 Rear arm adjust. Torque needed! +dumb bolt problem, can't find in book or search :( |
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| mskala |
 May 15 2004, 05:51 PM
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#1
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R  Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None 
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Hey,
I just was taking out shims in back for first time, and I need two answers. I used to know the torque those three bolts go to, I can't find any record of it in the books or search here. Also, I'm down to 2mm of shim on right side, and the bolts 'seem' to bottom out before squeezing the parts together. Could that be because of corrosion from never having bolt up there that far in 30 years? Or do I need to put a few mm of washers on the bolts? Maybe both? I have to get the thing back together. Over a year ago I put in the plastic bushings, didn't have any problem like this although I didn't take any shims out then. Thanks a lot! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) |
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| ChrisFoley |
May 15 2004, 08:30 PM
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#2
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,937 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None
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Run a tap up into the holes to clear out any rust at the top of the threads. Then use some Never-seize on the bolts.
I think the torque is around 30-35 lb-ft. |
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| ejm |
May 15 2004, 08:36 PM
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#3
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,695 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
From torque table in repair manual: "Control arm bearing on body" 50 ftlbs
If the caps are missing the holes are sure to be full of crud. Chase out the threads or add a washer, whatever it takes to get the bolts tight. |
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| mskala |
May 15 2004, 08:39 PM
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#4
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None
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Thanks gentlemen, will do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_flagge24.gif)
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| John |
May 15 2004, 08:42 PM
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#5
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
From the factory manuals, (#5 Rear Axle)
Page 0.2-2/1 Tightening Torques..... Control arm bearing on body Hex Bolt M10x55 Grade 10 6.9mkp (50 ft.lbs.) There you have it. BTW, Racer Cris is right. Carefully run a tap up the hole and clean the threads out. You can also pack the hole with grease when done. Those tapped holes are actually pipes that run up and used to have plastic plugs on top. If the threads are clean, and you have long enough bolts, you can actually through-bolt them and put nuts on top to make sure they don't back off. |
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| John |
May 15 2004, 08:43 PM
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#6
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
I really need to type faster....
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| mskala |
May 16 2004, 10:25 AM
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#7
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R Group: Members Posts: 1,925 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 79 Region Association: None
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My car has always had the caps, but even so the 'unused' part
of the threads rusted a bunch. With a bolt out, one hole still took about ten pokes of a screwdriver to break through the layer of crud. I don't have a long enough tap to work the holes, for now I will be using as much washers as the shims I took out. |
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