Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
 Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Rear Camber
kconway
post Apr 1 2012, 07:59 PM
Post #1


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,347
Joined: 6-December 04
From: Monrovia, CA
Member No.: 3,231
Region Association: Southern California
I installed a small 6 in my car yesterday and I noticed the car has more positive camber to the rear wheels than before the conversion. Is there an adjustment for camber? Ive yet to put on the axels, might that straighten it out?

Kev
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post Apr 1 2012, 08:08 PM
Post #2


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 21,008
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region
Check Chris Foley's site. He has Camber adjustment shims. I bought two sets to straighten mine out. You will need to get longer bolts too. wait until you get it rolling and bring it into an alignment shop.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jeffs9146
post Apr 1 2012, 09:10 PM
Post #3


Ski Bum
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,062
Joined: 10-January 03
From: Discovery Bay, Ca
Member No.: 128
You remove shims to create negitive camber.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Apr 1 2012, 09:28 PM
Post #4


914 Idiot
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 15,196
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California
Just the axles won't affect the camber. Putting weight on the wheels will.

The camber is changed by adding or removing shims between the outer trailing arm mount and the body. More shims mean more positive camber, less shimming (fewer or thinner shims) mean more negative camber.

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
kconway
post Apr 1 2012, 09:35 PM
Post #5


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,347
Joined: 6-December 04
From: Monrovia, CA
Member No.: 3,231
Region Association: Southern California
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 1 2012, 08:28 PM) *

Just the axles won't affect the camber. Putting weight on the wheels will.

The camber is changed by adding or removing shims between the outer trailing arm mount and the body. More shims mean more positive camber, less shimming (fewer or thinner shims) mean more negative camber.

--DD


Just to be clear, if the top of the tire tips in; that's an indication of positive camber?

Kev
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Aaron Cox
post Apr 1 2012, 09:38 PM
Post #6


Professional Lawn Dart
***************

Group: Retired Admin
Posts: 24,542
Joined: 1-February 03
From: Corona, CA
Member No.: 219
Region Association: Southern California
QUOTE(kconway @ Apr 1 2012, 08:35 PM) *

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 1 2012, 08:28 PM) *

Just the axles won't affect the camber. Putting weight on the wheels will.

The camber is changed by adding or removing shims between the outer trailing arm mount and the body. More shims mean more positive camber, less shimming (fewer or thinner shims) mean more negative camber.

--DD


Just to be clear, if the top of the tire tips in; that's an indication of positive camber?

Kev


Nope, thats negative camber.

Positive is like old vw baja bugs... (top of the tire, leans outward)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SirAndy
post Apr 1 2012, 10:05 PM
Post #7


Resident German
*************************

Group: Admin
Posts: 42,244
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California
QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Apr 1 2012, 08:38 PM) *
QUOTE(kconway @ Apr 1 2012, 08:35 PM) *
Just to be clear, if the top of the tire tips in; that's an indication of positive camber?

Nope, thats negative camber.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
sixnotfour
post Apr 2 2012, 12:11 AM
Post #8


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 10,905
Joined: 12-September 04
From: Life Elevated..planet UT.
Member No.: 2,744
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)


Attached image(s)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
kconway
post Apr 2 2012, 06:53 AM
Post #9


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,347
Joined: 6-December 04
From: Monrovia, CA
Member No.: 3,231
Region Association: Southern California
Great info, much appreciated! Last thing, should the car be set up neutral or biased positive or negative? I've got new shims but want to get it close so I can drive it to get it aligned.

Kev
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
EdwardBlume
post Apr 2 2012, 07:00 AM
Post #10


914 Wizard
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 12,338
Joined: 2-January 03
From: SLO
Member No.: 81
Region Association: Central California
It depends. If you are driving for street and longevity of tires, set it neutral. If you care less about the tires and want an aggressive street / AX / track stance, set it up for negative camber. On street and track I prefer the latter.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
SirAndy
post Apr 2 2012, 12:25 PM
Post #11


Resident German
*************************

Group: Admin
Posts: 42,244
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California
QUOTE(kconway @ Apr 2 2012, 05:53 AM) *
Last thing, should the car be set up neutral or biased positive or negative?

I would advise against a neutral or positive setup, even for a street driven car.
Our cars benefit from negative camber.

