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| jimkelly |
May 8 2010, 06:10 AM
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#1
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
i'd prefer studs so i can just thrown the wheel/tire onto the rotor without the whole orientation dance of hands a feet : )
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| 914Sixer |
May 8 2010, 06:21 AM
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,497 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region
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I have been considering doing it and using 911 allow nuts. The only draw back I can see is you have to know what wheels you are going to use. Stock alloy wheels will require longer studs than the factory steel wheels. To use a steel wheel you would need the steel wheel nuts like the 914-6 or 911 uses. Not sure if the black plastic lug bolt covers will cover the nut though. I will check on that part this morning.
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| jimkelly |
May 8 2010, 06:43 AM
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#3
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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| benalishhero |
May 8 2010, 08:04 AM
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#4
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 313 Joined: 28-November 07 From: Portland, Maine Member No.: 8,384 Region Association: North East States |
I made my own studs on my car with A/M nuts. They work great and were a fraction of the cost of stock bolts.
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| DanT |
May 8 2010, 09:18 AM
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#5
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Going back to the Dark Side! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,300 Joined: 4-October 04 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 2,880 Region Association: None |
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| McMark |
May 8 2010, 09:21 AM
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#6
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,180 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Uh-oh, here comes the thread in stud debate. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)
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| DanT |
May 8 2010, 09:31 AM
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#7
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Going back to the Dark Side! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,300 Joined: 4-October 04 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 2,880 Region Association: None |
no debate (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
| DanT |
May 8 2010, 09:44 AM
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#8
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Going back to the Dark Side! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,300 Joined: 4-October 04 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 2,880 Region Association: None |
they work quite well when you choose good quality and install them correctly
these pics show BBS racing screw in studs...tough to really see since 1/2" and 3/4" spacers were still inplace over the studs...these were 80mm, so I could run large spacers and 3 different sets of wheels/tires. Attached image(s)
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| Chris Pincetich |
May 8 2010, 09:44 AM
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#9
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B-) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
I've used racing studs for 2+ years, they have the most thread engagement. The ones with the hex bolt inside the end do not screw as far in. When I was swapping wheels for every AX race, they made a huge difference (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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| root |
May 8 2010, 10:00 AM
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#10
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Two Wheeled Type4 Completed! ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 849 Joined: 5-May 04 From: Sterling, VA Member No.: 2,026 Region Association: None |
Seems like alot of effort just to avoid the 'studly' wheel installation required with standard lug bolts. But if you do convert to 'studs' the question will be... How many 'studs' do you really have 16 or 17 (if you include the driver)? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) |
| realred914 |
May 8 2010, 10:28 AM
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#11
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,086 Joined: 1-April 10 From: california Member No.: 11,541 Region Association: None |
how oft do you change wheels? is it realy wroth th eeffort to save labour????
guess I am too used to wheel bolts rather than studs. my whole life since a kid we had cars with bolts |
| DanT |
May 8 2010, 11:04 AM
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#12
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Going back to the Dark Side! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,300 Joined: 4-October 04 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 2,880 Region Association: None |
If you change wheels with a different seat, you can just get a new set of lug nuts instead of the cost of complete new set of lug bolts.
I will have a set of Rivs for street with 60* cone seat and Fuchs with the ball seat for the competition tires... just need 16 nuts instead of a complete set of lug bolts (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) If you are AXing or DE/TT you change or at least remove your wheels often and the studs make it much more efficient, especially at an event. |
| Bartlett 914 |
May 8 2010, 11:50 AM
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#13
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,218 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
I use wheel hangers when changing my wheels. Makes a world of difference. I also use 2 of them when doing a valve adjustment. with 2, I can put a bar between them and use the bar to lock a wheel while I rotate the other wheel. I just screw one in hand tight and place it at 12 o'clock. Hang the wheel and install the bolt. Using 2 makes this even easier. I sell them 15 each 25 for 2.
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| ChrisFoley |
May 8 2010, 12:05 PM
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#14
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I am Tangerine Racing ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,030 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None
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If you have hubcentric wheels here's another solution for the rear.
![]() ![]() The wheels stay on without lug nuts. ![]() |
| jimkelly |
May 8 2010, 12:44 PM
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#15
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Delaware USA ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,969 Joined: 5-August 04 From: Delaware, USA Member No.: 2,460 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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| Tom_T |
May 8 2010, 01:37 PM
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#16
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TMI.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,321 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California
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i'd prefer studs so i can just thrown the wheel/tire onto the rotor without the whole orientation dance of hands a feet : ) But Jim, that's half the charm of owning a 914! ... btw - you forgot use of forehead in your dance! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
| Chris Hamilton |
May 8 2010, 04:01 PM
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#17
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 611 Joined: 7-March 06 From: Berkeley, CA Member No.: 5,687 |
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| charliew |
May 8 2010, 05:06 PM
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#18
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
Chris are those rings a press fit in the rotor or are they trapped in between the rotor and hub?
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| JimN73 |
May 8 2010, 05:06 PM
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#19
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 535 Joined: 6-October 07 From: Gig Harbor Member No.: 8,192 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I was going to use studs. I found that using 50 mm on the front and 65 in the back - because the stud threads into the hub behind the rotor and not into the rotor as the front does. I could use 911 alloy lug nuts and get a finished look. My spare wheel is a steel wheel and is only 1/8 or so I'd need a set of open lug nuts for the spare - I cut down some 911 alloys for this.
Then I got a set of EMPI 8 spoke for autocross and the plan went out the window. The EMPIs are only half as thick as the Fuchs so I would need set of open lug nuts like the ones JimKelly shows in an earlier post for those. Go to be too much work and too many pieces. My workaround is to screw two studs a few turns into the hub, mount the wheel and put two bolts in, remove the studs and add the second two bolts. Doesn't take long and I don't have 32 lug nuts laying around at the autocross. |
| scotty b |
May 8 2010, 05:10 PM
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#20
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rust free you say ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Chuck Norris just tells his wheels to stay on the car...and they do.............no nuts or studs needed
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