oil change, How To Options

[cpfoster]

This may be a simplistic question, but this is my first 914 a '73 2.0L. I just got it recently. My question has to do with the oil change, specifically the strainer which is to be removed and cleaned, which I did. The problem is when I replaced it it leaks oil. I know it's only supposed to be torqued to 8 ft lbs or so which I did, I think the problem has to do with the gasket. My oil change gasket kit came with two gaskets for the strainer. Am I supposed to use both? I just fitted one gasket on to the strainer when replacing it, was I supposed to double up, or push one of the gaskets up into the lip where it seals with the case? What's the proper procedure here?

Also, now I'm going to get more oil, I had used SAE 30W but I'd rather use a multi-grade, what is working for most here?

Thanks!

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[avidfanjpl]

A lot here use different sealers on the gaskets on top and bottom of strainer. I use german stuff Curil T version from Pelican. That is the only way to keep it from leaking that I have found.

Just using gaskets alone seems to have it leak.

And yes, you can ruin the engine if you torque it too much. 8 sounds right, but look up that gasket product. They make 2 kinds. Others use various varnishy kinds of gasket glue. Smells like glue.

Don't use permatex. That stuff can get into the engine. Usually people put too much on.

Good luck!

John

[smg914]

You need to use both gaskets.
Install everything in the following order.

gasket
--------
strainer
--------
gasket
--------
cover plate

[detoxcowboy]

9lbs. torque per factory srvice manual,

[realred914]

You need to use both gaskets.
Install everything in the following order.

gasket
--------
strainer
--------
gasket
--------
cover plate

Yes!! you need two new paper gaskets, one goes on each side of the strainer. I suspect you had two , but the upper one stuck to the engine case when you drained the oil and did not see it.

i would not recomend sealers, as they will be a clean up issue each time you change oil. I have NEVER needed any sealer on my 914 motors ever on this cover plate all with no drips. if you still leak with new gaskets, then maybe the plate is warped? also there should be a one use only crushable metal washer under the big nut.
note I have been able to reuse the gaskets once or twice, but generally i replace them to be sure of no leaks.


NEVER EVER FRICKIN EVER double up on the torque for the large oil plate nut, never ever do that . the piece that it screws onto is mounted on a fragile aluminum casting that cantilevers out on the case, you snap it, adn you must pull the entire engine apart to repair. NEVER EXCEED RECOMMENED TORQUE on this part ever!!!!

as a new owner, you should be aware of teh SM rated motor oils and the lack of zinc (ZDDP) in them. the lack of ZDDP in new motor oils may ruin your cam. you need to use a speciality oil such as Brad Penn, or use an additve to regular oils A common additve is STP red bottle four cylinder oil treatment, add the pint bottle to each oil change in teh 914. do a search on zddp and oil here or on the web. your 914 NEEDS the higher zinc content.


dont forget these cars need frequent (6000 mile0 valve checks/adjustments. when you do them, you will want a new valve cover gasket each time, and some gasket glue to place on the cover side only.


good luck with your fine new car!!!

p[ost some photos please!!!!

have fun

[KELTY360]

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[cpfoster]

Thanks a lot for the assistance guys -- I read all the replies carefully and I'm heading back to the auto parts store. This car really is a blast to drive! This is my sixth Porsche and I currently have a 944 Turbo S also, I've had a couple early 911s and this thing is more fun. I just picked up some turbo tie rod ends from your fellow member here, Rich fr the Pacific NW, and I'm going to find some factory sway bars too. Will try to build my profile out this weekend, tried to upload pics but exceeded allowable pixels so need figure this out!

Chris

[Lennies914]

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I just did my oil change this morning and wasn't aware of the torque spec.. I guess I got lucky and diidn't break anything. As for the oil, I was going to go with the Royal Purple but my FLAPS only carried 15-40 and I wanted to use some 20-50 due to our extremely hot summers. I ended up purchasing Lucas racing synthetic 20-50. Does this still require the zinc additive?

Hopefully this is not a hijack, but it is the same topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Tom_T]

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.... yeah, what they said, oh and ....

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[realred914]

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I just did my oil change this morning and wasn't aware of the torque spec.. I guess I got lucky and diidn't break anything. As for the oil, I was going to go with the Royal Purple but my FLAPS only carried 15-40 and I wanted to use some 20-50 due to our extremely hot summers. I ended up purchasing Lucas racing synthetic 20-50. Does this still require the zinc additive?

