Rear deck lid latch Options

[partwerks]

I know the top part of the rear deck lid latch is adjustable. My deck lid will latch but if I shorten it up any more then it won't catch. Currently the nut on the back where it turns only has about 1/3 of the threads of the rod turned into the nut. I've tried shortening it, but that don't help matters any. It sits at least a 1/4" high and won't latch for sure.

If I take the top latch off, the lid closes just perfect.

I also finally got access into the locked deck lid by using a electric fence post and going in under the rear passenger side of the deck lid and pushing the plunger down. I also noticed someone had drilled a hole at an angle just in front of the tag light to push the linkage in the latch to open it. I just used a stainless steel leader used for fishing and drilled a hole in the bracket/linkage and attatched that to the end of a cotter pin and ran it back down through the existing hole and put a key ring on it as a secondary back up. The problem with the solenoid was that something tore the ground wire off to it and rendered it useless.

[914itis]

You still did not solve the issue?

[partwerks]

The solenoid is working again, but is a bit lazy about popping up all the way up. I suppose a person could put a bit of a spring on there to baby sit it.

At this point it seems a matter of adjustment to get it to latch correctly and get the lid to come down a bit.

[914itis]

how did you get it open?

[914 shifter]

I know the top part of the rear deck lid latch is adjustable. My deck lid will latch but if I shorten it up any more then it won't catch. Currently the nut on the back where it turns only has about 1/3 of the threads of the rod turned into the nut. I've tried shortening it, but that don't help matters any. It sits at least a 1/4" high and won't latch for sure.

If I take the top latch off, the lid closes just perfect.

I also finally got access into the locked deck lid by using a electric fence post and going in under the rear passenger side of the deck lid and pushing the plunger down. I also noticed someone had drilled a hole at an angle just in front of the tag light to push the linkage in the latch to open it. I just used a stainless steel leader used for fishing and drilled a hole in the bracket/linkage and attatched that to the end of a cotter pin and ran it back down through the existing hole and put a key ring on it as a secondary back up. The problem with the solenoid was that something tore the ground wire off to it and rendered it useless.

"If I take the top latch off, the lid closes just perfect". i had the same issue with the car i just bought. if you look under the rear you should see the seam is separated. i had to weld back together and do some hammering. then some body and paint work. previous owner must have pried it up with something. or you could just get a good lid. it is the lid reinforcement/bracing section just fore of the 2 latch mounting holes. Scotty B a 914 member who does body work pointed this out to me. i was baffled too.

[partwerks]

I used a electric fence post and went under the rear passenger side and over to the plunger and pushed it down.

I looked under there and I'm not seeing any cracks whatsoever.

I wonder if those rubber stops in the corners need to be turned in more yet?

[partwerks]

For grins and giggles, removing the rubber stops didn't allow it come down any further.
No cracks on the underside.

Seems to me it would be something pertaining to the top part of the latch as when it is out is lays perfect and in, it is too high. Could there be something to the fact that the spring has too much brass horns. I've adjusted it shorter but then it won't latch.