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> My sound deadining projeck
jsayre914
post Sep 6 2010, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(charliew @ Sep 6 2010, 05:01 PM) *

The only way you will like the por15 with a top coat is to sand the por15 or bite the bullet and also buy the tiecoat blue primer to link the por 15 to the top coat. Believe me we have been there before. When the second skin comes up in sheets just remember this thread.

stupid question:

do i have to top coat the por-15. every sq inch of surface will be coverd in second skin or carpet or both. there will be no visable por showing.

(obviously i have not yet read the instructions yet) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 6 2010, 06:23 PM
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No, you don't.

You an POR15 it and just put the sound deadening stuff right on top of it after it dries.

Follow the instructions on the P15 and it will be just fine.

Zach
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scotty b
post Sep 23 2010, 07:41 PM
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rust free you say ?
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 24 2010, 06:16 AM
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I stopped over at Joes the other day to drop off a can of seam sealer, and the car looked pretty good. Sad, sitting on ramps and all, but good. I drove my 914 over so that he could have a little inspiration, but the jerk was picking up his girls from school, so I missed him. The nerve! Putting family before old cars.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Zach
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jsayre914
post Sep 28 2010, 04:02 PM
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No time for pics today, but i am ready for paint. Marine clean and metal ready done. Finally!!!

I will put first coat tonight if all goes well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I REALLY miss driving (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)
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jsayre914
post Sep 28 2010, 08:15 PM
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progress (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)


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championgt1
post Sep 28 2010, 09:19 PM
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Man that looks really nice!
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dlee6204
post Sep 28 2010, 10:43 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) It looks awesome.
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silver74insocal
post Sep 28 2010, 10:53 PM
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pretty as a peach!! ya i used the damplifier pro and it made a huge difference. used brake cleaner on all the tar clean up...worked great..but kills a few brain cells..good luck bro
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scotty b
post Sep 29 2010, 07:01 AM
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rust free you say ?
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Now take your sound deadening pad and cut it into strips that fit in between the channels only. Leave the channels open, that is what f'ed up most of these floor pans. You get the amps together? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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jsayre914
post Sep 29 2010, 07:14 AM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Sep 29 2010, 09:01 AM) *

You get the amps together? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

YUP! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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sean_v8_914
post Sep 29 2010, 07:16 AM
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I have done many inner fire walls with dyna mat or Fat mat (cheaper but good imitation). when combined with re-sealing the back window it makes for a nice quiet 914. I would like a ride in a 914 where a spray-n product was used.
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 29 2010, 07:23 AM
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alot of new metal under this one.
since I coated all the metal, I did not take scotty b's advise but his technique will work. most aproach sound deadening from an insulation point of view. scotty's technique will stop the panel from resonating to the frequency of the road noise. it is not required to cover every square inch but it is critical to have 100% surface contact with the deadening material to the metal


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sean_v8_914
post Sep 29 2010, 07:27 AM
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two layers or one layer of rattle trap extreme


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sean_v8_914
post Sep 29 2010, 07:29 AM
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very important to seal the rear window very well. this a huge source of cabin noise

...cant find the floor pics
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sean_v8_914
post Sep 29 2010, 07:30 AM
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WARNING!!! POR 15 DOES NOT STICK WELL TO CLEAN METAL. if applied to clean metal, it must be etched first
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 29 2010, 07:59 AM
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the metal got well etched from the wire wheeling.
also, if you follow the directions on the Por15 prep products, you end up with a little flash rust. At least when I did this to my car in 2005, the directions indicated not to remove that rust, but to paint over it to give more tooth to the paint. I know that Joe used all the products, so I am sure he will have a good finish.

Zach
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scotty b
post Sep 29 2010, 08:05 AM
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rust free you say ?
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Sean is referring to a CHEMICAL etching that is required for POR to adhere properly. It is no different than an etch primer used on the exterior prior to priming. Physical etching only will not allow the paint to adhere properly. Chemical etching allows the paint to " bond " properly with the metal. All a physical etch does is gives the paint a rough surface to grab to. In time that bond is much more likely to fail.
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 29 2010, 09:00 AM
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Isn't Metal Ready an etching product? its one of the pre-steps for por-15

Zach
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strawman
post Sep 29 2010, 09:20 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Sep 29 2010, 08:00 AM) *

Isn't Metal Ready an etching product? its one of the pre-steps for por-15


Yes, Metal Ready is an etcher. I use Marine Clean and Metal Ready prior to epoxy primering.

Geoff
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