engine specs!, big four!!!!!! Options

[kid914]

I hope someone can help me.
I would like to rubuild my type IV INTO A BIG FOUR. I am wondering if anyone who's done it has ...or know;s someone who has a complete engine specs sheet to share.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
Any help is greatly appreciated.
kid914

[VaccaRabite]

How big is big, and how much do you want to spend.


If this is your first time with an engine build, I'd suggest doing a 2056 (or 1911 of your car is a 1.7 or 1.8). It keeps many of the stock parts, gives a nice bump to HP and torque.

Many of the pros here will tell you that you don't want to go with a bore size over 96mm if you keep the cast iron cylinders - and make more displacement through stroke.

If you want to stay with stock FI, you need to keep the cam mild - stock really. Carbs will allow for bigger cams and bigger compression (as will modern EFI).

And the cost to build a big 4 still is not super cheap. a 2056 will probably set you back about 3K if you can reuse some things. 1/2 of that cost is head work.

So, what do you want, and what is your budget?

Zach

[r_towle]

How big, and what are you starting with for a motor?
Is this your first time to rebuild a motor?

What is your budget and what is your target HP?

Lastly...but it really should be first.
What is the intended purpose of the car?

Rich

[Al Meredith]

I've got a 2056 in my 912E and I love it. The torque is inpressive , over 120 at the wheels from 2500 to 5000 RPM.The 912E is probably 500 to 600 lbs heavier than a 914 so the performance would be more impressive. Have Len Hoffman do the heads and get the kit from Jake!

[kid914]

My engine is stock,from what i can see. it was removed by the p.o. he had another engine in it to do autocross. But he told me it ran fine before it was removed.
Although it will be my daily driver in the summer, I plan on enjoying some spirited driving.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif) perhaps even try my luck at someautocross events.

I had about 3k as my budget, but willing to do some of the work.
Mind you i haven't done any real mechanics since high school.......20+yrs ago...but very much looking forward to it.

[cwpeden]

From the outside it could be a 73' 1.7L or a 74-76 1.8L judging from the sparkplug location and trans. Thats about it without a serial number from the block.

It was converted to carbs at some point so that could leave the inards open to all kinds of mods....

PS where in Canada?

[wertygrog]

Definitely looking like a 2.0L to me based off the spark plug location (low). You can confirm that by counting the studs for the intake manifolds, there'll be 3 studs on each side if it's a 2.0L. That's good because then you have nice cylinder heads and the correct crank/rods for a 2056.

Also looks like you have the good sideshift transmission that would come on a later car, 73 and up I think?

[McMark]

$3000? Build a 2056 by rebuilding all your stock components and installing 96mm pistons and cylinders. A nice carb cam will make a lot of great power.

[ConeDodger]

$3000? Build a 2056 by rebuilding all your stock components and installing 96mm pistons and cylinders. A nice carb cam will make a lot of great power.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Properly built you will have a great trouble-free motor and a car you STILL like to drive...

[Valy]

I'm building a 2056 from a 2L. Doing most of the work myself.

The cost for me is $1500 parts and machine work. I seriously considered to go to a 2.3L for about $1K more but decided to do that on the other engine I'm going to rebuild probably next year.

[nsr-jamie]

Where abouts in Canada are you in? If you are in BC I can try to help a bit.....

[kid914]

Where abouts in Canada are you in? If you are in BC I can try to help a bit.....

Thanks for all the help offer guys, but i'm in Ottawa.
And thanks for the tip ,i will look to match the serial # on the engine.....but i was told it is a 2.0 so i'll keep my fingers crossed.

[kid914]

Where abouts in Canada are you in? If you are in BC I can try to help a bit.....

Thanks for all the help offer guys, but i'm in Ottawa.
And thanks for the tip ,i will look to match the serial # on the engine.....but i was told it is a 2.0 so i'll keep my fingers crossed.

btw Valy... where did you go to get parts and machining for 1500$....wow
I should take you shopping...!.

[Valy]

Where abouts in Canada are you in? If you are in BC I can try to help a bit.....

Thanks for all the help offer guys, but i'm in Ottawa.
And thanks for the tip ,i will look to match the serial # on the engine.....but i was told it is a 2.0 so i'll keep my fingers crossed.

btw Valy... where did you go to get parts and machining for 1500$....wow
I should take you shopping...!.

cip1.com has 20% off this month. - bearings (all), oil pump, gaskets, and much more
Pistons and cylinders - eBay $250
Cam - webcam #73 + 5deg on exhaust + lifters

machine work includes align boring, valve job, rods, oil galley tap, crank polish, heads flycut and cleaning everything - done by a local Type 4 guy.

[Jake Raby]

Cam - webcam #73 + 5deg on exhaust + lifters

So.. Where were you thinking of buying that cam? The grind was Raby developed. Some have tried to rip it off but they leave out one very specific characteristic that makes the difference.

But today its not the latest and greatest.. Development never rests and nothing ever stays the same..

This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Oct 26 2011, 06:38 PM

[Valy]

So.. Where were you thinking of buying that cam? The grind was Raby developed. Some have tried to rip it off but they leave out one very specific characteristic that makes the difference.

The missing ingredient is the fun I have doing it myself (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Now seriously, I would've buy it from you but I don't want the entire kit and you stated few weeks ago that you're disconcerting the cam kit program. I'm only buying from people who want to sell, period.

[TheCabinetmaker]

This is all very disconcerting.

[Valy]

This is all very disconcerting.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Discontinuing

[patrick3000]

When I had the 2.0 engine in my 912E rebuilt about three or four years ago. I used NOS 94mm Euro P&C's, increased the compression to 8.0, installed a Web cam with a mild grind and kept the stock fuel injection, sent the injectors out to be rebuilt, I also added a Mallory distributor. I did the removal disassembly down to the long block and reinstall myself to save $$$. Total cost for the assembly of the long block with the above parts supplied by me was less than $1,800.00. Parts were around $1,100.00 including all of the while you are in there stuff like new German fuel lines from the bird board.

[monkeyboy]

So.. Where were you thinking of buying that cam? The grind was Raby developed. Some have tried to rip it off but they leave out one very specific characteristic that makes the difference.

The missing ingredient is the fun I have doing it myself (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Now seriously, I would've buy it from you but I don't want the entire kit and you stated few weeks ago that you're disconcerting the cam kit program. I'm only buying from people who want to sell, period.

I think it was just the engine kit program that was discontinued.

You can still buy a cam kit, but you need to buy the whole kit.