1- Rebuilt for $300? I doubt that. I have some ocean front property in AZ for sale, too. Save your $300 and spend it on a rebuild of what you have. Better economy. Does the guy have any proof? All are cores without proof, most are cores after.

2- Grinding in all gears is usually an external issue. Does revers grind? This would indicate that your clutch is dragging and you need to tighten it up. It is rare that a tranz with good lube grinds in multiple gears.

1 - This is by no means proof, but:
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/pts/3530223889.html
I believe he did some SCCA club racing in the past, as he had a bunch of other stuff listed some time back. I have not called him to see if he's but I will do so.

2 - T.C., Paul and Steve also suspected the same thing. Reverse does not grind. Clutch is adjusted per your recommendations/diagram, in the "green" zone.

Wow George! You did a tremendous job on your teen!!! God Bless you more not only with car but also with your studies and with the support of your girlfriend and friends!

In what reality is 20K mi a rebuilt tranz??? Its a core. $300 might be nice for a great core, but who can say without pulling the stack.

No grind in revers = probably internal. Pull the stack and see.

Heehee, sorry. 20k is a lot better than whatever this one has on it. You're right though, pulling the stack is the only way to go. Trust me, its on my list of things to do. When I get around to it then, its going straight to you, fair warning!

If you think 20Kmi is better than what you have you are missing the point that it takes far fewer neglected and abused miles to ruin a box.

Didn't mean to sound like I didn't. Like I said, eventually I'll suck it up and send you the guts. I promise.

George, I've got Evil's Tranny Rebuild DVD & some of the Tools when you want to tackle it!

No friggin way. Scares the hell out of me. But I'll patiently sit by and watch you show me! I'll get my hands dirty if you instruct me and keep me entertained with stories. And yes I'll bring beer. Is Bud Light Platinum the new favorite now that Southpaw is out?

Forgot. Any chance I could rent some time on the lift? I have a little bit of welding that still needs finished.

So, absolutely phenomenal news. After talking with John and Kevin on the phone, I think I've finally figured out what the big stumble was between the idle and main circuit transition! Kevin asked me what the exhaust looked and smelled like. Of course I said sooty and rich. Both he and John had hinted before that it sounded like the car was running way rich. As I always heard it was better to run rich than lean on AC engines, I never tried to really turn the mixture screws down until yesterday. Moral of the story, trust your senses, young padawan. The car transitions very well now, but I believe its still a bit rich as it really pops out the exhaust on decel. I'm trying to find a set of 45 idles to help lean things out and give me a little more room to adjust with the mixture screws... they're almost all the way in now.

While I'm at it though, can anyone take a look at these pics and tell me what you see? The first two are of the transmission mounts, first just hanging and the next with me pushing up on the tail. I see a large gap at the top and obvious movement. I'm really just trying to determine if the mounts are bad or whether I have them installed wrong somehow.

The last pic is of the passenger side trailing arm bushing. I have been getting some real clunks from the right rear of the car when going over bumps, and I think this is a dead giveaway that the bushings are bad - I'm assuming the pivot shaft is moving up and down in the console. Can you confirm this from the picture?

Thanks again everyone!

George, I have the fix for that as well - I have a couple of pairs of WEVO Tranny Mounts in my Tool Box

T.C.

nice TC. i fear an epic failure with the mounts you're running with george. when one of them goes south it won't be in the garage.

btw..."backfiring and snapping out the exhaust pipes during deceleration, follow procedures: 6, 13, and 14". focus on #14. bob is your friend.

k

Nice looking car. You did a great job.

A bit late but I wanted to add my congrats to the paint job ... sure makes a huge difference, even if there are defects/issues that can't be seen unless close up. I, too, really dig the chrome-less look. Keep it up George!

Great progress, George!

You know you are relevant when you have haters!

I included a set of 45 idles with the 55s I mailed on monday.

I included some 135 main jets as well but they may be too big.

Finding the right combination for your car may come down to choosing the compromise you want. Rich idle but good off the line, or lean idle but harder to get going in first, etc.

John

Small update, but an important one for me. John (FourBlades) sent me some loaner jets which I promptly put to good use this past weekend. First, I switched out the 50 idles for 45s, which initially was not a big help, but I'll explain why in a second. I had both a problem off idle before and when going between gears, full throttle to full throttle. Basically, the car would fall flat on its face. Just to eliminate variables, I replaced my fuel pressure gauge and regulator with good quality units. Drove the car, expecting the stumble to be gone. While the transition was better, I still had big problems going back to heavy/full throttle after shifting. This, to me, indicated that either the carbs were flooding and far too rich when I let off the gas to shift, or way too lean. It ended up being the latter. Going by Bob Tomlinson's Weber Tech Book recommendations for jet size as well as discussions with Paul (URY914), John and Kevin, I began so suspect that the mains were too small. Put in the 135s that John sent me, and I was speechless. The car runs better than my Mustang, which is fuel injected.