Hopefully this is not a hijack, but it is the same topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

look on the bottle, there probably is an API logo (circular star logo) the API (American Petroleum Institute) rate motor oils, that manufactures of automobiles then can specify, the current rating sold is "SM" if it is rated as an SM oil it for sure has TOO LITTLE ZDDP. nearly all oils commonly sold is rated SM now. (note this is the S rating system, in the old days I remember SC oils, as they advance the oil type, the letter after the S is advanced (ie SC, SD, SE etc.....)

however just becuase does not have the API rating it does not mean it is high enough in zddp, I suggested two option in prior post, there are several more, Valvoline makes a Four stroke motorcycle oil that is high in ZDDP ( it is called V twin oil, supposindly designed for high temp air cooled engines)(at least it currenlty is high in zddp, but watch out, bikes are now getting catalysts, and catalysts are the driving force in the removal of Zinc, the oil may change at any time and gain the evil SM rating!)

deisel engine oils have been long known to have high amounts of antiwear additives such as zddp, however new deisel oils now have reduced zddp levels, the deisel engine oil rating system is different (not S based) it uses the letter C and a number, I forget teh current number, but the current number is lower zinc that required for the 914 engine. so diesel is off the list too(unless it is some really old stock)

Id always carry a spare bottle of STP red additve in the trunk , just in case you need an oil change or emergency top off, and cant get the special oil for some reason, at least you have a back up plan!

[Lennies914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I just did my oil change this morning and wasn't aware of the torque spec.. I guess I got lucky and diidn't break anything. As for the oil, I was going to go with the Royal Purple but my FLAPS only carried 15-40 and I wanted to use some 20-50 due to our extremely hot summers. I ended up purchasing Lucas racing synthetic 20-50. Does this still require the zinc additive?

Hopefully this is not a hijack, but it is the same topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

look on the bottle, there probably is an API logo (circular star logo) the API (American Petroleum Institute) rate motor oils, that manufactures of automobiles then can specify, the current rating sold is "SM" if it is rated as an SM oil it for sure has TOO LITTLE ZDDP. nearly all oils commonly sold is rated SM now. (note this is the S rating system, in the old days I remember SC oils, as they advance the oil type, the letter after the S is advanced (ie SC, SD, SE etc.....)

however just becuase does not have the API rating it does not mean it is high enough in zddp, I suggested two option in prior post, there are several more, Valvoline makes a Four stroke motorcycle oil that is high in ZDDP ( it is called V twin oil, supposindly designed for high temp air cooled engines)(at least it currenlty is high in zddp, but watch out, bikes are now getting catalysts, and catalysts are the driving force in the removal of Zinc, the oil may change at any time and gain the evil SM rating!)

deisel engine oils have been long known to have high amounts of antiwear additives such as zddp, however new deisel oils now have reduced zddp levels, the deisel engine oil rating system is different (not S based) it uses the letter C and a number, I forget teh current number, but the current number is lower zinc that required for the 914 engine. so diesel is off the list too(unless it is some really old stock)

Id always carry a spare bottle of STP red additve in the trunk , just in case you need an oil change or emergency top off, and cant get the special oil for some reason, at least you have a back up plan!

Thanks for the info. I'm reading the bottle now and there is no logo, but it states that it "exceeds performance levels of API SM/SL/SJ/CF". I'm going to check out their web site. Looks like I may be putting in some STP.
Thanks again.

[realred914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I just did my oil change this morning and wasn't aware of the torque spec.. I guess I got lucky and diidn't break anything. As for the oil, I was going to go with the Royal Purple but my FLAPS only carried 15-40 and I wanted to use some 20-50 due to our extremely hot summers. I ended up purchasing Lucas racing synthetic 20-50. Does this still require the zinc additive?

Hopefully this is not a hijack, but it is the same topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

look on the bottle, there probably is an API logo (circular star logo) the API (American Petroleum Institute) rate motor oils, that manufactures of automobiles then can specify, the current rating sold is "SM" if it is rated as an SM oil it for sure has TOO LITTLE ZDDP. nearly all oils commonly sold is rated SM now. (note this is the S rating system, in the old days I remember SC oils, as they advance the oil type, the letter after the S is advanced (ie SC, SD, SE etc.....)

however just becuase does not have the API rating it does not mean it is high enough in zddp, I suggested two option in prior post, there are several more, Valvoline makes a Four stroke motorcycle oil that is high in ZDDP ( it is called V twin oil, supposindly designed for high temp air cooled engines)(at least it currenlty is high in zddp, but watch out, bikes are now getting catalysts, and catalysts are the driving force in the removal of Zinc, the oil may change at any time and gain the evil SM rating!)

deisel engine oils have been long known to have high amounts of antiwear additives such as zddp, however new deisel oils now have reduced zddp levels, the deisel engine oil rating system is different (not S based) it uses the letter C and a number, I forget teh current number, but the current number is lower zinc that required for the 914 engine. so diesel is off the list too(unless it is some really old stock)

Id always carry a spare bottle of STP red additve in the trunk , just in case you need an oil change or emergency top off, and cant get the special oil for some reason, at least you have a back up plan!

Thanks for the info. I'm reading the bottle now and there is no logo, but it states that it "exceeds performance levels of API SM/SL/SJ/CF". I'm going to check out their web site. Looks like I may be putting in some STP.
Thanks again.

ok you got an oil that has not been thru the API rating process, 9no seal) however they claim to produce it to meet these specification. the SM specification that it meets or exceeds pretty much mean you should assume it does NOT have enough ZDDP. add a 15 oz bottle of STP (red bottle) you might have to drain off a little engine oil (use the plug, not the cover plate for this) firrst before adding the stp, that will set up fine until the next regularly schedualed change.

have fun!!!