Does fuel pump (injection) cut off if clogged?, YES i searched and read all 20 pages Options

[jsayre914]

Not if what Rich says, rising rate regulator. I don't know the Ljets. I think you would need to plug the regulator, not start the car, and watch the fuel pressure for a few minutes.

Rich????

..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[r_towle]

The regulator is pretty simple...this happened to me..it was the pump.
The pumps just die after a long life....
If you hold the flapper door open the pump will continue to run...
Car can be not running and the fuel pump will run fine till you let go of the door. No jumper needed.

You could put a fuel pressure gauge in place of the regulator and watch the gauge while the pump runs for 5 minutes straight...see if it looses pressure. Without the regulator expect higher than normal pressure, but it should be fine if all your lines are in good shape.

Rich

[r_towle]

Start reading here.

http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/


Rich

[jsayre914]

i am reading...thanks Rich.

test one. check voltage distributor plugs wires etc. good
test two. mechanical stuff, starts good just wont keep idle for too long.
test three. all hosses are brand new not kinked and secured well.
test four. key on flapper test. Perfect and holds at 37psi no problems

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) i thought i would have found some problem there???

test four a. crank engine you can hear pump running. good.

this is as far as i got so far.

The website seems to have many broken links. i really wish the links were working, cause i need to do more testing. great site (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Millerwelds]

I recently went through some fuel pump issues on my 2.0 DJet. Turned out the pump would go into bypass mode and circulate fuel right back to the tank bypassing the engine. The pump would always run but I would get no fuel pressure. I ended up taking the pump apart and removing the bypass parts so both the output line and bypass line were wide open and then I plugged the bypass line. Essentially turning it into a two port pump. Has worked great ever since. Without the bypass valve the pressure will drop off as soon as the pump is off as opposed to holding pressure for 20 minutes or so.

Almost everything I read said that the pump would leak once opened up but I was able to use a flat tip to 'crimp' the cap back on and it does not leak. I figured I was going to need a new pump so I might as well try to fix this one first.

Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[jsayre914]

i just tried the jumper test. + to coil and - to battery neg.

car ran perfect, no hesitating, or choking. i let it run 10min and goosed it now and then. perfect.

so now what does it all mean.

A) it could be a electrical short. dual resistor, wire, connector on relay needs bent?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) it could be the fuel pump. acting perfect now, just waiting till i get 1hour from home to act up again, or die forever.

C) (new filter) could have solved the problem??

i will play again little later.

[ericread]

Since you have now determined the pump is good, it's time to look at the control circuits.

Once again, here's a very, very good site to work through the control circuit issues:


http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/FPChecklist_frame.htm

[r_towle]

i just tried the jumper test. + to coil and - to battery neg.

car ran perfect, no hesitating, or choking. i let it run 10min and goosed it now and then. perfect.

so now what does it all mean.

A) it could be a electrical short. dual resistor, wire, connector on relay needs bent?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) it could be the fuel pump. acting perfect now, just waiting till i get 1hour from home to act up again, or die forever.

C) (new filter) could have solved the problem??

i will play again little later.

Tell me slower.
You jump the coil and the car runs fine?

Rich

[r_towle]

Here is what I would do.
remove the power lead from the positive side of the coil.
Attach a 12 vdc lightbulb, or a test light to the end of that line, and then ground out the other side.
When you turn the key to run, the light will light up.

Now, once you get that working, you can leave the key on and you wont ruin the coil.

Now, I would shake, pull and wiggle the wiring harness in the engine bay that goes from that lead to the relay board...keep at it.

If the light stays lit, back up...its the relay board...tap it...

If that is ok, wiggle the wiring harness that goes from the relay board into the front of the car..its right at the bottom of the firewall...wiggle it.

From there, the next place you can reach it is up under the dash where it comes out of the middle tunnel..wiggle it.

All the way back to the key.

From there, it comes back from the key to the battery.

Remove, clean and check the positive leads on the battery...one might be broken or loose.

Rich

[jsayre914]

i got frusterated last night, looking for the problem. I did not see your post

i will try again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

thank you.


(dont be mad) I did drive it to work today. She really runs great. No reason not to drive a bueatiful car on a bueatiful day, because of a loose wire and missing side marker lenses
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

If it ran great, maybe you fixed the problem?

Zach

[ericread]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[jsayre914]

If it ran great, maybe you fixed the problem?

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)
I meant to say. I hard wired the pump to the coil and that is how it is running perfect. I do not intend to keep it this way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[r_towle]

I am confused.
If this is a fuel pump issue or an ignition issue?

Fuel pump is powered by the "other" relay pack, not the funky looking one for the injectors.
I think that the other relay pack gets its power from via the injector relay pack...cant remember.

Find the 12vdc feed wire for the relay pack near the battery and run a wire right to the battery. It still gets its trigger from the key.

Rich

[jsayre914]

I am confused.
If this is a fuel pump issue or an ignition issue?

Fuel pump is powered by the "other" relay pack, not the funky looking one for the injectors.
I think that the other relay pack gets its power from via the injector relay pack...cant remember.

Find the 12vdc feed wire for the relay pack near the battery and run a wire right to the battery. It still gets its trigger from the key.

Rich

sorry, i am still learning.

if it was a ignition issue, few days ago when it was stalling out on the highway, the engine was still firing, it was not getting any gas. if it were a ignition issue wouldnt it have died completly. wouldnt it also illuminate the light on the panel??

just asking.

[underthetire]

ooooh, i can answer this one, lost my pump on the bay bridge. Ignition, tach drops right away, bounces around. Fuel pump, still sees RPM, so the tach just kinda keeps up with the motor. Either way, no lights on the dash until the motor actually completely stops.

[jsayre914]

ooooh, i can answer this one, lost my pump on the bay bridge. Ignition, tach drops right away, bounces around. Fuel pump, still sees RPM, so the tach just kinda keeps up with the motor. Either way, no lights on the dash until the motor actually completely stops.

how did you get off the bridge. (i also have those thoughts on really long bridges)??

my last fuel pump went up on the highway, super traffic jam construction. only one lane open and nowhere to pull off. pump died. It totally sucked.

[underthetire]

ooooh, i can answer this one, lost my pump on the bay bridge. Ignition, tach drops right away, bounces around. Fuel pump, still sees RPM, so the tach just kinda keeps up with the motor. Either way, no lights on the dash until the motor actually completely stops.

how did you get off the bridge. (i also have those thoughts on really long bridges)??

my last fuel pump went up on the highway, super traffic jam construction. only one lane open and nowhere to pull off. pump died. It totally sucked.

Sort of lucky I was at the first SF exit and was able to push it to the downhill off ramp. Then across a busy street. Thought I was going to stroke out, but I did it. Fixed it, drove it home. No shoulder at all on the bay bridge, in fact I think i'm lucky it didn't fall down on me when I was there.

[r_towle]

So, are you home again?
Do you have a multi meter?

Check the middle connector on the FI relay pack under the battery.
Look for 12VDC when the key is on.
that one, I think, is what feeds the second relay unit its main power.
The second one is where the fuel pump relay resides.

The trigger for the fuel pump relay is activated by the AFM flapper door.

Rich