The max. you can get out of the stock setup is about -2 deg. in the rear. That would be running without any shims. However, for most street driven cars, this is too much.

I think the sweet spot for a street setup is somewhere between -0.5 and -1 degrees.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
db9146
post Sep 9 2015, 12:47 PM
Post #12


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 953
Joined: 21-December 04
From: Atlanta, GA
Member No.: 3,315
Region Association: None
I have street tires on a lowered -6 for aggressive street driving. One side has -1.0 degree and the other has -1.8 degrees. Should I be moving towards -1.8 or -1.0 to even things out?

At alignment shop now!
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jeffs9146
post Sep 9 2015, 01:19 PM
Post #13


Ski Bum
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,062
Joined: 10-January 03
From: Discovery Bay, Ca
Member No.: 128
QUOTE(db9146 @ Sep 9 2015, 11:47 AM) *

I have street tires on a lowered -6 for aggressive street driving. One side has -1.0 degree and the other has -1.8 degrees. Should I be moving towards -1.8 or -1.0 to even things out?

At alignment shop now!


-1.0
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
db9146
post Sep 9 2015, 01:30 PM
Post #14


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 953
Joined: 21-December 04
From: Atlanta, GA
Member No.: 3,315
Region Association: None
Looks like -1.4 now on both sides.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
db9146
post Sep 9 2015, 02:11 PM
Post #15


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 953
Joined: 21-December 04
From: Atlanta, GA
Member No.: 3,315
Region Association: None
Ok, dealing with a shop that is willing but not knowledgable on the 914. The tech is saying that there is too much toe-in on the drivers side and that despite trying to pry the trailing arm pivot mount out, he can't get any less toe.

If he now concentrates just on the front, he says that the total alignment will still be off since their Hunter machine keys off the rear wheels as well.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Sep 9 2015, 04:26 PM
Post #16


914 Idiot
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 15,196
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California
Hmm. Either the tech hasn't loosened the bolts holding the outer pivot onto the chassis enough, or the trailing arm or chassis are bent. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
karnak
post Sep 10 2015, 12:03 AM
Post #17


Newbie
*

Group: Members
Posts: 11
Joined: 22-August 10
From: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Member No.: 12,090
Region Association: Canada
during my polybronze bushing upgrade, one of my rear arms, i had to adjust the inner mount (hole) by filing one end longer and welding the other end to rebuild the proper dimension. i think i moved the hole almost 1/4 inch...all that to get 0 toe in.. i settled there. the other side was just fine. it may be possible that the jigiging and welding back in the day was not all that precise. running almost -2 camber on the rear. decent for autocross (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
porschetub
post Sep 10 2015, 12:59 AM
Post #18


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,873
Joined: 25-July 15
From: New Zealand
Member No.: 18,995
Region Association: None
QUOTE(karnak @ Sep 10 2015, 06:03 PM) *

during my polybronze bushing upgrade, one of my rear arms, i had to adjust the inner mount (hole) by filing one end longer and welding the other end to rebuild the proper dimension. i think i moved the hole almost 1/4 inch...all that to get 0 toe in.. i settled there. the other side was just fine. it may be possible that the jigiging and welding back in the day was not all that precise. running almost -2 camber on the rear. decent for autocross (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


It has been mentioned on Pelican these cars aren't very accurate from side to side which considering how older cars were made it makes sense ,my car for instance has even gaps both sides on the rear 16X7'' Fuches,so maybe I'am lucky ? I also have reasonable clearance with the tyres @ ride height.
I'am going for max negative camber and not to worried about tyre wear .
By the way this is a useful thread and good info here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rgalla9146
post Sep 10 2015, 06:04 PM
Post #19


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,772
Joined: 23-November 05
From: Paramus NJ
Member No.: 5,176
Region Association: None
I didn't read the whole thread.
The axles aren't in the car yet ?
Are your rear hubs and stub axles tightened ?
If not don't roll the car.
And don't judge alignment.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
« Next Oldest · 914World Garage · Next Newest »
 

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 

Display Mode: Standard · Switch to: Linear+ · Switch to: Outline

Track this topic · Email this topic · Print this topic · Subscribe to this forum

- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 4th July 2025 - 08:32 AM
Invision Power Board v9.1.4 © 2025  IPS, Inc.
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community!
We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ...