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> Damn it! Suspension ear broken, Finally making progress. New ear installed
JRust
post Jul 17 2009, 08:15 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 17 2009, 06:51 PM) *

Hmmmm, I'll consider the front clip extremely partial payment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) It could be done in a day if the motor is already out.


Yeah there was some sarcasm there. I really don't want to load all that up on my trailer & drive 9 hours one way. Make for a very long weekend to say the least. Not looking forward to the repair but I do have a buddy close by that welds. I'll start getting things prepped & go from there. I really have no plans to head south to CA anytime soon. Be nice to have ready for the 914Shootout next month but will be tough. I have to many things I want to do to my drivetrain. If I'm pulling it I may as well start my list (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . We shall see though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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McMark
post Jul 17 2009, 09:19 PM
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I got your sarcasm. Mine was even dryer than yours. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) I just thought you were in love with I-5. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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brant
post Jul 17 2009, 09:44 PM
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I did this twice (on the same car)
it was not rusty either time....
much less rusty than yours

I'd recommend a brace. Obviously you are pushing the limits of the stock frame.

I braced my first racer (the one that tore out twice) about 12 years ago and never had a problem since. I braced my 2nd racer as I was building it and never had a problem at all........

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JRust
post Jul 17 2009, 10:03 PM
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I ordered the brace & if not sent out today hopefully on monday. I'm pulling the drivetrain tommorow. Anyone have a step by step & pics for what to cut out?
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sww914
post Jul 18 2009, 12:37 PM
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I don't drill spot welds often anymore. I grind them out with a 3M #1991 disc in a die grinder. Much much faster and after you peel the junk metal off the good metal underneath is seconds away from ready to weld to instead of left with a bunch of holes or little round pads left behind.
http://www.shopping.com/xPO-3M-1991-3M-Gre...g-Wheels-5-Pack
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strawman
post Jul 18 2009, 02:58 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with SW914. I only use the spot weld drills if I need to reuse a part that I'm cutting off...

Geoff
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JazonJJordan
post Jul 18 2009, 10:24 PM
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QUOTE(kwales @ Jul 16 2009, 07:51 PM) *

That's a combo rust/fatigue crack and has been happening for awhile...

Notice that a lot of the crack is rusty which means it happened a while ago which is consistant with mild steel. High temeper materials would snap with a clean unrusted break surface, and with the the mild steel, the crack would march along the part allowing old breakage areas to rust, and the new break to look shiney.

Which is exactly what happened here.

I'm just glad that it happened with no damage to you, and with minimal parts damage (broken ear).


Well said-
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JRust
post Aug 10 2009, 11:46 PM
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Okay so I'd still like to see a how to thread. I am fairly confident I can do it with a friend welding it for me. I am a little worried about getting it in the proper position. I was thinking maybe drilling a few guide hole on around the one I am taking off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . What did you do? Thanks
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SirAndy
post Aug 10 2009, 11:52 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 10 2009, 09:46 PM) *

Okay so I'd still like to see a how to thread.

Brad posted a pictorial a few years back. If you're lucky, he didn't delete the pictures

Might have been on Sean's old white car?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy
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JRust
post Aug 11 2009, 12:20 AM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 10 2009, 10:52 PM) *

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 10 2009, 09:46 PM) *

Okay so I'd still like to see a how to thread.

Brad posted a pictorial a few years back. If you're lucky, he didn't delete the pictures

Might have been on Sean's old white car?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy


Found it in the tech articles but no pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
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strawman
post Aug 11 2009, 08:48 PM
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See posts 29 & 30 of http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...f=2&t=83031 for the jig I built prior to replacing the inner passenger console on my teener. You'll definitely want to tie the jig into at least two planes to be sure you can place the new console in the correct place.

I obtained my replacement console from Auto Atlanta. Since I constructed my own upper/rear long replacement pieces, I had to massage the replacement console to correctly align the jig.

Best of luck!

Geoff


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r_towle
post Aug 11 2009, 09:16 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 11 2009, 02:20 AM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Aug 10 2009, 10:52 PM) *

QUOTE(JRust @ Aug 10 2009, 09:46 PM) *

Okay so I'd still like to see a how to thread.