The car will run all the way up to 4,500 with plenty of power and transitions off idle much better. The only hesitation I have now I attribute to the crappy 009 dizzy I have on there for the time being while I rebuild my SVDA and what I think is a bent/twisted throttle shaft which is making it hard to get the butterflies to close completely on one carb.

The lesson is, listen to the car and advice from others and think through the problem. The hard part is not getting frustrated, but once you understand how carbs work, especially how each model is designed, the solution will eventually present itself!

Oh man, just wait until you replace that 009.
You're gonna have serious permagrin.

MSD makes a Billit Dizzy that is Great!

Yeah I had the SVDA on there for awhile, but prior to figuring out the carbs. I did like it, but I'm not getting full use out of it yet, as I'm not getting the proper vacuum from the carbs since the butterflies don't close quite right yet. The reason I really switched back to the 009 is when I washed the engine off one day, I must have somehow either got water in the condenser or the centrifugal advance became stuck somehow. It ran like crap and fouled a set of plugs till I switched the dizzy back out. Not sure what happened.

T.C., you sure do know how to feed people's imaginations. I've seen that MSD and the Mallory that Chris carries, but way too rich for my blood for now. Plus its just an old tired 1.7 - no sense in shining up a turd too much! But thanks for keeping my eyes wandering.

Me too!! thats what i want to do. I have looked through your thread before, you did a great job. Today went to check out that side mirror
Question for you though regarding the chrome-less look. for the front windshield, what is the black piece sealing the gap of the glass to frame, it doesnt look like the stock chrome piece just painted black....?

Thanks!

George at work on the underside

Click to view attachment

... for the front windshield, what is the black piece sealing the gap of the glass to frame, it doesnt look like the stock chrome piece just painted black....?

Thanks!
[/quote]


Looks like the chrome replacement from 914rubber. I have it on my car and love it.

...Yes that is. Sorry I missed that post before. It is very nice, like everything Mark produces, but it was a bitch to install. And of course I screwed it up. I would suggest ordering it from Mark, but allowing a professional to install it. You know how there are some things that you learn how to do while working on a car that you like and/or are good at? Glass is not mine. Neither is wiring. Or upholstery. Or transmissions.

BTW, thanks to T.C. for giving me some lift time this weekend! And for the picture of my ugly mug, I guess.

Nice taco plate and tuna can

Yep! I bought mine long before the group buy. I'm sure you guys will enjoy them as much as I do!

What about the gaping hole in the tunnel?

I like it, George. I cut the s#it out of my hand trying to get at stuff in there

Are you going to weld it back up, or fab a screw-in/removable plate for future access?

Yeah, the metal there was completely gone. I had left a little bit there to keep the cables and everything from falling out after I did the rest of the metal work (and mostly I was not willing to weld directly overhead while on my back on jackstands).
What you describe is is precisely what I did on T.C.'s lift though. I cut out the remaining crappy metal and welded in "flanges" around the sides of the center tunnel. Then T.C. and I affixed a 7 inch aluminum strip that runs the length of the tunnel. However it was pretty late when we got that done so I didn't get pics. Will be nice to have access though if I ever need it.

When you do get a chance, would love to see pictures of the finished tunnel project, I have always thought this would be helpful if you needed full access in there.

Thanks again for the bushing, it came in the mail last week!

For the windshield rubber, i did finally find that on marks website, what was hard about the install, any tips.... since i will probably be doing it myself... also, are those 16 little black clips around the window railing only needed for holding the chrome pieces on? or are they also there to center the windshield?

Thanks, keep up the good work!

David

Could you tell me where you got the rubber replacement for the chrome trim on the back rollbar? I dont see it on 914Rubber. Did you fabricate your own?

Thanks


Click to view attachment

Hey Eric,
The aluminum trim was painted black. I used a product called SEM Trim Black. It can be found at most automotive paint supply stores, and NAPA Paint sometimes carries it. It's a little expensive, but well worth it. It is designed to be painted directly onto aluminum trim (I'd recommend scuffing the aluminum first though), and holds up much better to chips and scratches than the other rattle can varieties.

