Oil cooler, Installing |
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Oil cooler, Installing |
cpavlenko |
Jul 23 2015, 09:58 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 489 Joined: 19-April 12 From: North Arizona Member No.: 14,400 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Hi all, well, I'm going to put a oil cooler in the stock 1.7. I'm going with a 12"×9"×4" deep fan cooled oil cooler. Going to put it on the passenger side by the trans. I'm doing this cause the 914 has been running hot in the summer time. Been running at 230 to 240 after a good ride in this heat, around 98 degrees. Should this help. My stock cooler is in good shape and clean. Been freshly tuned also. I'm hoping it'll bring down the temps. Timing is is correct and fuel pressure is good. Engine is a stock 1.7 FI. Sooooo, what u all think about this.
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Elliot Cannon |
Jul 24 2015, 12:18 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
You might want to determine if it is truly running at 230-240 before investing in an external oil cooler. You need a second opinion. Try a different gage-sender than what you have. Or try a dipstick gage. Also check that the thermostat and cooling flaps are operating freely and the stock oil cooler is free of any debris. Exhaust all possibilities before spending money on something you might not need.
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rfinegan |
Jul 24 2015, 04:57 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 973 Joined: 8-February 13 From: NC Member No.: 15,499 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
You might want to determine if it is truly running at 230-240 before investing in an external oil cooler. You need a second opinion. Try a different gage-sender than what you have. Or try a dipstick gage. Also check that the thermostat and cooling flaps are operating freely and the stock oil cooler is free of any debris. Exhaust all possibilities before spending money on something you might not need. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I did a quick test as above with a Multi meter and themo probe down the dip stick. I had 2 issues of concern with my recent motor swap w/taco and sensor (Unkown sensor) 1) initial key on was not at zero or lost setting needle moved 1-2 mm 2) hot gage reads 240-250 Right of P (TEMP) Hot NC day 98 f and I drive my car pretty aggressively most of the time... on a hot engine the thermo probe of my FLUKE meter reads 203f t o 208 f depending how deep in the dip stick hole or oil level (I use the hottest ) I think a calibration is in order but Im glad I did not check the temp before trying to cool it off more. PO had remote cooler...im thinking it was not needed -Robert |
cpavlenko |
Jul 24 2015, 07:15 AM
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#4
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Member Group: Members Posts: 489 Joined: 19-April 12 From: North Arizona Member No.: 14,400 Region Association: Southwest Region |
i'm using a dip stick gauge, and it reads correct. tested with boiling water. flaps OK...
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EdwardBlume |
Jul 24 2015, 07:41 AM
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#5
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 12,338 Joined: 2-January 03 From: SLO Member No.: 81 Region Association: Central California |
Hows your timing and valves?
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Dave_Darling |
Jul 24 2015, 09:04 AM
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#6
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
Putting the cooler there is not optimal--it will live in an area that is heated by the exhaust, and has poor air flow. Either ducting or a fan, or both, will be needed to get air flow through it.
I have a similar setup on my car, with a fan. With the fan off, the cooler doesn't have much of an effect at all. When I turn the fan on, the temp heads to a less-unreasonable level reasonably quickly. --DD |
cpavlenko |
Jul 24 2015, 11:13 AM
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#7
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Member Group: Members Posts: 489 Joined: 19-April 12 From: North Arizona Member No.: 14,400 Region Association: Southwest Region |
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cpavlenko |
Jul 24 2015, 11:18 AM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 489 Joined: 19-April 12 From: North Arizona Member No.: 14,400 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Putting the cooler there is not optimal--it will live in an area that is heated by the exhaust, and has poor air flow. Either ducting or a fan, or both, will be needed to get air flow through it. I have a similar setup on my car, with a fan. With the fan off, the cooler doesn't have much of an effect at all. When I turn the fan on, the temp heads to a less-unreasonable level reasonably quickly. --DD |
boxsterfan |
Jul 24 2015, 12:46 PM
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#9
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914's are kewl Group: Members Posts: 1,776 Joined: 6-June 03 From: San Ramon, CA Member No.: 791 Region Association: Northern California |
Do you remove the stock oil cooler? This seems like it could only help with the cooling of the cylinders on that side of the engine.
Also, are your flaps operating properly? |
ThePaintedMan |
Jul 24 2015, 02:09 PM
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#10
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
You've pulled the tin and cleaned the oil cooler? Made sure there are no leaves or debris obstructing it?
We ran our car at Sebring for 10 hours, most of the time above 4500 rpms in 90 degree heat. The oil never got about 220 as far as I know. This is a relatively stock 1.8. |
cpavlenko |
Jul 24 2015, 02:43 PM
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#11
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Member Group: Members Posts: 489 Joined: 19-April 12 From: North Arizona Member No.: 14,400 Region Association: Southwest Region |
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patssle |
Jul 24 2015, 04:20 PM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 28-August 09 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 10,741 Region Association: None |
I have a similar setup on my car, with a fan. With the fan off, the cooler doesn't have much of an effect at all. When I turn the fan on, the temp heads to a less-unreasonable level reasonably quickly. --DD Mine works great for my /6. Previously temps were 250+ (didn't push it any further)...now they won't go past 210. Fan + thermostat at 180. |
Jetsetsurfshop |
Jul 24 2015, 04:50 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 814 Joined: 7-April 11 From: Marco Island Florida Member No.: 12,907 Region Association: South East States |
You've pulled the tin and cleaned the oil cooler? Made sure there are no leaves or debris obstructing it? We ran our car at Sebring for 10 hours, most of the time above 4500 rpms in 90 degree heat. The oil never got about 220 as far as I know. This is a relatively stock 1.8. As far as you know.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) |
ThePaintedMan |
Jul 24 2015, 05:57 PM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Shane, would you believe, even with the 2 autocrosses that I did since then, that it's still the SAME OIL in it? I figured we couldn't have done more than 1,000 miles and we added a little at each stop. Whats the point in changing it if it barely got used? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Edit: I read the original poster's comment about the oil cooler being clean. Sorry I missed that originally. Every engine is different - some inevitably run hotter than others. |
campbellcj |
Jul 24 2015, 10:09 PM
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#15
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I can't Re Member Group: Members Posts: 4,547 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California |
FWIW on a previous 914 I did the small rear-mounted cooler setup the OP mentioned, and while it probably did help a little, it was far from optimal especially in our hot summers and/or track use. This was on a stock D-Jet 2.0 using a Mocal sandwich thermostat.
If you drive in challenging conditions now or might in the future, I suggest seriously considering a front cooler or some other lashup. My current car has a ginormous front cooler because I wanted to do it once then never think about cooling again. |
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