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> pedal board, which one
underdog
post Dec 29 2011, 09:26 AM
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I need to replace pedal board. WOOD OR ALUMINUM?
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infraredcalvin
post Dec 29 2011, 09:31 AM
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Are you going to cover it up with carpet? If so just get a cheap wood one. If not and/or prefer the racer look go with a cool drilled alum one. Depends on $$$ and looks. A wood one in good shape will last plenty long.
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ww914
post Dec 29 2011, 09:45 AM
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I agree, if you are going to re-carpet, just use the old one as a template.
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TurbOH Brad
post Dec 29 2011, 12:53 PM
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QUOTE(underdog @ Dec 29 2011, 10:26 AM) *

I need to replace pedal board. WOOD OR ALUMINUM?


It is my preference to replace it once and never worry about it again, even 20 years later. That's why I have always replaced them with Aluminum. The rennline ones are pretty good, but you could probably cut your own if you have a good bandsaw handy.
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dlestep
post Dec 29 2011, 07:06 PM
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Aluminum will not absorb water, whether you have carpet or not.
De-populate the pedal board and take it to a lazer cutter and have them replicate
it in aluminum with the correct perimeter, mounting holes and slots, and pedal
cutouts.
I defined the laser tool path in Solidworks and sent it to the shop to be cut and
clear anodized.
I used a 1/8 inch thick strip of solid rubber sheet (1 x 12 in., on left side and
a smaller piece on the center hump.
I mounted a new billet throttle stop base and new white Delrin stop screw.
(for the moment, I forgot where I purchased it, but I will continue to look, and pass it on.)
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TurbOH Brad
post Dec 30 2011, 09:16 AM
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That looks great. Do you still have the Solidworks file?

QUOTE(dlestep @ Dec 29 2011, 08:06 PM) *

Aluminum will not absorb water, whether you have carpet or not.
De-populate the pedal board and take it to a lazer cutter and have them replicate
it in aluminum with the correct perimeter, mounting holes and slots, and pedal
cutouts.
I defined the laser tool path in Solidworks and sent it to the shop to be cut and
clear anodized.
I used a 1/8 inch thick strip of solid rubber sheet (1 x 12 in., on left side and
a smaller piece on the center hump.
I mounted a new billet throttle stop base and new white Delrin stop screw.
(for the moment, I forgot where I purchased it, but I will continue to look, and pass it on.)
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dlestep
post Dec 30 2011, 12:32 PM
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I have to look on my old computer, the pedal board was done in 2008.
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underthetire
post Dec 30 2011, 01:45 PM
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I had an aluminum one fall off the waterjet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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ConeDodger
post Dec 30 2011, 10:09 PM
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Jeff,
With your skill set I would just make one out of wood. Aluminum which is what I have, is great for performance driving but probably not needed for the street. Actually, not sure if I kept my original but it was in great shape. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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cwpeden
post Dec 31 2011, 03:22 AM
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How does Aluminum improve performance while driving? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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dlestep
post Dec 31 2011, 09:47 AM
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QUOTE(cwpeden @ Dec 31 2011, 04:22 AM) *

How does Aluminum improve performance while driving? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)


The aluminum pedal board doesn't improve performance, I just like to know
that in a couple of years it won't be rotting. (VWs had metal pedal boards.)
I don't like the wooden pedal board nor the expanding foam that the Porsche
factory used in the worst possible places in the 911 and the 914 bodies during
the 70s.
I removed them from the '72 911 and the '73 and '74 914s that I've owned.

In fact, when I'm "gettin' it" I remove everything that I can, the electric motors,
(headlight, fresh air and heater along with all heater and fresh air hoses);
the pedal board; all the crap in the trunks (spare tire, spare clutch cable,
spare throttle cable and fuses); sunglasses, pens, paper, and that small collection
of miscellaneous small screws and nuts from the glovebox;
license plate and bracket; wiper arms; that two ton heat shield over where
the muffler used to be; rubber trunk mat and carpet, jack and tool bag;
the possibles bag with two quarts of spare oil, spare electric fuel pump, wire
crimpers and a few wire terminals and spare relays; and the arm rests from
the doors; even removed the center tray, lighter and the ash tray in preparation.
(almost forgot to mention the back pad and passenger belt.)

Even though they may be light by comparison, singularly, collectively it's almost
equal in weight of a passenger.
...whew...I'm tired just typing it.
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rohar
post Dec 31 2011, 10:01 AM
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I hate wood, but I'm a CSOB. Grabbed a couple of pieces of fiberglass sheet from the local home improvement place, (panels, not fabric) and laminated them together with a bit of epoxy. Then used the wood as a template and cut it out with a jigsaw. It's in a box in the shop after moving, I'll see if I can't find it and post some pics.

All told, cost like $20
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ConeDodger
post Dec 31 2011, 02:55 PM
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QUOTE(cwpeden @ Dec 31 2011, 01:22 AM) *

How does Aluminum improve performance while driving? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)


Ever had a cable snap or broken a clutch tube? It has a serious effect on performance and is more likely to happen while you are flogging the car than driving to your grandma's house. The wooden ones flex pretty good even in good shape.

This is right from Mark's (Engman) website:The old wooden board is most likely rotten or at least flexing by now. The flex is one of the major contributors to clutch tube failure. Replace it now with this .25" 6061 laser cut aluminum board. It bolts right into the old location using the existing hardware. Simply transfer your old pedal and clutch stop over to the new board. You will not find a better price and I'll even include the shipping.
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Harpo
post Dec 31 2011, 05:00 PM
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I just ordered a new aluminum one from renline. I forgot that Engman carried them.

David
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underdog
post Jan 1 2012, 10:46 AM
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Engman's site says aluminum is not available right now. He does'nt answer email
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