Shifter woes, R, 2nd and 4th only Options

[BPic]

Evening everyone,

Ok, I used Dr. Evils notes - no luck. Used Racer Chris's bungee method and I got r,2,4th only. Was thinking the trans must just be screwed and adjusted way out of synch and got 1st 3rd and 5th! But no R,2,or 4.
I looked under the car with it in neutral and it appears that the shaft connection at the firewall is stopping it for moving any further to catch 1,3 and 5 when it is the correct position. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Back story: I did replace inside and outside firewalls and added Tangerine Racing's shift bushing.

It looks like if I removed the bushing and added the stock bushing it should have enough clearance. Has anyone had this issue with Tangerine's bushings? Will removing it help or is there a bigger issue? Or am I just an idiot and didn't follow the directions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Wanted to get the brain trusts input before I cut off the bushing. I do have a stock plastic bushing that I can install.

Here's a photo with the car in neutral. If I pull on the shifter it needs to move forward from where it is now.



Cheers all!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Mblizzard]

What year is the car? When I did N.Y. bushing change I had to take some material off the shift knuckle at the firewall.

Don’t know what kind of bolt is jammed in the knuckle but it is not stock and could. E part of the issue as well.

[BPic]

What year is the car? When I did N.Y. bushing change I had to take some material off the shift knuckle at the firewall.

Don’t know what kind of bolt is jammed in the knuckle but it is not stock and could. E part of the issue as well.

Bolt came with the transmission. It's identical except for the head. Car is a 72.

Thanks.

[Mblizzard]

What year is the car? When I did N.Y. bushing change I had to take some material off the shift knuckle at the firewall.

Don’t know what kind of bolt is jammed in the knuckle but it is not stock and could. E part of the issue as well.

Bolt came with the transmission. It's identical except for the head. Car is a 72.

Thanks.

Replace it with a stock bolt. It is likely interfering with the travel.

[BPic]

What year is the car? When I did N.Y. bushing change I had to take some material off the shift knuckle at the firewall.

Don’t know what kind of bolt is jammed in the knuckle but it is not stock and could. E part of the issue as well.

Bolt came with the transmission. It's identical except for the head. Car is a 72.

Thanks.

Replace it with a stock bolt. It is likely interfering with the travel.

It doesn't touch anything. In the pic you can see the coupler hits the bushing.

[porschetub]

I have the TR bush kit,before changing to uni-joint shift rod I have to grind a little off the stock coupler as Chris mentioned.
However something looks wrong here,you say the bulkhead was repaired,looks like that piece that holds the bush is too far back to the rear,fitting the stock (crap fitting) bush may be your only solution.
Good luck.

[914e]

The bolt should be a conical set screw part number 901-424-229-00

Here is a picture of it.



There is one at the front coupler
and one at the transmission



There is a hole drilled into both linkage sections that they screw into so that distance is fixed.

[porschetub]

Don't believe that's the issue,the OP has simply run out of fwd movement,the TR bush robs a little space but not enough to cause this.

[914Toy]

The bolt should be a conical set screw part number 901-424-229-00

Here is a picture of it.



There is one at the front coupler
and one at the transmission



There is a hole drilled into both linkage sections that they screw into so that distance is fixed.

Looking at the last pic above, the shift rod should be positioned by the cone screw such that it is fully through the linkage “cup”. Perhaps your not setting the cone screw in the original hole for it?

[gereed75]

https://www.pelicanparts.com/914/Parts/Peda...ge_side_big.jpg

Ref the diagram in the above thread

Since you have been able to engage both “planes” of gears relative to shift shaft length at some time (r/2/4 and 1/3/5) then there are only two possibilities:

1) the cone screw (23) setting 24 to 27 is lose (most probable)

2) the bushing #25 is gone ( could happen)

This assumes you have not changed the length of the forward portion of the shift linkage at either of the two splined connections in it between instances of the two different plane engagements.


In any case, it is about getting the right length of both portions of the shift linkage correct and FIXED (tight connections), assuming 25 is intact

In your current picture, 24/27 is too long, not allowing you to engage 1/3/5 or set screw 23 is not seated or 25 is gone. Again, assuming 26/30/19 is not too short)

In my experience, there is enough length adjustment at the 27 to 19 spline joint to accommodate variation in the thickness of Chris’s bushing

[ChrisFoley]

I can see the problem in the first picture. The bushing is spun around backwards.

[BPic]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)

Dammit!! Thanks Chris!! Easy fix! Was hoping you’d chime in.

[ChrisFoley]

Evening everyone,

Or am I just an idiot and didn't follow the directions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

^^^ This
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[ChrisFoley]

The big problem is that the easy fix is a pita.
I hope you have a right angle drill and still have the 3 extra rivets I sent.
Otherwise you have to pull the rod into the tunnel to flip the ball.

[BPic]

Evening everyone,

Or am I just an idiot and didn't follow the directions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

^^^ This
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[BPic]

The big problem is that the easy fix is a pita.
I hope you have a right angle drill and still have the 3 extra rivets I sent.
Otherwise you have to pull the rod into the tunnel to flip the ball.

I have the 3 extra rivets and an angle drill. She’s going on the lift this morning.

Thanks again!!