Paint question, to prime or not to prime |
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Paint question, to prime or not to prime |
krazykonrad |
Apr 8 2011, 10:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,128 Joined: 21-February 06 From: Canton, GA Member No.: 5,610 |
I've got some surface rust in the hell hole area. Thank God nothing structural! I'm planning on taking it down to bare metal and re-spraying with the correct color code from Tower Paints in a spray can. I'm sure I should probably prime first, but what primer should I use?
Thanks! Konrad |
TC 914-8 |
Apr 8 2011, 11:05 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 812 Joined: 23-May 08 From: Sequim, WA Member No.: 9,090 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
before priming, I used some stuff my father-in-law gave me. Looks like milk of magnesia, turned the metal, rust and anything it touched purple. Then primer it, then paint. Never had a problem in that area since.
Any auto parts or welding shop should know what I'm talking about. I'm too lazy to go to the garage to see if I have any left or the name of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) good luck T |
pktzygt |
Apr 9 2011, 04:01 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 328 Joined: 20-March 07 From: Chesapeake, VA Member No.: 7,611 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
before priming, I used some stuff my father-in-law gave me. Looks like milk of magnesia, turned the metal, rust and anything it touched purple. Then primer it, then paint. Never had a problem in that area since. Any auto parts or welding shop should know what I'm talking about. I'm too lazy to go to the garage to see if I have any left or the name of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) good luck T I think Mar-Hyde is the brand you're trying to think of. There are alot of rust converters out there, but there needs to be rust to stick to. If you remove every last bit of rust, just prime. |
r_towle |
Apr 9 2011, 07:30 AM
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#4
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,591 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
yes prime, and use epoxy primer in that area.
Clean with baking soda and water mix first to neutralize the acid that is down there...then dry with an air compressor/heatgun/vacuum cleaner/leaf blower. Then wash the area with prep all, or some paint prep solvent. Then epoxy primer the area in question...that stuff is as tough as nails. Talk with your paint guy to make sure the epoxy primer is compatible with the top coat....you may need to spray a sealer in between the two coats to ensure adhesion. I fell in love with epoxy primer when I tried to take it off a 30 year old project I bought....that stuff is rock hard. Rich |
scotty b |
Apr 9 2011, 07:58 AM
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#5
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
before priming, I used some stuff my father-in-law gave me. Looks like milk of magnesia, turned the metal, rust and anything it touched purple. Then primer it, then paint. Never had a problem in that area since. Any auto parts or welding shop should know what I'm talking about. I'm too lazy to go to the garage to see if I have any left or the name of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) good luck T I think Mar-Hyde is the brand you're trying to think of. There are alot of rust converters out there, but there needs to be rust to stick to. If you remove every last bit of rust, just prime. They need rust to stick to because they aren't any good. In my experience the typical FLAPs " converters " are complete crap. Get the metal bare, blasting prefferably then find a buddy that has some Ospho, or if you have more rust work to do go buy a gallon for your self. A little goes a long way. Spray the area with the ospho then treat as directed on the bottle. It needs to set up then get a wash to neutralize the acid. That can then be primed and painted, all by spray bomb if you desire. If you can't find actual OSPHO, there are sevral other companies that make a similar product. I know, and have also used, one made by Purple Power. The main ting you want is for the main ingredient to be phosphoric acid. The cheapo FLAP crap typically has,little to no Phsophoric in them. Be very careful with OSPHO as it is an acid. This is why it is effective, as an acid it actually etches into the bare metal and creates a real bond and protective barrier. Use it with good ventilation !! The other thing I like about OSPHO is that it is as thin as water and can be sprayed very easily into the longs and other hard to reach areas. |
krazykonrad |
Apr 10 2011, 03:51 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,128 Joined: 21-February 06 From: Canton, GA Member No.: 5,610 |
Thanks for y'all's help! I'll post some pics as I'm doing it, I mean while I'm priming and painting the hell hole.
Konrad (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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