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brunester |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 15-June 12 From: santa cruz Member No.: 14,565 Region Association: None ![]() |
Hey Guys,
My dad and I are doing a Rustoration on a 914 2L. Basically the Drivers floor / passenger rear / passenger firewall / trunk / battery tray. The Longs look good.... we think. Here is my question, On the hellhole, how much pitting is ok? What should i do for this? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/img3.imageshack.us-14565-1350783306.1.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/imageshack.us-14565-1350783306.2.jpg) And here is an overview of the lil darlin (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/imageshack.us-14565-1350783306.3.jpg) Thanks for any advice! -Eric |
GaroldShaffer |
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#2
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You bought another 914? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 7,628 Joined: 27-June 03 From: Portage, IN Member No.: 865 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I am no expert when it comes to body work, but if it were my car I would replace that area. But I will defer to the body experts.
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ConeDodger |
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#3
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Apex killer! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,053 Joined: 31-December 04 From: Tahoe Area Member No.: 3,380 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
I am no expert when it comes to body work, but if it were my car I would replace that area. But I will defer to the body experts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Remember, you're only looking at one side of it... |
Andyrew |
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#4
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Spooling.... Please wait ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 13,380 Joined: 20-January 03 From: Riverbank, Ca Member No.: 172 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
Use the sharp screwdriver test.
I stab at it like im trying to kill a intruder... If it goes through a little bit, I'd replace. That being said I had something similar and replaced it. |
McMark |
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#5
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,180 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
I actually tend to take a more conservative approach. Usually these cars have so much work that needs to be done that unless you're planning on building a big-track racecar or building a 100pt restoration, you can leave stuff like that. That pitting will never cause a problem and replacing it is just more work. Rust convert it. Check carefully for pinholes. Then move on to other projects.
BTW, the metal there is double walled, so there is the pitted metal you see there and there is probably perfect metal right underneath it. Yeah, the more I look at it, the more I think - don't bother (except for the two conditions above, race car/restoration). |
mr914 |
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#6
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914 Hillbilly ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 576 Joined: 11-January 03 From: Lincoln NE Member No.: 131 Region Association: None ![]() |
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brunester |
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#7
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 15-June 12 From: santa cruz Member No.: 14,565 Region Association: None ![]() |
Thank you for the advice guys,
I will go ahead and stab at it a bit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) Would welding a piece of metal over the pitting do anything? (clean all the pits first of course and then use weld-through primer) |
yeahmag |
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#8
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,454 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Pasadena, CA Member No.: 3,946 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
No, that will just trap moisture. From what I can see (quickly) it looks fine.
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euro911 |
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#9
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,905 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
My '75 had some good-sized holes down there so Milt (Zeke) cut out and replaced the bad sections.
My wife's '71 doesn't look as pitted an yours, so I just treated it and painted over it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Take an ice pick to it to see how thin it is. |
brunester |
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#10
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3 Joined: 15-June 12 From: santa cruz Member No.: 14,565 Region Association: None ![]() |
Okie doke,
I will do that, Thanks Guys! |
scotty b |
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#11
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rust free you say ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None ![]() |
For once I have to disagree with Mark. Once the hell hole is compromised, these cars rust from the inside out. You need to perform the " screwdriver " test on the outside as well before making a final call on this car. Jab the long and the suspension console as well. I would also encourage taking a knotted wire brush to the whole suspension console, and jack post areas as well. Better safe than sorry (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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edwin |
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#12
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 321 Joined: 20-May 09 From: Australia Member No.: 10,384 Region Association: Australia and New Zealand ![]() |
I would be very tempted to leave that
That said I would run a drill through in a couple of places top and bottom and see how it was. Screwdriver test won't always tell you what's inside. Easy to plug weld a hole you drill |
McMark |
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#13
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,180 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None ![]() |
For once I have to disagree with Mark. I can take it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Santa Cruz, CA versus Richmond, VA. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) |
MrHyde |
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#14
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 525 Joined: 13-October 10 From: Ontario, Canada Member No.: 12,268 Region Association: None ![]() |
That looks about like what mine was. I used the screw driver and hammer trick and managed to get the screw driver to break through in 2 spots at the edge of the inner fender. I cut mine out just because it seemed to be the right thing to do. When I did cut it out the underside looked really good actually. There was only discolouration but no pitting. But heck, its not like it takes long to cut out a small chunk of the top of the frame rail and replace it. If the door gaps havent been affected at all and there is nothing else going on that would affect the structural integrity you may not even have to brace the door openings. I know i didnt have to in mine anyways. If you have everything ready, to cut that out, fab a new piece and weld it in was an afternoon job for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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scotty b |
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#15
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rust free you say ? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None ![]() |
For once I have to disagree with Mark. I can take it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Santa Cruz, CA versus Richmond, VA. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) EAST COAST MUTHA FUCHA !! Attached image(s) ![]() |
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