914-6 oil tank fittings Options

[mb911]

Guys,

I need to have some fittings machined and wanted to know what the factory 914-6 oil tank fittings are suppose to be?

[screenguy914]

The cost to create fittings from scratch might be more than other options. What are the issues with your tank?

internet image:


Sherwood

[mb911]

The cost to create fittings from scratch might be more than other options. What are the issues with your tank?

internet image:


Sherwood

I am going to make stainless steel and aluminum tanks and I want make sure I have the proper fittings

[porschetub]

The cost to create fittings from scratch might be more than other options. What are the issues with your tank?

internet image:


Sherwood

Depends if your are you staying with metric or going to AN ?,if I had a choice now I would convert to AN because of the hassle of metric fitting.
Most fitting (metric) I received when I bought my car,it wasn't till I started to buy adaptors ,hose and fitting it became an expensive exercise.
I can't even find anyone in my country to crimp my fitting on as no one has the large Cohline dies here.
PMS went to AN with their tanks,don't think there would be much of a market for tanks with metric fitting.

I am going to make stainless steel and aluminum tanks and I want make sure I have the proper fittings

[mb911]

I will probably offer them both ways.. Just want to make sure I can fill the need for everyone

[jfort]

I have AN

[rgalla9146]

The attached image has non- original fittings to the engine tube and the cooler

[Mark Henry]

Personally if the tank is not correct then use more common and cheaper fittings like AN or NPT.

Take an old cohline fitting, they are steel and TIG weld an -AN fitting to it.
I think the the early cohline fittings are 26mm.

[porschetub]

Personally if the tank is not correct then use more common and cheaper fittings like AN or NPT.

Take an old cohline fitting, they are steel and TIG weld an -AN fitting to it.
I think the the early cohline fittings are 26mm.

Can't fully recall but I seem to remember the steel fittings are made of free-cutting steel ,and don't TIG weld easily,my hydraulics guys used a high strength brazing rod and an educated flame setting with
a gas set to weld.
Free-cutting steel has a elevated lead content for ease of mass production not inert gas type welding.
I will check my stock tank and report back with sizes if that's any help to the op.

[rgalla9146]

Personally if the tank is not correct then use more common and cheaper fittings like AN or NPT.

Take an old cohline fitting, they are steel and TIG weld an -AN fitting to it.
I think the the early cohline fittings are 26mm.

Can't fully recall but I seem to remember the steel fittings are made of free-cutting steel ,and don't TIG weld easily,my hydraulics guys used a high strength brazing rod and an educated flame setting with
a gas set to weld.
Free-cutting steel has a elevated lead content for ease of mass production not inert gas type welding.
I will check my stock tank and report back with sizes if that's any help to the op.

I used many Porsche oil system fittings to adapt a 911 thermo to my front cooler install.
I tacked them with my MIG then had a friend finish with TIG
No special technique necessary

[Mark Henry]

Personally if the tank is not correct then use more common and cheaper fittings like AN or NPT.

Take an old cohline fitting, they are steel and TIG weld an -AN fitting to it.
I think the the early cohline fittings are 26mm.

Can't fully recall but I seem to remember the steel fittings are made of free-cutting steel ,and don't TIG weld easily,my hydraulics guys used a high strength brazing rod and an educated flame setting with
a gas set to weld.
Free-cutting steel has a elevated lead content for ease of mass production not inert gas type welding.
I will check my stock tank and report back with sizes if that's any help to the op.

I used many Porsche oil system fittings to adapt a 911 thermo to my front cooler install.
I tacked them with my MIG then had a friend finish with TIG
No special technique necessary

I have a fitting here that I was given that I'm pretty sure is MIG welded.
They came off a buddies 911 only replaced because his plumbing changed.

[Mikey914]

You may want to take a part an original, as they are not just a tank with fittings, There is an internal baffling and some additional; plumbing. One of the reasons I haven't made these yet was I'm sure the factory made these this way for a reason and didn't want to mess with potentially causing problems by making without testing these. Pressures and flow rates do matter, and kill one 914/6 engine it's not worth the effort. The devil is in the details here.

[mepstein]

Ben - I can't offer to have you take apart my 914-6 tank but I can send you a used 911 oil tank if you want to cut it apart. We have enough used ones laying around that we can sacrifice for the project. Let me know if you want one. Mark

[Mark Henry]

I can show you a 72 911 tank that was cut open.

There is a bit to them, but they are just a can with a bit of internal plumbing and baffles. The oil enters the tank and is then plumbed through the oil filter, back into the tank and out onto the top of the screen baffle. The main baffle is just a SS screen, which is about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the tank. The oil exits towards the rear of the tank bottom. You could make a simple can and use an external oil filter mount, but you must keep the tank screen/baffle as that is what separates the air from the oil.
There is nothing high pressure about the tank, the highest pressure would be the restriction of the oil filter.

