Trying to start my carbureted 1.7, Electrical help Options

[pastormacman]

Issue: There's no power going to the coil/fuel pump when I turn the key. (you can skip the history and jump down to the ALL CAPS and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) to see more about the issue)

History: 16 years ago, this was a running 1.7 fuel injected '73 in Bakersfield, CA. I bought it wrecked in the front end, (hood crunched a little, passenger fender dented) A friend straightened the trunk, cut off and welded a replacement fender on and we put on a replacement hood. I had it painted and new tires on it. It was my daily driver for a couple of years.

14 years ago, I got a new daily driver and this sat for a few months. Unbeknownst to me, a critter made it's home around one of the cylinders with mud and leaves. I went to drive it and the cylinder overheated and seized the engine. I bought new cylinders and took it to a friend to replace. Upon removing the engine he discovered that my block was cracked. I found a rebuilt 1.7 down in Los Angeles and bought it to replace the old engine. My mechanic friend was going to work on it in his spare time for me.

I had always had trouble with the fuel injection, so I saw this as an opportunity to remove it and replace it with carbs. So he installed the carbs and after he got the engine back in the car, he discovered his dog had eaten the wiring harness (From the relay plate to the alternator/starter) At that point, life happened... kids grew up, I worked a lot and the car sat in that condition in one of the bays in his shop for 10 years.

Three years ago, my sons are now teenagers, and I decided I wanted to finish it up and get it out of my friends way. He had kind grown resentful of it being there. I brought it home and put it on jack stands in my garage. I ordered a new wiring harness and tried to finish the car to get it started for my kids to drive. I discovered that through life I had developed a strong case of claustrophobia and it's difficult to get under the car for me. So it has sat for another three years.

So I have a new friend who rebuilds VW Bugs who is now helping me.We've gotten all the electrical hooked back up. Removed the gas tank and flushed it out. replaced all the fuel lines, and filters. And got a new battery. Which brings me to the present...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ISSUE: WHEN WE TURN THE KEY, THERE'S NO POWER TO THE COIL OR FUEL PUMP.

Since we replaced the fuel injection with carburetors, we no longer have the ECU in the car. (in fact, I no longer have the ECU or any of the fuel injection parts anymore, they are long gone at my other friends garage) Not sure if that was a mistake, I thought I didn't need it anymore since the FI was gone.

My VW friend is not familiar enough with 914 electrical to find the issue. Could I have a bad relay? I see that there is a port for the white wires from the ECU to connect to the relay panel. Is there a part I need there in place of the ECU wiring? Is this a common issue with a carb replacement? Other electrical things work, (headlights, and whatnot) and if I continue to turn the key, the starter starts to crank, but no power to the coil/fuel pump.

Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post.

[pastormacman]

With the key OFF, there is no power to the fuses for the low beams and high beams. When I turn the key ON, I get power to the low beam and hight beam fuses.

Not very many lights actually come on, but I think that's probably old bulbs.

[Spoke]

With the key OFF, there is no power to the fuses for the low beams and high beams. When I turn the key ON, I get power to the low beam and hight beam fuses.

Not very many lights actually come on, but I think that's probably old bulbs.

The high/low beams do not go through the ignition switch and will turn on/off independently of the ignition switch. Check for brake lights and L and R turnsignals with key ON. Don't do 4-way flashers as they bypass the ignition switch.

[pastormacman]

OK, so here's my update for today.

I can't get brake lights or signal lights to come on with the key on or off.

However, I did notice that I get hot on both sides of fuse #8 when the key is ON but nothing when the key is OFF. So the ignition switch is doing SOMETHING. But I never get hot to fuse #9 no matter what, key on or off.

Also, side question. I'm trying to understand the wiring diagrams better but I have a question. Most wires show where they are coming and going. But some wires seem to just end at a number and I don't know what that number means. I included a pic of a blow up of the wiring diagram and highlighted a few of the numbers that I'm talking about. What do those numbers mean and where are those wires going?

[Spoke]

Those numbers go to somewhere else on the schematic. There will be a mating number somewhere else.

[Spoke]

Fuse 8 is powered by pin X on the ignition switch (D). Fuse 9 and relay board/ignition coil are powered by pin 15 on the ignition switch.

Notice pin 50 on the ignition switch which goes to the starter.

Therefore the starter, ignition coil (fuse 9), and fuse 8 are all controlled separately by the ignition switch.

Pin P (going to electrical column 30) on the ignition switch powers the Euro function for the turnsignals when the vehicle is off.

The issue is still pointing at the ignition switch. The only test left is to find the wires coming from ignition switch in the steering column and find and measure the voltage on the wire from pin 15 to isolate the ignition switch.

[Tom]

Pastormacman,
It looks like you are using the electrical wiring diagrams from the Haynes manual. They are somewhat harder to read/use that some color larger ones.
Here are the ones I used when I had mine. Depending on your year of 914, there may be some changes. With a little work, you can figure these out and make corrections on the larger prints. I made a copy from my computer and put it on a disc and took that to Staples and had 11" x 17" color copies made. So much easier to follow the lines. The number you see correspond to the numbers at the bottom of the print. Hope these come thru OK. I may have to use two posts to get them all posted.
Tom

[Tom]

More

[pastormacman]

Pastormacman,
It looks like you are using the electrical wiring diagrams from the Haynes manual. They are somewhat harder to read/use that some color larger ones.
Here are the ones I used when I had mine. Depending on your year of 914, there may be some changes. With a little work, you can figure these out and make corrections on the larger prints. I made a copy from my computer and put it on a disc and took that to Staples and had 11" x 17" color copies made. So much easier to follow the lines. The number you see correspond to the numbers at the bottom of the print. Hope these come thru OK. I may have to use two posts to get them all posted.
Tom

Thank you very much. I think that is going to be very helpful.

[pastormacman]

Fuse 8 is powered by pin X on the ignition switch (D). Fuse 9 and relay board/ignition coil are powered by pin 15 on the ignition switch.

Notice pin 50 on the ignition switch which goes to the starter.

Therefore the starter, ignition coil (fuse 9), and fuse 8 are all controlled separately by the ignition switch.

Pin P (going to electrical column 30) on the ignition switch powers the Euro function for the turnsignals when the vehicle is off.

The issue is still pointing at the ignition switch. The only test left is to find the wires coming from ignition switch in the steering column and find and measure the voltage on the wire from pin 15 to isolate the ignition switch.

Thanks for the info. I'll get to checking the wiring in the steering column.

[pastormacman]

THANK YOU!

I want to thank everyone who helped me with this issue. My new ignition switch came in and I installed it. I turned the key and my dashboard lit up and the fuel pump kicked on. I'm now getting power to fuse #9.

Now I just need to get my car to start. But my electrical is all working now thanks to all of your help.

[pastormacman]

THE FACE I MADE WHEN MY CAR STARTED!



After installing a new fuel pump and rebuilding one of the carburetors (never done that before) I was getting gas into all four barrels and spark to all plugs.

Thank you all for your help and advice. You helped me through what I couldn't figure out.