i'd prefer studs so i can just thrown the wheel/tire onto the rotor without the whole orientation dance of hands a feet : )

I have been considering doing it and using 911 allow nuts. The only draw back I can see is you have to know what wheels you are going to use. Stock alloy wheels will require longer studs than the factory steel wheels. To use a steel wheel you would need the steel wheel nuts like the 914-6 or 911 uses. Not sure if the black plastic lug bolt covers will cover the nut though. I will check on that part this morning.

for 4 lug fuchs, i would need something like this.

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/lugnuts.php

I made my own studs on my car with A/M nuts. They work great and were a fraction of the cost of stock bolts.

Check here....studs and nuts
Several styles to choose from..

Uh-oh, here comes the thread in stud debate.

no debate

they work quite well when you choose good quality and install them correctly

these pics show BBS racing screw in studs...tough to really see since 1/2" and 3/4" spacers were still inplace over the studs...these were 80mm, so I could run large spacers and 3 different sets of wheels/tires.

I've used racing studs for 2+ years, they have the most thread engagement. The ones with the hex bolt inside the end do not screw as far in. When I was swapping wheels for every AX race, they made a huge difference

Seems like alot of effort just to avoid the 'studly' wheel installation required
with standard lug bolts. But if you do convert to 'studs' the question will be...
How many 'studs' do you really have 16 or 17 (if you include the driver)?

how oft do you change wheels? is it realy wroth th eeffort to save labour????

guess I am too used to wheel bolts rather than studs. my whole life since a kid we had cars with bolts

If you change wheels with a different seat, you can just get a new set of lug nuts instead of the cost of complete new set of lug bolts.

I will have a set of Rivs for street with 60* cone seat and Fuchs with the ball seat for the competition tires...
just need 16 nuts instead of a complete set of lug bolts
If you are AXing or DE/TT you change or at least remove your wheels often and the studs make it much more efficient, especially at an event.

I use wheel hangers when changing my wheels. Makes a world of difference. I also use 2 of them when doing a valve adjustment. with 2, I can put a bar between them and use the bar to lock a wheel while I rotate the other wheel. I just screw one in hand tight and place it at 12 o'clock. Hang the wheel and install the bolt. Using 2 makes this even easier. I sell them 15 each 25 for 2.

If you have hubcentric wheels here's another solution for the rear.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The wheels stay on without lug nuts.
Click to view attachment

But Jim, that's half the charm of owning a 914!
... btw - you forgot use of forehead in your dance!

studs:

http://www.hamiltonracing.net/photos/red914/CIMG0111.jpg
http://www.hamiltonracing.net/photos/red914/CIMG0124.jpg

Chris are those rings a press fit in the rotor or are they trapped in between the rotor and hub?

I was going to use studs. I found that using 50 mm on the front and 65 in the back - because the stud threads into the hub behind the rotor and not into the rotor as the front does. I could use 911 alloy lug nuts and get a finished look. My spare wheel is a steel wheel and is only 1/8 or so I'd need a set of open lug nuts for the spare - I cut down some 911 alloys for this.

Then I got a set of EMPI 8 spoke for autocross and the plan went out the window. The EMPIs are only half as thick as the Fuchs so I would need set of open lug nuts like the ones JimKelly shows in an earlier post for those.

Go to be too much work and too many pieces. My workaround is to screw two studs a few turns into the hub, mount the wheel and put two bolts in, remove the studs and add the second two bolts. Doesn't take long and I don't have 32 lug nuts laying around at the autocross.

Chuck Norris just tells his wheels to stay on the car...and they do.............no nuts or studs needed

Light press fit in the rotor center bore, snug fit in the wheel.

What is the weight?

A couple of ounces

Are 2 L fuchs hubcentric ???

