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> Installing new Rubber Engine Compartment Seals, What to lubricate them with
euro911
post Jan 12 2012, 11:30 AM
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Since the drive train is out and Milt fixed the engine shelf in my '75, I'm getting ready to install new [914rubber.com] seals around the engine compartment.

The old ones were hard and brittle (what was left of them), and I had to bend the rails on the slots apart a little to get them out.

What do you guys use to lubricate new seals so they don't bind or tear when pulling them in?

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SLITS
post Jan 12 2012, 11:32 AM
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Sliicone spray or soapy water
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JeffBowlsby
post Jan 12 2012, 11:39 AM
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I use glycerin from the drugstore. Preserves rubber items too.
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andys
post Jan 12 2012, 12:25 PM
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K-Y Jelly from the drug store works great; been using it for years......for AUTOMOTIVE purposes :-)

Andys
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aharder
post Jan 12 2012, 12:33 PM
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QUOTE(andys @ Jan 12 2012, 12:25 PM) *

K-Y Jelly from the drug store works great; been using it for years......for AUTOMOTIVE purposes :-)

Andys


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've been using it for years also.... But not just Automotive!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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euro911
post Jan 12 2012, 12:43 PM
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Thanks. I didn't want to introduce [soapy] water into the slots (don't want anything to start rusting in there), so glycerin or KY sounds like a pretty good way to go.

Then, it seems that glycerin, or KY, would also work for rubber [suspension] bushings? ... I'll be replacing the front bushings and installing an anti-sway bar soon as well ...
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ellisor3
post Jan 12 2012, 02:15 PM
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WD 40 also works well and helps displace water, much like the other things listed. WD 40 may be easier to apply though.
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geniusanthony
post Jan 12 2012, 02:51 PM
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From the reading I have been doing, Silicone based lube is bad for rubber items, As Jeff said.. I second Glycerin or Glycol is another name for the stuff. Works great for preserving rubber also. BMW spares product called Gummi Pfledge(sp) is also a good preservative as an FYI.
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rwilner
post Jan 12 2012, 02:53 PM
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I lubricated mine with simple green, which is also what I was using to clean up the engine compartment. Worked great
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bandjoey
post Jan 12 2012, 06:26 PM
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Stop and do NOT pass go. 914rubber.com recommends an Aero product I forgot the name of.........My bottle is at home and I'm at work. It not only cleans it protects for a long time.

Mark?? And he is the imperial potentate of 914 rubber.
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toolguy
post Jan 12 2012, 07:10 PM
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OK here is the best product to use. . . It's called 'Smoothie'. . it's a painters product and is actually liquid silicon. .It's only available at profession auto painter supply stores. . . it is also a rubber preservative beside being slippy. . . it' will protec also. . . . it is absorbed into the the rubber. . . it's around $15 for 8 ounces and is clear. . . it also leaves a great sheen on the rubber. . think Armor all. .only this is good stuff. .

here's a link. . . http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...Rgl6V675XC7QXbl
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McMark
post Jan 12 2012, 08:37 PM
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I guess I'm the only one who just installs them by setting the seal in the lower lip and pushing the seal under the top lip with a flat screwdriver. I never much liked sliding seals into place unless there is no other option.
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dlee6204
post Jan 12 2012, 08:44 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 12 2012, 09:37 PM) *

I guess I'm the only one who just installs them by setting the seal in the lower lip and pushing the seal under the top lip with a flat screwdriver. I never much liked sliding seals into place unless there is no other option.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That's the way I do it.
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rick 918-S
post Jan 12 2012, 08:46 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 12 2012, 08:37 PM) *

I guess I'm the only one who just installs them by setting the seal in the lower lip and pushing the seal under the top lip with a flat screwdriver. I never much liked sliding seals into place unless there is no other option.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I use a stiff plastic glazers stick or a rounded flat blade screw driver. I don't like to use anything in my shop that could eventually cause a problem with the painting process. If you come in my shop with silicone I will first beat you then get a restraining order to keep you 300 ft from my property.
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markb
post Jan 12 2012, 09:30 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Jan 12 2012, 06:46 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 12 2012, 08:37 PM) *

I guess I'm the only one who just installs them by setting the seal in the lower lip and pushing the seal under the top lip with a flat screwdriver. I never much liked sliding seals into place unless there is no other option.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I use a stiff plastic glazers stick or a rounded flat blade screw driver. I don't like to use anything in my shop that could eventually cause a problem with the painting process. If you come in my shop with silicone I will first beat you then get a restraining order to keep you 300 ft from my property.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
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bigkensteele
post Jan 12 2012, 09:47 PM
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QUOTE(markb @ Jan 12 2012, 07:30 PM) *

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Jan 12 2012, 06:46 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Jan 12 2012, 08:37 PM) *

I guess I'm the only one who just installs them by setting the seal in the lower lip and pushing the seal under the top lip with a flat screwdriver. I never much liked sliding seals into place unless there is no other option.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I use a stiff plastic glazers stick or a rounded flat blade screw driver. I don't like to use anything in my shop that could eventually cause a problem with the painting process. If you come in my shop with silicone I will first beat you then get a restraining order to keep you 300 ft from my property.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I agree with all those that agree. I just installed a set of Mark's seals, and no lubricants were required. The rear seal is a little tough in the bends, but not bad. Just use a flat plastic pushing device to tuck the seal in.

The toughest part of the project was "mitering" the front corners so they would make a nice joint when the engine is in and the bottom of the seals are tucked up under the tin.
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Elliot Cannon
post Jan 12 2012, 10:59 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) What with they all said. Put the lower lip in and I think I used a small putty knife to work the top lip in.
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John
post Jan 12 2012, 11:12 PM
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When I lubricate rubber parts for assembly, I use P-80 rubber lubricant. It is formulated as an assembly lube and does not damage rubber.

By the way, WD40 contains no silicone.

I also push the engine shelf seals in with a small flat blade screwdriver.
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euro911
post Jan 12 2012, 11:14 PM
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Good suggestion, I'll give that a whirl ...

Thanks for all the replies (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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914_teener
post Jan 13 2012, 05:39 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Jan 12 2012, 09:14 PM) *

Good suggestion, I'll give that a whirl ...

Thanks for all the replies (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



You can put them in upside down real easily........

Then you feel like using the KY (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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