The Doc's tranny waggin' Options

[Dr Evil]

According to the scriptures, for a 76-77 WUR:
- PN 911 606 105 03 and 04
- Bosch PN 0438140017 and 033
- Test vac; 520-546 mBar (390-410mmHg)

- Atmospheric pressure should have max Bar of 2.7-3.1 bar
- At vac of 390-410mmHg pressure should be same as atmospheric – 2.7-3.1bar
- At high idle of 1800rpm pressure should be 3.4-3.8bar

And here is the chart for temp/pressure.

[Dr Evil]

Based on all the above, there are two likely culprits:

- Check valve set too high, so I need to shim it correctly to bring the pressure down a bit. I think this is a good first step in that the cold and warm running pressure were both high. I need to get more data tonight.

- WUR is shot due to it obstructing and causing pressures to be too high. However, it is garbage in garbage out if the pressure in is too high, maybe. More to read up on.....

[Dr Evil]

But wait, there is more! If this is a 77, the parameters change a lot (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Two different PN:
- 911 606 105 05
- 911 606 105 06

At atmospheric pressure, cold - 2.7-3.1 bar
At 390-410mmHg, cold - 3.2-3.6bar (this is a change, but is still lower than what I saw)

Then the manual lists "system pressure", which the above were a measurement of, as 4.5-5.2 bar...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) It does not stipulate warm or not for the 77, but 74-75 have same value and it does stipulate warm. The 76 lists warm running system pressure as 2.7-3.1 bar, way lower than the 74, 75, and 77.

I rechecked my notes, I actually got 4.7 bar and this puts me in the correct zone for the 77 WUR. I will amend the previous posts with the wrong value lest a CIS guru find this later, revive the thread, correct me and thus publicly spank me for my mistake (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Oh goody, this may be a system from an 83 SC......and back to the manual.

[Dr Evil]

Manual stops at 81 and 80 and later had O2 sensors on them. I think this is, latest, as 78-79.

Guess I will wait until tonight to check the part numbers.

[scotty b]

Pretty sure the engine the CIS came off of was an 83 SC

[Dr Evil]

Looking at other late model CIS systems and it appears that this is not likely one of them as it is missing a few of the things that they had on them. Really, a parts check will give the best answer, though. I hope to get the Dist and WUR numbers tonight and then can go from there. However, it does appear that pressure is good to go for most every year. So, I will try unplugging the WUR heater power and see if it starts better. Also, I have a list of tests to do with the engine running.....if I can start it. The majority of tests, other than idle set, happen with engine off and only the fuel pump running.

[Dr Evil]

So, I read through all the iterations from 73.5 to 83 and, unless Scooter missed giving me some electrical stuff with this setup, like a brain box and a bunch of switches and a sensor for the tail pipe, I do not have an 80 or newer CIS with Lambda. That is good.

Another thing I find is that the 76-77 have a typo in its parameters for warm pressure. All systems have the same parameters. So, keeping it simple, I will rule out the fuel as an issue if these are followed.

Starting to think air leaks may be a bigger problem, but not sure why it was smelling and acting like it was flooding. Stay tuned, I hope to find out tonight.....by like midnight.

[Dr Evil]

And, because I have enough bus issues to go around, there is a nice problem that has me a bit perplexed. Someone at the Canadian clinic had suggestions and a lot of experience....but I got drunk and forgot it all. I think it was Canada. Ya.

Anyway....

The teeth of the torque converter rub on the bell housing during start up on one section (ring, ring, ring, ring), but after a few minutes it goes away. I have pulled it and reassembled it 2x and all looked fine. Why/how is this happening.

[balljoint]

I remember you having that conversation.

At some point in the evening you were shouting.

And losing the argument quite badly.



You were talking to a lobster.

[Dr Evil]

Well, tonight was fun. Got a bunch or erroneous readings and could not figure it out.... the whole test kit is shit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Cant win.

[rick 918-S]

First read the plugs.

If rich check the fuel pump pressure.

Check the AAR to be sure it's functioning. Remove it from the bus put 12V to it and time it as per the manual.

If it checks out test the wiring to the AAR. This is a very important step as a faulty AAR will not allow you to even set the idle and throws off the dizzy when the engine warms up. Some guys start dicking with the dizzy and really mess things up.

Next if your fuel pump pressure is set properly check the WUR. Unplug the heater and set the cold pressure. If yours is not the easily adjustable kind go the pick and pull and search through the Volvo turbo cars and some vintage Mercedes. and find one that has the adjustable plunger. If you find one swap the top case with your WUR guts and start adjusting. If you can't find one pull yours apart and remove the plunger and drill and tap it for an adjustment bolt. This will allow you to easily raise and lower the plunger without dismantling the WUR every time.

Check for vacuum leaks. Oh, and check for vacuum leaks. Did I say to check for vacuum leaks?


Once you have these things checked and set the turn in the idle screw about 3/4 turn out or so start the engine and see if it will idle. If not start adjusting the idle screw (air screw) until it will.

THEN start adjusting the dizzy. You will be surprised how far out of whack that thing is once you get it set.

[VaccaRabite]

At least you can find the time to work on your projects.
Zach

[Dr Evil]

Hey Rick,

Those are my basic thoughts. The plugs will not be much help due to the running that it got with messed up valve train, etc. The pump seemed to be flowing fine with static pressure. I was hoping to check running pressure, but not sure I can trust it.

At this point, the AAR, or other air leak seems most likely as pressure was good and it runs like a car with lots of air leaking. It will not stay running lower than 1800 or so, which is high idle.

Next, I will try to mess with air intake and such. I wander if my plenum sprung a leak.

[scotty b]

At least you can find the time to work on your projects.
Zach

[Dr Evil]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[Dr Evil]

I am debating what to do. I am being worked like a dog, 24 hours in the last 2 days and 12 more tomorrow. One day off on Mon, 12hrs on Tues, then off for Hershey. I am thinking I may take another stab at the bus tomorrow night and part of Mon. BUT, I now have a 914 and want to make sure it is in better shape when it is driven there. My local 912 friend will be driving it if the bus is up. If not, I will drive the 914. The 914 has a bad bearing that I can hear. Awful whine. I can fix it in a day....but that is one less day. I need the bus to haul cores (that I sorely need, and hope to find and buy) back to my house. Dilemma. I need to con, er, ask Scotty to transport cores for me to his place, or mine, or Sacks.

[VaccaRabite]

Drive the 914.
I'll store the cores, and will probably bring the Highlander.
Scott needs to drive the 944.

Zach

[Dr Evil]

OK, I am sourcing all the bushings for my shifting, and will rebuild the trans tomorrow and Wed. I wish I could have gotten a short shift kit, but no one has a used one and a new one will not ship from the parts people until too late. Sigh. I may have to pick one up at the swap and install it there in the lot.

[Dr Evil]

I am in need of a functioning bus. So, I am considering putting carbs on it for the time being and I can go through the CIS later and check welds, etc. A working bus will be a huge benefit as I wont have to tow it, and it will haul a lot of shit.

Does this sound reasonable? Anybody have a set of carbs and manifolds to lend me? Should I just buy? Should I start a post in the main forum begging for a set of carbs/manifolds?

I hate this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I also need to definitively fix the drain pan on the stupid tranny. Time to throw money at it as time runs out!