My sound deadining projeck Options

[LotusJoe]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) so what you guys are telling me is that what i think is the floor is really not the floor, its like a parrelell dimension, and if i start at it with a putty knife i will discover the truth


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) whoa


thats deep



thanks for the info, now i got a bigger job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

In looking at the pictures, it looks like the tar was previously removed and the bare floor was repainted. Tar does not rust.

Having recently gone through the whole removal process. I replaced the tar with Lizard Skin



So far I'm very happy with the results. I also had the paint shop spray the entire bottom and fender wells. Sprayed the fire wall with the ceramic coating.
http://www.lizardskin.com/

[SirAndy]

In looking at the pictures, it looks like the tar was previously removed and the bare floor was repainted. Tar does not rust.

Nope, still there. Looks like dirt and rusted water puddled around the edges, accounting for the rust color.

But the tar is still there in his picture ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Andy

[jsayre914]

I have been really busy, recently, no time to work. I did get outside last night for a few hours, and BOY WAS IT FUN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) scraping tar with a torch in one hand and a citronella candle to chase off the mesquitos, with my shop light bringing every bug within 2 miles to come see my hard work.


but on the bright side i am halfway untarred (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) and the fllors look a lot better than i was thinking they would look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[jsayre914]

this is where i stopped..

[jpnovak]

You are using the slow method.

Here is my method. Stripped the entire floors in about 1.5 hours.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911...method-yet.html

[markb]

Even easier: dry ice.

Drop it on there, stand back & watch the undercoating come off the bottom of the car, and the tar break into pieces. sww914 did this with Cliff Braun's car & it worked great.

[VaccaRabite]

I don't think Joe wants the undercoating off the bottom of his car.
Otherwise, that sure beats the way I did it.

Zach

[jsayre914]

Tar is gone
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Now what is my next step. I guess i need to wire brush everything, then vacume, then i am ready for the por-15 ?? am i skipping any steps??

And i am having a problem removing the pedal cluster. I got the accelerator out no problem, then the 2 bottom nuts on the cluster no problem. BUT, the 2 bolts on the firewall are soooo rusted, they are no longer 13mm, in fact they arent even octagonal shaped anymore (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

how do i get it out of there, the bolts are also recessed with the lip of the cluster stopping any chance of getting a tool in there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[jsayre914]

THE UGLY (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

The bolts that point forwards are, I think, welded to the cluster. You take them off by getting under the car, removing the panel that keeps debris off your steering rack, and then removing the nuts off from under the car.

this will also unbolt your mastercylinder from the car. But it should have enough tension from the hard lbrake lines to stay in place and not fall on you.

Wire wheel out all the rust.

If you use the POR, use all three products (marine clean, metal ready, and then the POR) or else the POR will not stick right and eventually flake off. you CAN NOT simply paint it on rusted metal. next time you come over I will show you an experiment that I did simply painting on the POR.

When I painted on the POR for my floor pans, it was TOTALLY solid except for one little patch where it lifted. I just made sure to get extra paint in there when I painted the cabin. The rest of it was very hard, and very firmly attached.

Zach

[jsayre914]

The bolts that point forwards are, I think, welded to the cluster. You take them off by getting under the car,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) Thanks, that little info could of saved me 1/2 hour and scrapeed knuckles

Information is key (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[charliew]

If that car has been up north it's whole life it looks great in the floors. You can't get the floors too clean so do the best you can or the rust will be back. I would do the rear window first so it doesn't get wet after the new interior coating has been done.

I've used a lot of por15 and have decided even if I had to brush it on I would use epoxy two part primer and a good industrual enamel on it after cleaning it with the por 15 cleaning and rust curing products, I think it's a better coating. The por 15 almost seems as hard as powdercoat but it sometimes doesn't stick near as well as epoxy primer and nothing sticks to it good after its cured except the por light blue intercoat primer ( called tiecoat primer) and that makes it even more expensive. The shelf life of por 15 is not good so don't buy more than you need if you do go that way.

[VaccaRabite]

The bolts that point forwards are, I think, welded to the cluster. You take them off by getting under the car,

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) Thanks, that little info could of saved me 1/2 hour and scrapeed knuckles

Information is key (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

Lol. Should have called me when you got stuck. I was actually home and might have even answered the phone if I could have hobbled over to where ever it was fast enough. :-) We have all been there.

[jsayre914]

never enough time to work on the car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) but i will get it done. I started wire brushing the metal today, and it is almost as much fun as removing the tar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

[realred914]

ditch that POR 15 crap and invest in some good automotive two part epoxy primer. a nice two part epoxy is tougher than por 15 and can be top coated much eisier. you also need to replace the seam sealers that are along the perimter to teh floor (seals to the rockers0 else water will get in there and rust the edges of the floor out then teh floor falls out! 9unless the rocker fail first) seam sealer should be applied after the epoxy paint then top coated again with paint for best protection.


seal sealer is oft over looked, but highly important to use. make sure you use it, even if you settle for the inferior por 15 crap, at least use seal sealer, brush on or tube type, your choice

[realred914]

If that car has been up north it's whole life it looks great in the floors. You can't get the floors too clean so do the best you can or the rust will be back. I would do the rear window first so it doesn't get wet after the new interior coating has been done.

