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cpavlenko
Hi all, well, I'm going to put a oil cooler in the stock 1.7. I'm going with a 12"×9"×4" deep fan cooled oil cooler. Going to put it on the passenger side by the trans. I'm doing this cause the 914 has been running hot in the summer time. Been running at 230 to 240 after a good ride in this heat, around 98 degrees. Should this help. My stock cooler is in good shape and clean. Been freshly tuned also. I'm hoping it'll bring down the temps. Timing is is correct and fuel pressure is good. Engine is a stock 1.7 FI. Sooooo, what u all think about this.
Elliot Cannon
You might want to determine if it is truly running at 230-240 before investing in an external oil cooler. You need a second opinion. Try a different gage-sender than what you have. Or try a dipstick gage. Also check that the thermostat and cooling flaps are operating freely and the stock oil cooler is free of any debris. Exhaust all possibilities before spending money on something you might not need.
rfinegan
QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Jul 23 2015, 10:18 PM) *

You might want to determine if it is truly running at 230-240 before investing in an external oil cooler. You need a second opinion. Try a different gage-sender than what you have. Or try a dipstick gage. Also check that the thermostat and cooling flaps are operating freely and the stock oil cooler is free of any debris. Exhaust all possibilities before spending money on something you might not need.

agree.gif

I did a quick test as above with a Multi meter and themo probe down the dip stick. I had 2 issues of concern with my recent motor swap w/taco and sensor (Unkown sensor)

1) initial key on was not at zero or lost setting needle moved 1-2 mm
2) hot gage reads 240-250 Right of P (TEMP)
Hot NC day 98 f and I drive my car pretty aggressively most of the time...
on a hot engine the thermo probe of my FLUKE meter reads 203f t o 208 f depending how deep in the dip stick hole or oil level (I use the hottest )

I think a calibration is in order but Im glad I did not check the temp before trying to cool it off more. PO had remote cooler...im thinking it was not needed

-Robert
cpavlenko
i'm using a dip stick gauge, and it reads correct. tested with boiling water. flaps OK...
EdwardBlume
Hows your timing and valves?
Dave_Darling
Putting the cooler there is not optimal--it will live in an area that is heated by the exhaust, and has poor air flow. Either ducting or a fan, or both, will be needed to get air flow through it.

I have a similar setup on my car, with a fan. With the fan off, the cooler doesn't have much of an effect at all. When I turn the fan on, the temp heads to a less-unreasonable level reasonably quickly.

--DD
cpavlenko
QUOTE(RobW @ Jul 24 2015, 06:41 AM) *

Hows your timing and valves?

timing is right, and valves adjusted 980 miles ago.
cpavlenko
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 24 2015, 08:04 AM) *

Putting the cooler there is not optimal--it will live in an area that is heated by the exhaust, and has poor air flow. Either ducting or a fan, or both, will be needed to get air flow through it.

I have a similar setup on my car, with a fan. With the fan off, the cooler doesn't have much of an effect at all. When I turn the fan on, the temp heads to a less-unreasonable level reasonably quickly.

--DD
the cooler has a fan with thermostat control.
boxsterfan
Do you remove the stock oil cooler? This seems like it could only help with the cooling of the cylinders on that side of the engine.

Also, are your flaps operating properly?

ThePaintedMan
You've pulled the tin and cleaned the oil cooler? Made sure there are no leaves or debris obstructing it?

We ran our car at Sebring for 10 hours, most of the time above 4500 rpms in 90 degree heat. The oil never got about 220 as far as I know. This is a relatively stock 1.8.
cpavlenko
QUOTE(boxsterfan @ Jul 24 2015, 11:46 AM) *

Do you remove the stock oil cooler? This seems like it could only help with the cooling of the cylinders on that side of the engine.

Also, are your flaps operating properly?

flaps working properly.
patssle
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 24 2015, 07:04 AM) *

I have a similar setup on my car, with a fan. With the fan off, the cooler doesn't have much of an effect at all. When I turn the fan on, the temp heads to a less-unreasonable level reasonably quickly.

--DD


Mine works great for my /6. Previously temps were 250+ (didn't push it any further)...now they won't go past 210. Fan + thermostat at 180.
Jetsetsurfshop
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Jul 24 2015, 12:09 PM) *

You've pulled the tin and cleaned the oil cooler? Made sure there are no leaves or debris obstructing it?

We ran our car at Sebring for 10 hours, most of the time above 4500 rpms in 90 degree heat. The oil never got about 220 as far as I know. This is a relatively stock 1.8.


As far as you know.... happy11.gif
ThePaintedMan
QUOTE(Jetsetsurfshop @ Jul 24 2015, 06:50 PM) *


As far as you know.... happy11.gif


Shane, would you believe, even with the 2 autocrosses that I did since then, that it's still the SAME OIL in it? I figured we couldn't have done more than 1,000 miles and we added a little at each stop. Whats the point in changing it if it barely got used? smile.gif


Edit: I read the original poster's comment about the oil cooler being clean. Sorry I missed that originally. Every engine is different - some inevitably run hotter than others.
campbellcj
FWIW on a previous 914 I did the small rear-mounted cooler setup the OP mentioned, and while it probably did help a little, it was far from optimal especially in our hot summers and/or track use. This was on a stock D-Jet 2.0 using a Mocal sandwich thermostat.

If you drive in challenging conditions now or might in the future, I suggest seriously considering a front cooler or some other lashup. My current car has a ginormous front cooler because I wanted to do it once then never think about cooling again.
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