pitting. Yikes.

Of note, I used a product called EVAPO-Rust, commonly available at Autozone, Advance, etc. Man, this stuff is amazing. Its not acid-based as far as I can tell, and will not burn your hands. I got everything as clean as I could prior to dipping it, but once I did, this stuff found its way into every pit and hole in the metal. I'll still wirebrush and clean the metal before using POR, but I was really impressed. Especially since I've been getting AWFUL results with POR's "Prep and Ready." I haven't painted a piece yet that hasn't fish-eyed. Maybe this stuff will help.

Thats scary to look at and think that I drove it.. Its worse than I remember it to be.
Looks like it was holding together with hopes and dreams..
You are the man for taking this on, I cant wait to get over there to see the progress and drop off some stuff.
See you some time this weekend