Jack / jaxdream

P.S. Racer Chris - great to see that you made steering hockey pucks out of Delrin , too late for me , but others should benefit!!

http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/Categories

* correction >> seems i need M14 x 1.5 x 65mm for 4 lug fuchs.
edit - seems like 80mm stud is needed with 4 lug fuch to leave some thread showing.

* correction > and M14 spherical nuts.
edit - seems like nut must have R14 ball seat, not R13.

oh yeah - do i double nut to install them and would i use some version of loctite to hold them in place?

jim

I believe you need 14x1.5

when I installed mine on the Puttputt, I used loctite red and double nutted them to get them in...
worked great. They never moved in over 3 years of lots of on and off with different tire/wheel combinations.

My question as well. What keeps the lugs from backing out when you take the wheels off?

torque and loctite

http://www.race-studs.com/servlet/Categories

For the 2.0 liter Fuchs, would I use the Porsche nuts or the spherical VW/Audi nuts?

i sure hope it does not matter as i ordered the black oxide nuts and the
M14x1.5 ACS Race Studs - 65mm - this morning - i have wanted studs for a long time.

m14x1.5 ball seat nut should all be the same fit - i hope.

jim

those should work fine Jim....Spherical/ball seat I believe are interchangeable terms for the same thing.
As long as they are not cone seat you will be good.

But Chuck Norris is the ultimate stud!

rav - seems like i should have ordered the porsche nuts

the lug is about 24mm wide and the nut is about 25mm wide

the lug seats perfectly into my 4 lug fuch but the nut does not.

according to the website - the porsche nut has a R14 ball seat ??

the one i ordered has a R13 ball seat ??

jim

that said - i can not wait to get these studs installed : )

R13 seat ball

Thanks for the info. I ordered the Porsche nuts, I'll let you know how they fit.

Just to be sure I'd take a Sharpie and totally black out the seat on the wheel, and then torque a nut on and see where you are getting contact. If it's a broad area you are OK, but if it shows a thin line it's a no workie.

FWIW, they do look correct from the pic.

Ideally, the stud length/wheel/spacer combo will allow some threads to poke through the top of the open lug nut.

I JUST sold the wheels I owned that accept ball -seat lugs, PM me if you need a set that I bought from Pelican.

regarding threads showing past nut - the pic aboev is not mounted to car, just nut threaded on stud and dropped into wheel laying on ground - but i agree.

jim

ok - i installed one set of studs and lugs - i black sharpeed on ball seat on the wheel - the lug to the left was the installed one ( see shiny leading edge ) vs never installed nut. my left nut is shiny : )

I don't know Jim, that doesn't look right to me, there should be more contact area. I'd try one of the stock lug bolts for a comparison.

yeah - i should have commented.

it does not look right to me either - and it is not right for sure.

i have a set of the porsche nuts coming.

intially i thougth the R13 ball seat was too big - now i realize it was too small.

i was hoping to find the answer here...
http://www.aewheel.com/eagle_alloy_wheels.cfm?id=53

jim

--

rcvd the porsche nuts today.

seems like 65mm studs are good for front but longer would be better for rear.

jim

did you use any spacers Jim?
I thought that there should be a bit more than that available with the 65s...
I may just oder some 80s after seeing your pics, since I plan on using some spacers.

i did not use any spacers.

Unless you plan on adding spacers it looks like you are fine. The lugs stick out past the nuts.

thanks - while all 16 studs protrude beyond the nut - only on the front is there any thread on the stud showing. on the rear the nut has a thread or two not grabbin anything because the very end of the stud is not threaded.

now i got the tri color bling going on - silver gold and black, bling bling : )

gotta get me a torque wrench.

I went back and looked at your picture of a stud before you installed it to see what you mean.
A general rule of thumb is the length of thread engagement of the nut should be greater than the diameter of the bolt. So on 14x1.5 if you have at least 10 threads working, thats 15mm of thread engagement.
With the proper torque you'll be fine.

If it was mine I would get longer studs on the rear.

so what did you finally decided to do Jim?