Hey,
I just was taking out shims in back for first time, and I need two answers.

I used to know the torque those three bolts go to, I can't find any record
of it in the books or search here.

Also, I'm down to 2mm of shim on right side, and the bolts 'seem' to bottom
out before squeezing the parts together. Could that be because of
corrosion from never having bolt up there that far in 30 years? Or do I
need to put a few mm of washers on the bolts? Maybe both? I have to
get the thing back together.

Over a year ago I put in the plastic bushings, didn't have any problem like
this although I didn't take any shims out then.

Thanks a lot!

Run a tap up into the holes to clear out any rust at the top of the threads. Then use some Never-seize on the bolts.
I think the torque is around 30-35 lb-ft.

From torque table in repair manual: "Control arm bearing on body" 50 ftlbs

If the caps are missing the holes are sure to be full of crud. Chase out the threads or add a washer, whatever it takes to get the bolts tight.

Thanks gentlemen, will do

From the factory manuals, (#5 Rear Axle)

Page 0.2-2/1 Tightening Torques.....

Control arm bearing on body

Hex Bolt

M10x55 Grade 10

6.9mkp (50 ft.lbs.)


There you have it.

BTW, Racer Cris is right. Carefully run a tap up the hole and clean the threads out. You can also pack the hole with grease when done. Those tapped holes are actually pipes that run up and used to have plastic plugs on top. If the threads are clean, and you have long enough bolts, you can actually through-bolt them and put nuts on top to make sure they don't back off.

I really need to type faster....

My car has always had the caps, but even so the 'unused' part
of the threads rusted a bunch. With a bolt out, one hole still
took about ten pokes of a screwdriver to break through the
layer of crud. I don't have a long enough tap to work the
holes, for now I will be using as much washers as the shims I
took out.