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> 2.0 Flywheel - Depth Specs, making lighter...
RoadGlue
post Jan 25 2013, 02:39 PM
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Hey, at work and just wondered if anyone had the depth specs for the 2.0 flywheel? What's the stock weight too? My last flywheel had been lightened, but I didn't weigh it before selling that car. I LOVED how much faster the shifts were and I didn't mind having to bump the idle a bit. Making a little short-stroke beast, and I'd like to lighten it up a bit. Recommendations (I'll spank you if you say, "keep it stock")?
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Mike Bellis
post Jan 26 2013, 01:27 AM
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QUOTE(RoadGlue @ Jan 25 2013, 12:39 PM) *

"keep it stock")?

Keep it stock! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Can you machine and balance it? Would it not be way easier to buy one already lightened? What about structurally engineering it from catastrophic failure?
Just sayin...
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Mark Henry
post Jan 26 2013, 07:20 AM
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Do not remove material from the back side of the friction surface.
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larryM
post Jan 26 2013, 02:10 PM
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- I did not know per exdane's post below that OP Randy was referring to a 228mm flywheel

- my contribution is deleted - anyone who wants specs for Bontempi's 9 lb 215mm flywheel can P.M.
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exdane
post Jan 26 2013, 04:52 PM
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LarryM.
Roadglue was asking for the 2L spec above.
I haven't been able to find the depth spec. easily, - it is not mentioned in Porsche's little spec. book. RIMCO quotes .853"/.857" which equates 21.66mm/21.77mm. Measuring the 4 core flywheels in my shop, I get right around .889" = 22.83mm. - or a bit less. factoring in wear, I tend to agree with the 22mm. I'll cut it to that then. I would have expected 22.5mm though. I have never known a VW or Porsche flywheel step to be some oddball dim, - always in whole or half mm. - A lot of machine-shops will cut the step on the low side, giving the cover an extra little pressure, anticipating wear, and still be good. I suspect that is why these off dims are listed in the AERA book.
The Porsche 228 flywheel is solid steel, the 228 VW is soft cast iron w./ steel ring-gear. - I'm sure you know.
With respect to the lightening procedure, weight obviously should be removed from the perimeter, never from the back of the friction surface.
I would NEVER run a 10lbs flywheel in an opposed 4. - in a 6, yes, but not the 4.
The stock weight is right around 18 lbs on my handy dandy 'not legal for trade' scale,
I'd go with 14lbs, retain a little flywheel effect, and still have an engine with improved throttle response.
What do the 'Gurus' sell re-man. lightened, balanced flywheels for?
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Bills914-4
post Jan 26 2013, 10:38 PM
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I believe this might be what he's looking for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=149714

Also here pic's of my 11lbs. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) flywheel, hope this helps Bill D.


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image Attached Image
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larryM
post Jan 27 2013, 01:12 PM
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QUOTE(exdane @ Jan 26 2013, 02:52 PM) *

- A lot of machine-shops will cut the step on the low side, giving the cover an extra little pressure, anticipating wear, and still be good.


maybe - but if ya do that you lose clutch lever engagement range - thus requiring the washer under the T.O. brg pivot ball per Rich Bontempi's advice

- and ya also gotta pay attention to the very short threads available on that pivot;
- not much room for "adjustment" if ya cut the flywheel step too deep - unless ya also pay the machinist to have a new pivot made

thanks to WLD419 for the spec diagram link

.
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RoadGlue
post Jan 27 2013, 09:40 PM
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Thanks everyone! It's been a busy weekend, and I'm sorry I haven't replied sooner. "Exdane" is my machinist, Soren, and has been working on aircooled Porsches and VW's since the 70's. He's also one of my best friends.

Really appreciate everyone's input and he and I will be discussing our plans this week.

Oh man, tomorrow is MONDAY. Yuck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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