Brad posted a pictorial a few years back. If you're lucky, he didn't delete the pictures

Might have been on Sean's old white car?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy


Found it in the tech articles but no pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Think in 3D

All you care about is the final location of the hole...the hole that holds the inner suspension bolt.

Now...measure forward to the firewall.
That gets you in position front to back.
Measure from one hole to the other...
That gets you at the right width.

Lastly you need to measure down from the longitudinal to the hole.

This gives you the three measurements that you need.

Rich
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 12 2009, 07:54 AM
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In my experience, if the long is in good shape the console only fits well in one place, therefore pretty hard to get it wrong.
Since your console is broken already use the left side for the measurements that Rich suggested.
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Shade Tree
post Aug 12 2009, 02:18 PM
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Hey Jamie, I do have that part but it sounds like it's too late. Also, as far as getting it centered properly. Old man Joe, who has a v8 914 about 3 blocks from my office, had a machinist make a jig to get the ear in the right place. He'd let you borrow it. He used it once while building his car and now it sits waiting for somebody else to have a rusty suspension ear. Anyway, you have my number. I can introduce you to Joe and you'll have the stuff you need to get it right without a struggle.
Rich.
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roadster fan
post Aug 12 2009, 09:07 PM
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Hey Jamie,

When the new part arrives it will be pretty obvious what you have to remove to make it work. Just measure the one that is in there in a couple of spots and record them. The new one will really only fit right where your damaged console is but just double check with the measurements.

You can drill out the spot welds if you want (about 50 on the engine bay side alone, more on the bottom) or just cut and grind the old one out. I would mark the old one's position with a sharpie and go to town.

You are lucky since you dont have to save the cooling tin shelf that goes around the ear. Is yours still there or already removed? That is the piece that gets in the way. Oh and the area around the motor mount on the long also, but that is easier than the engine tin shelf. Hope this helps, maybe you can do the tutorial and they will make it a classic! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Jim
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JRust
post Aug 13 2009, 12:46 AM
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QUOTE(Shade Tree @ Aug 12 2009, 01:18 PM) *

Hey Jamie, I do have that part but it sounds like it's too late. Also, as far as getting it centered properly. Old man Joe, who has a v8 914 about 3 blocks from my office, had a machinist make a jig to get the ear in the right place. He'd let you borrow it. He used it once while building his car and now it sits waiting for somebody else to have a rusty suspension ear. Anyway, you have my number. I can introduce you to Joe and you'll have the stuff you need to get it right without a struggle.
Rich.


Hey that sounds great Rich. I'll give you a call. I need to meet a couple of the guys you were telling me about down there. Talk to you soon
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JRust
post Aug 13 2009, 11:01 PM
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I got my new suspension ear today. Thanks GPR (HWGunner) for getting it out so quick. I only ordered it monday. You guys are quick (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

I am going to pull my drivetrain satuday. The get to grinding off the many spot welds. May do a mixture of drill/grind depending on location. I hope to get it out & prepped for the new one. I will see if I can get the jig Rich mentioned too. Then I just need to bribe on of my buddies to come by & (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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JRust
post Sep 15 2009, 02:43 PM
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Okay so an update is in order. Have my drivetrain all out & am ready to grind the welds. I've got EyeTrip (Cory) coming down saturday to weld the new one in place for me. Swapping him a transmission for welding for me. Love trade (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .

I am hoping to get it all ready & do the falling leaf tour next month. Had more stuff I wanted to do with the motor out but I'll settle for shifting my drivetrain back the 1" 1/2. That will help me get my firewall back a little more. The remote Electric pump will wait till winter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) . After the PNW Tranny clinic I just want to drive my 914 again. Also excited to see how much difference the "h" gear will make on the hwy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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JRust
post Sep 17 2009, 11:05 PM
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Okay so eI went to start grinding welds. Looks like there was some metal added below. There is a piece that overlaps where the replacement goes underneath? SO I am not sure how much to take off. Not sure if my picture will show it that well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


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914_teener
post Sep 17 2009, 11:25 PM
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This is a great post. Keep the pics coming. I was looking at this part yesterday. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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