Gotta do pushrod tube seals, any gotchas? |
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Gotta do pushrod tube seals, any gotchas? |
underthetire |
Mar 1 2010, 08:07 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Well, my little drip turned in to aunt flow after installing the header. I'm sure I must have moved a tube or two by my careful installation (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) .
looks pretty easy to change these. Any gotchas ? And what sealant if any is the preferred. |
detoxcowboy |
Mar 1 2010, 08:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,294 Joined: 30-January 08 Member No.: 8,642 Region Association: Africa |
Viton Seals are the prefered, I have an extra set of the factory ones that came in the engine seal kit if you need them $10 shipped.. pm me if your interested..
021-109-345A-M213 Inner Push Rod Tube Seal (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), Each [More Info] Brand: D P H Push Rod Tube Seals [view in catalog] $0.50 021-109-349B-M213 Outer Push Rod Tube Seal (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), Each [More Info] Brand: D P H Push Rod Tube Seals [view in catalog] $1.25 PEL-021-109-345-AV Viton, Inner, Push Rod Tube Seal (21.3mm) (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 1976 (E912), Each [More Info] Push Rod Tube Seals [view in catalog] $1.45 PEL-021-109-349-BV Viton, Outer, Push Rod Tube Seal (25.5mm) (8 per car, sold individually), 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 1976 (912E), Each [More Info] Push Rod Tube Seals [view in catalog] $1.50 |
saigon71 |
Mar 1 2010, 10:55 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,000 Joined: 1-June 09 From: Dillsburg, PA Member No.: 10,428 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Well, my little drip turned in to aunt flow after installing the header. I'm sure I must have moved a tube or two by my careful installation (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) . looks pretty easy to change these. Any gotchas ? And what sealant if any is the preferred. With the engine in the car - degreasing was the worst part for me, I just threw my clothes out after finishing. The job itself wasn't too bad. I went with the Viton seals and just applied a very light coating of oil to the seals to ease installation. I did not use sealant. No leaks now! Just make sure the spring clips that hold the tubes in are seated correctly. Good luck. |
underthetire |
Mar 1 2010, 11:26 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Well, my little drip turned in to aunt flow after installing the header. I'm sure I must have moved a tube or two by my careful installation (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) . looks pretty easy to change these. Any gotchas ? And what sealant if any is the preferred. With the engine in the car - degreasing was the worst part for me, I just threw my clothes out after finishing. The job itself wasn't too bad. I went with the Viton seals and just applied a very light coating of oil to the seals to ease installation. I did not use sealant. No leaks now! Just make sure the spring clips that hold the tubes in are seated correctly. Good luck. Thanks, I have a gasket kit that came with them. I'm not trying to stop all the leaks, just get the trail of oil stopped. Building my new motor as soon as I get this thing driving again. |
URY914 |
Mar 2 2010, 07:39 AM
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#5
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I built the lightest 914 in the history of mankind. Group: Members Posts: 120,968 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Jacksonville, FL Member No.: 222 Region Association: None |
Get the area as clean as you can before you start and keep everything clean as you go.
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ericread |
Mar 2 2010, 12:35 PM
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#6
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The Viper Blue 914 Group: Members Posts: 2,177 Joined: 7-December 07 From: Irvine, CA (The OC) Member No.: 8,432 Region Association: Southern California |
Since you're going to be under the car getting all greasy, why don't you check your oil cooler seals? I changed them at the same time I changed the pushrod tube seals without too much difficulty.
Eric |
underthetire |
Mar 2 2010, 12:43 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
Since you're going to be under the car getting all greasy, why don't you check your oil cooler seals? I changed them at the same time I changed the pushrod tube seals without too much difficulty. Eric Probably should, but what would i have to do next weekend then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
bam914 |
Mar 2 2010, 01:42 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 334 Joined: 23-November 03 From: Atlanta, Ga Member No.: 1,378 Region Association: None |
Make sure that when you put the pushrods back in that they are seated in the lifter correctly.
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mtndawg |
Mar 2 2010, 02:21 PM
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#9
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Member Group: Members Posts: 414 Joined: 26-January 09 From: Granite Bay, Ca Member No.: 9,985 Region Association: None |
As long as this is being discussed...is it possible (and smart) to check the torque on the head bolts to ensure they're correct while doing the seals?