Thanks. I was hoping to get out without needing to buy the trim. I am missing mine.

There is a parts car down the street from me that I believe still has the rear trim. I will be out of town this weekend with FourBlades at a PCA DE , but when I get back I'll check for you. Please remind me as I have a million things going on right now.

I'll see what I can talk the guy who owns it down to. Shouldn't be much.

Thanks, I'd really appreciate that.

George,
Love the color! What is it called? Great job BTW.

Thanks 2011 Mustang "Grabber" Blue.... it was what I had on hand when I started. I suppose I'm pretty happy with it

I dig it. A good looking blue, and since you've raced a Mustang it's OK. For now.

George is having Problems getting the Car through Tech @ Sebring. I put a call into my friend who is the Tech Chief who is going to help George in the Morning. It's a Tie-Rod/Balljoint Issue

Yeah, we didn't make it through tech, sadly. I feel like at this point either John or I have replaced or at least inspected just about every component on the car. Unfortunately the only thing I never thought to check was the front suspension. The car always tracked dead straight and never wore out tires, so I just thought I could wait to R&R the tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings and steering coupler.

Long story short, John had a hell of a time the past two weeks getting the car ready for our first DE, which included new Corbeau Forza seats, Schroth Belts, a partial cage, rebuilt rear brakes and fixing a pinhole in the gas tank - only to get to Sebring and not pass tech. Essentially, the watchful eye of Carlos, our region's Porsche master mechanic caught some extra play in the front tire while he was checking lug torque. Sure enough, the inner tie rods are shot. A lesser mechanic (like me) would not have picked up on something like that. The funny thing is it had to be pre-teched at an authorized Porsche dealership, and they never even mentioned anything in the front end.

Oh well, we'll try again in May. The best part of my weekend though is I got to work on a couple 911s and do some troubleshooting alongside Carlos (the mechanic). I learned a lot and it was nice to know that I could actually keep up with a master mechanic. T.C., if you ever hang out with him again, I'd like to tag along. He's a cool guy and I enjoyed sponging some of his knowledge!

Will they give you a refund?

Carlos is Super Cool & knows his Porsches (even 914s - he actually grew up wrenching on Bugs). I told you what we can do in the Future. Hopefully I can make it down there in May ( I think it is only 2 or 3 Weeks)

Yeah Paul, we're getting a refund. It took some real , but we got them to. I explained that if they ever want first timers to come back, they had better give our money back. Its not like the car passed tech and then had issues. If it blows up on the track, I understand. I also think they're used to all of the guys with GT3s who have money to blow. Us po' folk have to do what we can.

It was a good learning experience for all of us.

I think like you said we need to expect some teething problems the first time we take our cars to the track.

At least you guys got to do the touring laps and I got 4 really good sessions in.

John

Good for you.

Update: Finally got the car back on the ground after installing new turbo tie rods, ball joints, Tangerine Racing delrin steering coupler, bumpsteer kit, and reindexing the torsion bars. I'll have pics up soon, but as I was strapped for time, I didn't take pictures as I went along. I still need to do a string alignment, install the rear sway bar and replace the starter with a spare that T.C. gave me. Funny story about that - the car has been getting more and more finicky about starting until I was driving the car back over here from Vero Beach on Friday night. Stopped for gas in Yeehaw Junction, which many Floridians know is more of a truck stop than an actual town, at 12:00 A.M. Car wouldn't start with the key and then wouldn't jump with a screwdriver. Unfortunately the several times people tried to help me push start it didn't do the trick either. Luckily after I pulled it back out, let it cool down, and reinstalled it, it fired right up. Pretty sure that 40 year old solenoid is done for, but it's served it's purpose well.

A couple pics of the rear of the car, as requested by Eric.

Good thing you blacked out your plate. Someone may want to track you down and steal that thing.

What paint did you use on your sail trim. Mike

It needs to be redone. Initially I scuffed up the trim, then used self etching primer and top-coated with the crappy Duplicolor stuff from Autobone. It's too soft and doesn't bond well enough with the aluminum so it's got some chips.

After doing some more research and listening to Scotty b, I used the SEM Trim Black on the window trim, with much better results. This stuff is a little more expensive, at $15 for a can, but you need to do is clean and scuff the aluminum and spray. Much better bond and it's designed for this usage. Find it at most paint stores - I bought mine from my local NAPA paint store.

George's Excellent Adventure


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rKH0_Yywxg


Sorry my Battery ran out on this one!

Part II (in-Carr)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vHTeLK1o_E