Really need help with my shift linkage, ... and things were goin so well....... *sigh* UPDATE |
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Really need help with my shift linkage, ... and things were goin so well....... *sigh* UPDATE |
Scott S |
Apr 13 2012, 10:25 AM
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#1
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Small Member Group: Members Posts: 1,698 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Colorado Member No.: 633 |
Hi All -
I was trucking right along on my car last night. I did the hard oil line, the headers/muffler bracket - things were going fine. I installed all of the new bushings for my shift linkage and went to install the shift bar - It was not even close to fitting. It really hits the headers, and I am also a bit concerend aboout it hitting the left side timing chain cover as well. My car is a 1972 with a tail shifter. My tranny shifts really well, so I had no interest in swapping to the side shifer. I thought this would also keep my conversion easier as I thought the -6 used the same early parts. Does anyone have any experience with this? I did a pile of searches, but all I can find are shift bar modification for the 1973 and later side shift linkages - which has made me even more concerend..... Absolutely in your debt for any help.... Scott S Attached image(s) |
jcambo7 |
Apr 13 2012, 10:27 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,691 Joined: 24-December 08 From: Graham, WA Member No.: 9,867 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Is the shift linkage for a 4 or a 6?
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Scott S |
Apr 13 2012, 10:28 AM
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#3
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Small Member Group: Members Posts: 1,698 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Colorado Member No.: 633 |
It is a -4....
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jcambo7 |
Apr 13 2012, 10:33 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,691 Joined: 24-December 08 From: Graham, WA Member No.: 9,867 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I'm pretty sure that the 6's linkage was bent differently. Not sure though for tail shifter. You could probably bend it to make it fit around the exhaust and than cut the middle somewhere and weld some more metal to extend the length.
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SLITS |
Apr 13 2012, 10:42 AM
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#5
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
You can:
1 Dent the headers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) or 2 Put a bend in the shifter bar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) or 3 Raise the front of the engine enough to clear the shift rod or 4. Convert to a side-shifter Those are my suggestions and #3 is probably the best method. Can't see what kind of front mount you used or your induction system. |
brant |
Apr 13 2012, 10:51 AM
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#6
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,771 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Scott,
the -6 tail shifter and the -4 tail shifters are different.... IMHO... the easiest way around this would be to make a new shift bar you can buy the right size of tubing and fairly easily make an new bar with the bends in it... |
jcambo7 |
Apr 13 2012, 10:56 AM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,691 Joined: 24-December 08 From: Graham, WA Member No.: 9,867 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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Randal |
Apr 13 2012, 10:56 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,446 Joined: 29-May 03 From: Los Altos, CA Member No.: 750 |
You can: 1 Dent the headers (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) or 2 Put a bend in the shifter bar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) or 3 Raise the front of the engine enough to clear the shift rod or 4. Convert to a side-shifter Those are my suggestions and #3 is probably the best method. Can't see what kind of front mount you used or your induction system. I vote for converting to a side shifter as various people, including Chris Foley have shifter upgrades with bent shifter rods. BTW mine works great, so I'd vote for that option. I wonder about the idea of lifting the engine as that will likely impact handling. |
Scott S |
Apr 13 2012, 11:02 AM
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#9
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Small Member Group: Members Posts: 1,698 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Colorado Member No.: 633 |
Hi Ron -
I am using the Rich Johnson mount and I am carbed. I dont think there is anyway to lift the motor. I guess I could have some large spacers machined to raise the 911 sport mounts on the mount - but I dont know if there is enough room. As a side note, my engine tins align perfectly with the gasket/engine shelf. Looks like modifying the bar is the only option. While scary as hell to me, I guess if I build a very specific jig where I actually attach/bolt down the bar to retain the geometry, it *should* work. Huge bummer. That transmission shifts great. Hope I dont botch it. |
SirAndy |
Apr 13 2012, 11:03 AM
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#10
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Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,854 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California |
the -6 tail shifter and the -4 tail shifters are different.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) You could always make yourself a custom rod that clears everything. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) |
LotusJoe |
Apr 13 2012, 11:18 AM
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#11
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Europa Twink Driver Group: Members Posts: 406 Joined: 30-November 09 From: Southern California Member No.: 11,085 Region Association: Southern California |
Definitely a different shift rod. Looks like it's different all the way up to the shifter in the car.
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jcambo7 |
Apr 13 2012, 11:18 AM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,691 Joined: 24-December 08 From: Graham, WA Member No.: 9,867 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
the -6 tail shifter and the -4 tail shifters are different.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) You could always make yourself a custom rod that clears everything. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) |
SLITS |
Apr 13 2012, 01:13 PM
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#13
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
Hi Ron - I am using the Rich Johnson mount and I am carbed. I dont think there is anyway to lift the motor. I guess I could have some large spacers machined to raise the 911 sport mounts on the mount - but I dont know if there is enough room. As a side note, my engine tins align perfectly with the gasket/engine shelf. Looks like modifying the bar is the only option. While scary as hell to me, I guess if I build a very specific jig where I actually attach/bolt down the bar to retain the geometry, it *should* work. Huge bummer. That transmission shifts great. Hope I dont botch it. With carbs you should be able to lift the engine, but probably not the best idea ... it was an estimated quick fix. Take a good look at the shift linkage ... the /6 linkage looks a lot like the side shifter in that it comes straight out of the shifter firewall hole. The /4 tailshifter is offset by a couple of inches at the firewall ... front rod comes out of hole and mates to the offset rear rod. Therein probably lies the problem. I don't know if you could modify the /4 tailshift linkage at the firewall to accommodate the problem as I have only owned one tailshifter in my life. |
IronHillRestorations |
Apr 13 2012, 08:44 PM
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#14
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,768 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
You should be able to cut a section out, rotate the cut section, and then weld it back together. I've got a jig for the side shifters, but I've never had a request for a tail shifter rod.
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Scott S |
Apr 20 2012, 07:49 AM
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#15
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Small Member Group: Members Posts: 1,698 Joined: 30-April 03 From: Colorado Member No.: 633 |
Well, I spent six hours on this issue last night. I bought two additional shift rods locally (thanks Kev!) built a jig to index everything and went at it. My plan was to extend the bends on the bar by simply adding the bends from another bar (see pic).
So I cut and welded and grinded. I cleared the header - but just barely. However, with the gearshifter moved all the way forward (pushing the linkage all the way to the rear), it became painfully obvious that there was going to be a problem with the bar hitting the timing chain cover. There is no way to re-index the factory bends to make it work. So pissed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) My plan now is to cut the ends off the bar and make drops that are straight down out of flat stock. The only issue will be that the plastic cover/boot at the firewall will have to be trimmed/modified. It will work, but I am bummed. I have tried so hard to do this conversion "right" and stay away from my usual red-neck/"get r done" tendencies. F-ing flat stock steel.... nothing but class. cr@p. Might as well have it chromed too..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Jeffs9146 |
Apr 20 2012, 09:10 AM
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#16
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Ski Bum Group: Members Posts: 4,062 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Discovery Bay, Ca Member No.: 128 |
I think it would have been easier to convert it to a side shift and go with a straight shifter bar!
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jcambo7 |
Apr 20 2012, 09:11 AM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,691 Joined: 24-December 08 From: Graham, WA Member No.: 9,867 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Hey that is not a red neck way to get it done! You customized your own shift rod that's all. The red neck way would have been to dent the exhaust in and forget about it.
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