what did you do to your 914 today Options

[Steve]

The end of another chapter. After 23 years of a wild ride, I pulled my euro 3.2 this week in preparation for the 3.6. I’ve been dragging my feet for two years doing this because the 3.2 runs so well. I still need to pull the wiring harness and brain. I also want to do another leak down with pictures before I put it up for sale. I am in no hurry to sell it.
Two years ago PMS resealed the engine, new chain ramps, all new seals including head gaskets and rebuilt the rockers, chain tensioners, etc. Over $4600 in parts and labor. The leak down was less than 5% so they didn’t recommend overhauling it at that time.

Is that cart jack thingy pretty handy for engines, or what? Used mine to pull my 1.8L off the engine stand and place it on my break-in/test stand without any assistance. Saved my back too!

I have the harbor freight 1000 pound lift table and a bendpak scissor lift. Super easy to remove the motor and trans and yes the lift table makes it easy to get an engine on an engine stand.

[Gatornapper]

Ran engine with new top-end rebuild again yesterday w/new EMPI 40 carbs w/no chokes or enricheners. 2056 now. 123ignition Dizzy.

Started easily & runs perfectly in 50 degree temps.

Loving my 914 more than ever.....

GN

[Freezin 914]

Messed around with some wheel choices…..
5 lug Fuchs
4 lug Fuchs
Panosports
….next to pick colors/finishes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Jett]

Continuing to strip the BB, getting ready for the body shop.

[sixnotfour]

Finally 2024... engine rehab or join the 3.2 Club...

[Steve]

Finally 2024... engine rehab or join the 3.2 Club...

The 3.2 is the best no hassle air cooled motor for these cars. With a Steve Wong chip they rev like webers and run forever. Too bad they’re so expensive.

[anderssj]

Replaced the crunchy old sun visors with a nice pair I'd been storing for years...





A small job, but a big change for me from kind of a philosophical perspective...I was raised to set aside the best stuff "for good." This year I finally realized this is as good as it gets. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Happy New Year's Eve Eve! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[sixnotfour]

Finally 2024... engine rehab or join the 3.2 Club...

The 3.2 is the best no hassle air cooled motor for these cars. With a Steve Wong chip they rev like webers and run forever. Too bad they’re so expensive.

I have a few,, just wasnt ready to go there.. I have triumph thottle body kit complete.. so thats , where i may go..

[Chaznaster]

Started disassembling the front end. Hubs off, drop links off, ball joint out on one side (remarkably easy with a borrowed socket and impact wrench). Then tried to pull the tie rod ends at the wheel end of the tie rods (where the ball is) and they just will not budge.

PB blaster, heat, BFH with a nut to not mushroom the threaded end but they are just not moving. Looked in this forum and some swear by a BFH on the side of the receiver on the knuckle with a second hammer to back it up on the other side but that was a bust as well. Probably not hitting it hard enough.

Letting is sit overnight after some more heat and PB. May borrow a tie rod end remover from my FLAPS or just buy one. They seem to be pretty cheap. Beating on the thing just makes me nervous.

[Shivers]

Started disassembling the front end. Hubs off, drop links off, ball joint out on one side (remarkably easy with a borrowed socket and impact wrench). Then tried to pull the tie rod ends at the wheel end of the tie rods (where the ball is) and they just will not budge.

PB blaster, heat, BFH with a nut to not mushroom the threaded end but they are just not moving. Looked in this forum and some swear by a BFH on the side of the receiver on the knuckle with a second hammer to back it up on the other side but that was a bust as well. Probably not hitting it hard enough.

Letting is sit overnight after some more heat and PB. May borrow a tie rod end remover from my FLAPS or just buy one. They seem to be pretty cheap. Beating on the thing just makes me nervous.

If I’m reading this right, you’ll need a pickle fork.

[914 Ranch]

Started thinking about the rear diffuser. This is not an easy task. If it works well I will be able to leave the rear wing off. The diffuser will go under the exhaust flanges and I am trying to tie it into the rear bumper.



This is copied from a drawing that I have which is incomplete and I have no way of giving credit to the artist. I chose the exhaust flanges to hang the front of the diffuser because they are accessible and it will make a good mounting point. The bottom of the diffuser is flat and the top edge is a compound curve. Cutting flanges on the curved top edge of the strakes for the attachments points will reinforce the bottom of the diffuser. All of this should be very interesting.