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underthetire |
Mar 2 2010, 02:29 PM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
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Shade Tree |
Mar 2 2010, 03:00 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 260 Joined: 18-December 08 From: Springfield, Oregon Member No.: 9,860 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
As long as this is being discussed...is it possible (and smart) to check the torque on the head bolts to ensure they're correct while doing the seals? Think you'd have to pull the upper tin to get to the top ones. A real PIA in the car. Are you guys saying the push rod tube seals can be replaced without loosening the heads? |
underthetire |
Mar 2 2010, 03:04 PM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California |
As long as this is being discussed...is it possible (and smart) to check the torque on the head bolts to ensure they're correct while doing the seals? Think you'd have to pull the upper tin to get to the top ones. A real PIA in the car. Are you guys saying the push rod tube seals can be replaced without loosening the heads? Yes, that much I know. Not like a type1. They pull out through the head. |
ericread |
Mar 2 2010, 03:15 PM
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#13
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The Viper Blue 914 Group: Members Posts: 2,177 Joined: 7-December 07 From: Irvine, CA (The OC) Member No.: 8,432 Region Association: Southern California |
As long as this is being discussed...is it possible (and smart) to check the torque on the head bolts to ensure they're correct while doing the seals? Think you'd have to pull the upper tin to get to the top ones. A real PIA in the car. Are you guys saying the push rod tube seals can be replaced without loosening the heads? Yes, that much I know. Not like a type1. They pull out through the head. You'll remove the rocker assemblies so that the tubes can slide out. Make sure you carefully mark/label each rocker and be sure to replace it on the same bolt holes from which it came. |
Shade Tree |
Mar 2 2010, 03:20 PM
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#14
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Member Group: Members Posts: 260 Joined: 18-December 08 From: Springfield, Oregon Member No.: 9,860 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
As long as this is being discussed...is it possible (and smart) to check the torque on the head bolts to ensure they're correct while doing the seals? Think you'd have to pull the upper tin to get to the top ones. A real PIA in the car. Are you guys saying the push rod tube seals can be replaced without loosening the heads? Yes, that much I know. Not like a type1. They pull out through the head. You'll remove the rocker assemblies so that the tubes can slide out. Make sure you carefully mark/label each rocker and be sure to replace it on the same bolt holes from which it came. In the past I'd only done this to type 1's. Thanks for the info!!! |
benalishhero |
Mar 2 2010, 03:46 PM
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#15
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Member Group: Members Posts: 313 Joined: 28-November 07 From: Portland, Maine Member No.: 8,384 Region Association: North East States |
Definately make sure the retainer clips are in correctly or they will lathe the pushrods in half.
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Dave_Darling |
Mar 2 2010, 04:42 PM
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#16
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Make sure you have each cylinder at TDC when you put its rocker arms and rocker shaft back on. If not, the valve springs will not even let the rocker shaft seat against the head when you get to the 10 lb-ft torque spec for the rocker shaft retaining nuts.
Getting the pushrods seated correctly in the lifter cups was always a bit of a pain. I have been known to stick the short arm of an L-shaped Allen wrench down the tube so I can lever up the inner end of the pushrod. A dab of grease on the end of the rod can help it stay put in the lifter cup, but make sure to use an oil-soluble grease (most break-in lubes are fine) so you don't clog up the hole through the pushrod. Make sure the bores where the seals go are clean and smooth. No sealer needed, just lube the seals. And yes, make sure you get the bent wire that retains the tubes seated correctly. The inner parts of it should sit against the shoulders of the tubes, pushing them inward toward the cam. If the inner bends of the wire stick down the tube instead, you'll wind up with notched pushrods and lovely aluminum shavings in your sump and/or filter. --DD |
IronHillRestorations |
Mar 3 2010, 09:41 AM
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#17
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,724 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
Look for lateral grooves, scores, scratches, or gouges in the PRT bores. If you have deep ugly gouges or grooves you may have a permanent leaker.
Jake Raby uses and recommends coating the push rod tube seals with a Locktite sealant that also acts like a lubricant when installing. I've used it on one engine with no leaks. Can't remember off the top of my head what the locktite product number is, sorry. |
Porsche Rescue |
Mar 3 2010, 10:04 AM
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#18
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Saving and Enjoying Old Porsches Group: Members Posts: 2,978 Joined: 31-December 02 From: Bend, Oregon Member No.: 64 Region Association: None |
I have found that removing and seating the tubes is best done by wrapping a hose clamp, screw down, then tighten it around the tube. Grab the screw with vice grips and use your hand or a hammer on the vice grips. Breaks loose the old tubes and seats the new.
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Borderline |
Mar 3 2010, 10:20 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 720 Joined: 8-February 05 From: San Juan Bautista, CA Member No.: 3,577 Region Association: Northern California |
Look for lateral grooves, scores, scratches, or gouges in the PRT bores. If you have deep ugly gouges or grooves you may have a permanent leaker. Jake Raby uses and recommends coating the push rod tube seals with a Locktite sealant that also acts like a lubricant when installing. I've used it on one engine with no leaks. Can't remember off the top of my head what the locktite product number is, sorry. I remember Jake posting that too. I can't remember the sealant either. But he did say that you could omit the wire retainer if you used the right sealant. I'll be putting my new engine together one of these days and wish I could remember the sealant. |
type47 |
Mar 3 2010, 11:04 AM
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#20
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Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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