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> remote pressure sender
Montreal914
post Sep 3 2012, 04:16 PM
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I'm looking at the best way to install the oil pressure sending unit (keeping the distruibutor in place) and when I see the high pressure line installation (greaser or paint gun) I wonder what happens to the air that is trapped. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
Do people usually purge the line by unscrewing the sender a bit?
Does the air eventually escape (how and why)?
Couldn't this cause a momentary oil starvation?
Where else (or how) do you install the sender without having a dead end air trap situation?
Thank you for your input (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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minnesota loon
post Sep 4 2012, 08:38 AM
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I used a grease gun hose it worked for a while but got clogged. Just last weekend I installed a 5" strait piece of pipe comes just above the distributor attached the sender it works well. The pipe has a much better oil flow. Male/female brass connector to engine,5" pipe,female/female connector,sensor.I am at work I will try to send picture later
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tradisrad
post Sep 4 2012, 08:46 AM
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QUOTE(minnesota loon @ Sep 4 2012, 07:38 AM) *

I used a grease gun hose it worked for a while but got clogged. Just last weekend I installed a 5" strait piece of pipe comes just above the distributor attached the sender it works well. The pipe has a much better oil flow. Male/female brass connector to engine,5" pipe,female/female connector,sensor.I am at work I will try to send picture later

I had a friend use a straight pipe and it eventually cracked and oil spewed out. I think the vibration in conjunction with the weight of the sender on top of the pipe is what caused it to crack. Keep an eye on yours. His did last for years before the failure.

I have the VDO hose/mount kit and it seems to work well, however I do get an occasional low reading and am wondering if it's trapped air.
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cary
post Sep 4 2012, 08:50 AM
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I've had mine on a dead end hose for 10 years.
Never clogged up. And works like a champ.
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Dave_Darling
post Sep 4 2012, 12:07 PM
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I have one of the old relocation kits that basically gave you a grease gun hose, some adaptors, and a bracket. No issues, no problems that I have observed with air pockets.

The pipe solution is just begging for the hole in the case to break. Especially if you have the sender for the gauge, which is rather larger and heavier than the stock sender for the warning light.

--DD
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Montreal914
post Sep 4 2012, 08:50 PM
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I'm not sure I would go with a rigid tube because of the same vibration/hammer effect on the fittings & block.

It seems like the hose works well for many of you. I will also set it up that way.

...But I'm still wondering where that air goes...I might try to fill the line upon installation.

Thank you for your input!
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worn
post Sep 5 2012, 04:52 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 4 2012, 10:07 AM) *

I have one of the old relocation kits that basically gave you a grease gun hose, some adaptors, and a bracket. No issues, no problems that I have observed with air pockets.

The pipe solution is just begging for the hole in the case to break. Especially if you have the sender for the gauge, which is rather larger and heavier than the stock sender for the warning light.

--DD


Well I used soft copper, silver soldering the ends. The line bends pretty easy, but not unless you want it to. It may work harden with time, but it is never going to be much of a lever on the case. The air is a non-issue. It compresses until it is at oil pressure.
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aircooledtechguy
post Sep 5 2012, 08:58 AM
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One thing to remember when using a remote hose, is that your sender still has to properly ground in order to get accurate readings. I used an metal clamp to hold my sender in place at the base of it. The clamp I used was one of the rubber coated Adel clamps without the rubber. Gets good ground now and the gauge reads accurately (well as accurately as any aftermarket VDO will).
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