[Jett]

Continuing to strip the BB, getting ready for the body shop.

This maybe hard to believe but this rust was under the primer, also saw what appeared to be a couple of small spots of surface rust under the stock rear shock tower seam-sealer.

The trunk panel appears to have been sanded, and then primed… is it possible that the sanding was done at the factory to remove rust before painting?

[mmichalik]

I put in a new fire extinguisher in the Blue 2.0
Thanks Ben ( @mb911 ) for the mount.

[930cabman]

Continuing to strip the BB, getting ready for the body shop.

This maybe hard to believe but this rust was under the primer, also saw what appeared to be a couple of small spots of surface rust under the stock rear shock tower seam-sealer.

The trunk panel appears to have been sanded, and then primed… is it possible that the sanding was done at the factory to remove rust before painting?

My '75 example had the same sort of rusting, but it was in a spider pattern. The finish paint did not indicate any issue with the base. Glad I got down to bare and I'm sure you are too

[Jett]

Continuing to strip the BB, getting ready for the body shop.

This maybe hard to believe but this rust was under the primer, also saw what appeared to be a couple of small spots of surface rust under the stock rear shock tower seam-sealer.

The trunk panel appears to have been sanded, and then primed… is it possible that the sanding was done at the factory to remove rust before painting?

My '75 example had the same sort of rusting, but it was in a spider pattern. The finish paint did not indicate any issue with the base. Glad I got down to bare and I'm sure you are too

Exactly!

[Chaznaster]

Started disassembling the front end. Hubs off, drop links off, ball joint out on one side (remarkably easy with a borrowed socket and impact wrench). Then tried to pull the tie rod ends at the wheel end of the tie rods (where the ball is) and they just will not budge.

PB blaster, heat, BFH with a nut to not mushroom the threaded end but they are just not moving. Looked in this forum and some swear by a BFH on the side of the receiver on the knuckle with a second hammer to back it up on the other side but that was a bust as well. Probably not hitting it hard enough.

Letting is sit overnight after some more heat and PB. May borrow a tie rod end remover from my FLAPS or just buy one. They seem to be pretty cheap. Beating on the thing just makes me nervous.

If I’m reading this right, you’ll need a pickle fork.

Pickle fork for the win! Thank you!

[wonkipop]

new years day in north antarctica.
clear blue sky. 20 deg C.
got up early. put another 50 kms on it over a good hour or so.
near deserted roads. bliss. pulled some good acceleration runs up to about 65 mph on inner city dock lands roads and blew the cob webs out of the frighteningly powerful stock 1.8 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . no cameras. no camera cars.
got the engine toasty hot. love the sound of a 914 ticking exhaust when you pull up near home under a shady tree smelling the scent of warm engine oil.

[porschetub]

Started disassembling the front end. Hubs off, drop links off, ball joint out on one side (remarkably easy with a borrowed socket and impact wrench). Then tried to pull the tie rod ends at the wheel end of the tie rods (where the ball is) and they just will not budge.

PB blaster, heat, BFH with a nut to not mushroom the threaded end but they are just not moving. Looked in this forum and some swear by a BFH on the side of the receiver on the knuckle with a second hammer to back it up on the other side but that was a bust as well. Probably not hitting it hard enough.

Letting is sit overnight after some more heat and PB. May borrow a tie rod end remover from my FLAPS or just buy one. They seem to be pretty cheap. Beating on the thing just makes me nervous.

If I’m reading this right, you’ll need a pickle fork.

Yes they work good but destroy the grease boot but ok is you are replacing them , if not careful heat is your friend with the right tool will do it,cheers.

[porschetub]

Continuing to strip the BB, getting ready for the body shop.

This maybe hard to believe but this rust was under the primer, also saw what appeared to be a couple of small spots of surface rust under the stock rear shock tower seam-sealer.

The trunk panel appears to have been sanded, and then primed… is it possible that the sanding was done at the factory to remove rust before painting?

Interesting as my car has started to pop under the paint in the same pattern ,I seem to think I have that issue but not all of the car ,however my car was fully repainted back in the late 90's so maybe sloppy work and the fact the primers weren't waterproof like the epoxy around now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) .
Wonder if light media blast would remove the rust spots ? .

[mb911]

I put in a new fire extinguisher in the Blue 2.0
Thanks Ben ( @mb911 ) for the mount.

Very glad those worked. I am having 50 laser cut right now. Should be ready in a week or 2