'72 914 Power train swap, Removing V8, installing a .... Options

[jb6000]

Right now this car is a running 1972 914 with a 901 trans converted side shift, and a 350 SBC V8.


Salvage title car, registered etc. Calif.
BMW 320 calipers up front. Renegade conversion.

So there are many engines that work good in a 914.

The stock 914 4 cyl is about 180 pounds. (I am not sure if that is bare long block or dressed motor complete.)

The iron V8 with iron heads is about 525 pounds complete.

I have a motor that is a 4 cyl. that is 225 pounds long block and about 330 pounds dressed with a turbo.

It can put out 300-500 hp with equally high torque.
I have a 6 spd transaxle that adds a bit of weight but is far better.

So why is this 1.8 liter engine so much stronger than the original Porsche 914 1.8 liter engine?

The picture on the top is the naturally aspirated 914 head, the picture below that is the new engine's with a turbo force fed head. Yamaha was in on the creation of this head.

"An engine's power is limited by how much air can flow in and out of it."
Roughly quoted from some smart guy.

This engine has more valves than the Chevy V8.

[jb6000]

The engine I am talking about is one that almost everyone I have talked to knows nothing or little about :-)

It is an Audi 1.8 liter turbo 5 valve per cyl engine.

I have a 1999 Audi 1.8t 20v engine.
a Boxster S 6 speed trans.
an Audi 01X 6 speed trans.


The car wont be all Porsche but Porsche and Audi are closely related. The engine bolts to the trans. The engine is good if you do research to find out about it.

Here is the car.

I went and bought it. I got it for less than 6K. It has a posi or limited slip.








I have an Odyssey PC680 Battery now.




.

[Andyrew]

Looks like fun!

I did the exact same thing. You can see it all in my build thread below.

Looking forward to seeing progress. Myself and Mike Bellis both have this swap running.


Where in California are you?

[jb6000]

Looks like fun!

I did the exact same thing. You can see it all in my build thread below.

Looking forward to seeing progress. Myself and Mike Bellis both have this swap running.


Where in California are you?

Near Bakersfield.
I have seen the fun you and Mike have been having here.



Pictures:

ok here is the 1.8t 20V engine.

[jb6000]

The audi trans has that same mounting flange geometry. Kind of squiggly looking.

[jb6000]

The stronger Porsche transaxle I would prefer to use has a real round looking bellhousing.

[jb6000]

So they don't match but someone put an Audi V6 on this type of a Boxster trans.

See the shim on this bellhousing?

[jb6000]

So I need suggestions.
Can the 1.8T 20V adapt to this Boxster trans?

Could it be done with an adapter plate but not using a custom flywheel, clutch ...

Just make a thin (1/8" or 1/4" or 3/8") adapter plate?



Or forget this combination?

[Andyrew]

The boxster trans will bolt up. Mike has used both 5 and 6 speed units in his car.

The shim you see is something on the Audi v6s, not on the 4cyls. I can't remember why they use it but it's not a concern for the 4s. Just bolt it up and you'll see.

I have some washers on my 5 speed trans just to line it up perfectly by the oil pan. Not really a big deal.

[jb6000]

OK I will use the 1.8t 20v and the Boxster S 6 spd.

I need to figure out the axles. Mike said 19.5" and 20.5" long in his thread. I nee to double check with this transaxle.

[1970-1914]

Hi,

I would be interested in buying some or possibly all of your v8 drivetrain if you want to sell. I’ll send a pm with my contact info.

Pierre

[jb6000]

Hi,

I would be interested in buying some or possibly all of your v8 drivetrain if you want to sell. I’ll send a pm with my contact info.

Pierre

Thank you for your interest.

I might have it all up for sale after the swap is done. I am going to build the new power train fully before I pull any of the running gear it has. You have first shot at buying it. I hope it wont take a year but it might.

[jb6000]

I measured the bolt hole circle diameter of the output flanges on the Boxster transaxle I have and I get 95mm.

[Andyrew]

I measured the bolt hole circle diameter of the output flanges on the Boxster transaxle I have and I get 95mm.

You need to measure from the inside lip, aka the total diameter of the CV joint.

[jb6000]

I measured the bolt hole circle diameter of the output flanges on the Boxster transaxle I have and I get 95mm.

You need to measure from the inside lip, aka the total diameter of the CV joint.

I will check it. Thanks for the help Sir.

[jb6000]

Looks like the early 911 108mm CV.

[jb6000]

Eng. and trans.

[jb6000]

What I have:

Car
Water cooling in place
Engine
Transaxle
Shifter
Cables
Cable mounting bits on transaxle

What I don't have yet:

Fuel pump
ECU
Axles
Front motor mount
Rear transaxle mount
Exhaust
Intercooler
GT28 turbo
Chip
Injectors
Hyd. Clutch pedal
(not doing FBW throttle)

Goal 280 HP running car.
20 lbs boost at max.
Not changing dash or steering wheel.

[Andyrew]

What I have:

Car
Water cooling in place
Engine
Transaxle
Shifter
Cables
Cable mounting bits on transaxle

What I don't have yet:

Fuel pump
ECU
Axles
Front motor mount
Rear transaxle mount
Exhaust
Intercooler
GT28 turbo
Chip
Injectors
Hyd. Clutch pedal
(not doing FBW throttle)

Goal 280 HP running car.
20 lbs boost at max.
Not changing dash or steering wheel.

Fuel pump: I recommend a bosch 044 in a surge tank. I put mine in front of the motor. Way more fuel than you need. You can run a cheep chineese version with that much power and not have to worry about maxing out the pump. Probably get both for less than 100 with a spare pump...

ECU: I recommend considering a microsquirt/megasquirt, or one of the many other standalone systems. The Audi system is EXTREMELY complicated and has one of the hardest learning curves I've seen. Its really powerful and can be paired down but its way overcomplicated for you who is not using the Audi dash. You can also do flex fuel with the aftermarket systems and have internal boost control or water injection control.

Axles: You can change the flanges on the transmission for the 100mm axles, or go with custom axles. The 100mm flanges are difficult to find but are on the standard boxster transmission.

Front motor mount: Not needed. Mike and I run without.

Rear trans mount: Use 911 sport mounts ($30?) and then fab up something. Mike built a cradle. I built separate mounts from tube steel.

Exhaust: Lots of different manifolds available. I would go with a bottom mount manifold/log manifold. Top mounts make it tight to the 914 body, while bottom mounts can be much more forgiving. I Have the APR Iconell manifold. It'll never crack or break and is very good flowing but finding one is almost impossible and expensive. I had one left over from my APR stage 3 kit from my Audi. They are a PITA to mount though...

Intercooler. A small air to water could be plenty and compact. You wont get the airflow for an air to air system.

Turbo: GT28(RS?) is a great turbo. feels like a v8 with its instant power. You can also look at the many hybrid turbos on the market that will give similar power but on a bolt on system to the factory manifold. Look at Frankenturbo

Chip: See ECU

Injectors: 440's will support about 275 wheel (I make 260awhp on a GT28RS almost maxing out the system on a stock fuel pump), 660's will leave you with headroom for E85 or some mixing.

Hydro clutch pedal: There are some members that have made some kits that are not bolt in but surely are a decent starting point. I cant remember the name. A search should find it.


I did 260awhp on 19psi or around 330chp. Very very fun motor when it was in a 3300lb car. Mikes car makes about that and is a blast.

[Mike Bellis]

My axle lengths are specific to my "non-plunging" 930 CV joints. The axles need to slide in/out because the CV does not.

Make sure you measure. the transmission placement front/rear will change axle length.