I've used a lot of por15 and have decided even if I had to brush it on I would use epoxy two part primer and a good industrual enamel on it after cleaning it with the por 15 cleaning and rust curing products, I think it's a better coating. The por 15 almost seems as hard as powdercoat but it sometimes doesn't stick near as well as epoxy primer and nothing sticks to it good after its cured except the por light blue intercoat primer ( called tiecoat primer) and that makes it even more expensive. The shelf life of por 15 is not good so don't buy more than you need if you do go that way.

ditto that on por 15, it can flack off specially smooth wire welled surfaces. the epoxy is superior in adhesion, top coatability even clean up is easier. por 15 just makes a mess. they have a good sales gimick, just paint over rust, but who really belives that is the right way? that is what sell their product to, folks that believe painting over rust is the way to go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

get to know your local real autobody paint and supply store, look for Dupont or PPG brands, (and a few others) name brand real atuomotive finishing stuff.

your doing a nice complete job judging form teh photos,dont compromise thsi project with crappy hobby paint that only exists becuase they ahve been able to sell this paint over rust gimick

you will also want to scuff that shinny metal you brushed with some course sand paper to give the coating a better surface.

be very carefull with acid treatments some paint will NOT cure if there is an acid caot under them. some acid catings must be washed off, which may be difficult in side teh car (acidic rinse water may get into places you can clean out.

what ever you do do NOT buy any of Eastwoods paint products, they make the cheapest crap and sell it for high prices. here rust converter coating is a nightmare of rust, it actually rpomotes rust under the top coat, I have done tests, it is worst then bare metal exposed to salt water, no kindding, pure junk. one more reasont to shop at a real auto body shop supply store and also smart to look up Duponts or PPgs website call and talk to there tech guys they really know their stuff, real chemicals, real paints, real cars

[Bleyseng]

If that car has been up north it's whole life it looks great in the floors. You can't get the floors too clean so do the best you can or the rust will be back. I would do the rear window first so it doesn't get wet after the new interior coating has been done.

I've used a lot of por15 and have decided even if I had to brush it on I would use epoxy two part primer and a good industrual enamel on it after cleaning it with the por 15 cleaning and rust curing products, I think it's a better coating. The por 15 almost seems as hard as powdercoat but it sometimes doesn't stick near as well as epoxy primer and nothing sticks to it good after its cured except the por light blue intercoat primer ( called tiecoat primer) and that makes it even more expensive. The shelf life of por 15 is not good so don't buy more than you need if you do go that way.

ditto that on por 15, it can flack off specially smooth wire welled surfaces. the epoxy is superior in adhesion, top coatability even clean up is easier. por 15 just makes a mess. they have a good sales gimick, just paint over rust, but who really belives that is the right way? that is what sell their product to, folks that believe painting over rust is the way to go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

get to know your local real autobody paint and supply store, look for Dupont or PPG brands, (and a few others) name brand real atuomotive finishing stuff.

your doing a nice complete job judging form teh photos,dont compromise thsi project with crappy hobby paint that only exists becuase they ahve been able to sell this paint over rust gimick

you will also want to scuff that shinny metal you brushed with some course sand paper to give the coating a better surface.

be very carefull with acid treatments some paint will NOT cure if there is an acid caot under them. some acid catings must be washed off, which may be difficult in side teh car (acidic rinse water may get into places you can clean out.

what ever you do do NOT buy any of Eastwoods paint products, they make the cheapest crap and sell it for high prices. here rust converter coating is a nightmare of rust, it actually rpomotes rust under the top coat, I have done tests, it is worst then bare metal exposed to salt water, no kindding, pure junk. one more reasont to shop at a real auto body shop supply store and also smart to look up Duponts or PPgs website call and talk to there tech guys they really know their stuff, real chemicals, real paints, real cars

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I have been using epoxy primers and they work great and no moisture will go thru em...POR 15 has pealed off on me before..get the real stuff epoxy primer.

[VaccaRabite]

If you want to get the epoxy, they sell the Nason branded paints at Broadway in Red Lion and will have what you need. There is another job shop closer to you on George St in York city that I have used. They have everything but are $$$. But, the epoxy ismeant to be shot through a gun, and I don't know if it can be brushed or rolled.

[jsayre914]

dont be mad guys, i already got the por-15 crap. i spent my $$ and i want to learn the hard way. I plan to do all three steps, then i am putting second skin products on top. My fate is already sealed. I always learn the hard way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

i do believe it will be great. not perfect, but great!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[charliew]

The only way you will like the por15 with a top coat is to sand the por15 or bite the bullet and also buy the tiecoat blue primer to link the por 15 to the top coat. Believe me we have been there before. When the second skin comes up in sheets just remember this thread.