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> SCAT deep sump install, dang its low!
machina
post Nov 6 2004, 05:01 PM
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Install went pretty smooth. Suprised by the angle down the unit seems to have. Its about 1" lower than the bar. I think I will fab a plate that goes from the firewall back to the bar set off with spacer to the level of the sump bottom. At least that way the whole front of the sump is not exposed and the first thing to impact.

Used hylomar and so far no leaks but I just drove her around the block. Will test it tomorrow.

What torque do the six allen bolts get on the plate? I set then at 60in/lbs

Thanks for the help.


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machina
post Nov 7 2004, 08:28 AM
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Ran her hard early this morning.

No leaks from the sump (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Wierd watching the exhaust temps. They rise and fall so quickly depending if your at steady speed or under hard acceleration. They would range between 1100 => 1250 deg.

Head temps between 250 => 300 deg.

Oil temp mostly around 180, 190 but when the car is setting still or going real slow, heats up to around 225 real quick. I don't have any sealing tin and the fan has 1/2 the blades removed. Behaves kinda like I thought is would, cooler running hard and hotter standing still.

Bad news is the tranny is still leaking bad. I ruled out the breather so it is definitely the input shaft seal. Have to take care of that this week.
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Korijo
post Nov 7 2004, 01:56 PM
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I have a really nice Gene Berg deep sump on my bug, but it has 3" of lift (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

could you modify the mount bracket ON the case ?


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Brad Roberts
post Nov 7 2004, 02:02 PM
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Ha ha.. that isnt even the Scat DEEP DEEP sump. Looks good. I run them also. If you get overly concerned raise the front of the motor 1/2 an inch. We raise the engine/trans in the 4cyl race cars upwards of 3/4 of an inch for header clearance and sump clearance. Depending on what starter you are running you may have to dimple the trunk floor.


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machina
post Nov 7 2004, 02:03 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Nov 7 2004, 04:02 PM)
If you get overly concerned raise the front of the motor 1/2 an inch. We raise the engine/trans in the 4cyl race cars upwards of 3/4 of an inch for header clearance and sump clearance. Depending on what starter you are running you may have to dimple the trunk floor.

Thanks, that is an awsome idea. Can I leave the tranny mounts alone?
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machina
post Nov 7 2004, 02:05 PM
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QUOTE(Korijo @ Nov 7 2004, 03:56 PM)
I have a really nice Gene Berg deep sump on my bug, but it has 3" of lift (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

could you modify the mount bracket ON the case ?

Not sure what you mean about modifying the bracket?
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Brad Roberts
post Nov 7 2004, 02:07 PM
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Which rear mounts do you have ?


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Korijo
post Nov 7 2004, 02:13 PM
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QUOTE(synthesisdv @ Nov 7 2004, 12:05 PM)

Not sure what you mean about modifying the bracket?

add the half inch spacer to the underside of the bracket ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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machina
post Nov 7 2004, 02:20 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Nov 7 2004, 04:07 PM)
Which rear mounts do you have ?


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The solid billet 911 mounts.
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Brad Roberts
post Nov 7 2004, 02:26 PM
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Raising the front and not doing "something" to the rear will put the trannys ears in bind. You can raise the front of the motor easily with the old-school Weltmeister tranny mounts everyone used to sell. With the solid ones you have.. I would shave 1/2 an inch off of them and raise the rear the same amount I raised the front. OR you could determine the angle of the tranny ears and shave the rear mounts to match that angle.


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