I looked into doing this myself, it would be a fair bit of work to get it right but it is doable.
If you were to fab a tank, mild steel would be fine as long as the tank is sealed and always filled with clean oil. The issue would be rust through from the outside, the top being the most prone.
If you are good at welding and don't mind a bit of extra weight I bet you could MIG weld a steel tank. SS or AL would be better, but then you need a TIG welder.

In the end I found a deal on a complete DWD tank set and I scooped it up.

[jmill]

I looked into it a while ago. Links for the tank prints are here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...756&hl=tank

[rgalla9146]

I can show you a 72 911 tank that was cut open.

There is a bit to them, but they are just a can with a bit of internal plumbing and baffles. The oil enters the tank and is then plumbed through the oil filter, back into the tank and out onto the top of the screen baffle. The main baffle is just a SS screen, which is about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the tank. The oil exits towards the rear of the tank bottom. You could make a simple can and use an external oil filter mount, but you must keep the tank screen/baffle as that is what separates the air from the oil.
There is nothing high pressure about the tank, the highest pressure would be the restriction of the oil filter.

I looked into doing this myself, it would be a fair bit of work to get it right but it is doable.
If you were to fab a tank, mild steel would be fine as long as the tank is sealed and always filled with clean oil. The issue would be rust through from the outside, the top being the most prone.
If you are good at welding and don't mind a bit of extra weight I bet you could MIG weld a steel tank. SS or AL would be better, but then you need a TIG welder.

In the end I found a deal on a complete DWD tank set and I scooped it up.

A mild steel tank will rust out from the inside too.
This is especially so with cars that sit for long periods.
The water condensate pools on the bottom of the tank as well as in droplets on the upper inside.
This is probably why the factory copper plated the tanks.

[mb911]

Wow didn't check for a couple days and now all kinds of info.. Good stuff thanks everyone..

The pictures help.. Mark I used a bore scope on yours to look inside of yours..

As to welding that is no problem for me. Been teaching welding at a teach college for the last 16 years and before that I was in the aviation wworld.. Along with designer and owner of m&k exhaust.com.

I have the shape made for the v1.0 and I actually will get side tracked this week making the inner longitudinal stiffener kit for my car.. But should have something to show shortly.. Keep the info coming

[mb911]

I looked into it a while ago. Links for the tank prints are here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...756&hl=tank

Just realized that you are right by me.. I work in Racine..

[Mark Henry]

I can show you a 72 911 tank that was cut open.

There is a bit to them, but they are just a can with a bit of internal plumbing and baffles. The oil enters the tank and is then plumbed through the oil filter, back into the tank and out onto the top of the screen baffle. The main baffle is just a SS screen, which is about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the tank. The oil exits towards the rear of the tank bottom. You could make a simple can and use an external oil filter mount, but you must keep the tank screen/baffle as that is what separates the air from the oil.
There is nothing high pressure about the tank, the highest pressure would be the restriction of the oil filter.

I looked into doing this myself, it would be a fair bit of work to get it right but it is doable.
If you were to fab a tank, mild steel would be fine as long as the tank is sealed and always filled with clean oil. The issue would be rust through from the outside, the top being the most prone.
If you are good at welding and don't mind a bit of extra weight I bet you could MIG weld a steel tank. SS or AL would be better, but then you need a TIG welder.

In the end I found a deal on a complete DWD tank set and I scooped it up.

A mild steel tank will rust out from the inside too.
This is especially so with cars that sit for long periods.
The water condensate pools on the bottom of the tank as well as in droplets on the upper inside.
This is probably why the factory copper plated the tanks.

Well OK, but the factory tank I opened had no plating on the inside, it also had no rust in the bottom of the tank, even though from the outside in it had countless holes in the top of the tank.
I do believe it had a surface treatment along the lines of ospho, but not copper.
That said I'm not interested in a debate.

I looked totally into this, if you are a competent welder and have the equipment I would have built either an Aluminum or stainless tank.
If you can get a hold of a DWD tank to scope out, they are IMHO the best tank out there. Below is his old website:

http://www.dwdesignwerks.com/oilsystem.htm

Although he stopped making them long ago, when he made a move to Australia, he still lurks here from time to time. His name is Don Welch and goes by member name BigD9146gt.
If he's not too busy, I bet he'd give you some pointers on tank design. I'd try to PM him directly.

BTW Patrick sell a tank that looks a lot like the DWD tank.
I can't confirm this, so it could be hearsay, but I've heard they are not quite as good as a DWD tank.

[jmill]

I looked into it a while ago. Links for the tank prints are here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...756&hl=tank

Just realized that you are right by me.. I work in Racine..

We'll have to get together. I need a tank myself. I'm also an A&P mechanic. Hell if you worked at Midwest Airlines I might even know you already.