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> Transmission Removal, Best way to support the rear
sharper
post Jun 18 2020, 01:27 PM
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I'm having transmission issues and need to remove it to see about fixing it. Just wanted to get some opinions on the best way to support the rear of my 914 once its jacked up since ya'll got me scared reading the posts about jack stands. I do have ramps I could put under the wheels but just wonder if that would limit my mobility while under there; especially when it comes time to drop the tranny.
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iankarr
post Jun 18 2020, 01:59 PM
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Ramps shouldn't limit your mobility much in removing the transaxle...with the exception of getting to the CV bolts. Being able to rotate the wheel so the bolt is in a better position for the ratchet is helpful. Jack stands are totally fine, provided you use the safe ones (with pins) and they're properly placed. Just don't get under the car when it's only supported by a jack.

You'll also need to have some support for the back of the engine once you remove the transmission, otherwise it'll lean backwards and break your mounts. That support could be something simple like wood.
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SirAndy
post Jun 18 2020, 02:02 PM
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Ramps are great as are the pin type jack stands.

You can drop the engine/transmission as one unit onto a floor jack and just roll everything out the back.

If you don't have jackstands or ramps that give you enough height to get everything out the back, use whatever you have to drop the engine/trans down on the floorjack and *then* use less safe methods to get the rear up in the air enough to pull everything out.
That way you won't be under the car while it is less safe.

If you still have a rear valance, take that off too to get a few more inches of clearance.

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php
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SKL1
post Jun 18 2020, 02:29 PM
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IMHO I'd drop the engine and transaxle as a unit and then separate them. You can clean or powdercoat the engine sheet metal while the transaxle is getting "fixed." You can clean up the whole engine compartment etc because you'll have LOTS of room!

I'm doing exactly that right now with my '73.
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914e
post Jun 18 2020, 02:31 PM
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I don't know that ramps would get you high enough. You need to remove the wheels to get the half shafts out, there might be a way to work around them.
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SirAndy
post Jun 18 2020, 02:51 PM
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QUOTE(914e @ Jun 18 2020, 01:31 PM) *

I don't know that ramps would get you high enough. You need to remove the wheels to get the half shafts out, there might be a way to work around them.

You don't have to remove the wheels nor do you have to take the half shafts out. Simply disconnect the CVs on the transmission side and you can bungee them up or work them over the engine while you slide it out the back.
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AZBanks
post Jun 18 2020, 03:28 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 18 2020, 01:51 PM) *

QUOTE(914e @ Jun 18 2020, 01:31 PM) *

I don't know that ramps would get you high enough. You need to remove the wheels to get the half shafts out, there might be a way to work around them.

You don't have to remove the wheels nor do you have to take the half shafts out. Simply disconnect the CVs on the transmission side and you can bungee them up or work them over the engine while you slide it out the back.
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I find it easier to get the transmission side CV bolts out if I can rotate the shafts/CVs.
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PlaysWithCars
post Jun 18 2020, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(AZBanks @ Jun 18 2020, 02:28 PM) *

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jun 18 2020, 01:51 PM) *

QUOTE(914e @ Jun 18 2020, 01:31 PM) *

I don't know that ramps would get you high enough. You need to remove the wheels to get the half shafts out, there might be a way to work around them.

You don't have to remove the wheels nor do you have to take the half shafts out. Simply disconnect the CVs on the transmission side and you can bungee them up or work them over the engine while you slide it out the back.
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I find it easier to get the transmission side CV bolts out if I can rotate the shafts/CVs.

Easier? Yes. Necessary? No. And its possible to loosen the two bolts you can get to on the CV. Roll the car one half of a wheel rotation to make it easier to get to the other two. This also has the advantage of providing resistance from the wheel/ground contact to counteract the torque to loosen the bolts (if you don't have an e-brake like i don't (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)) But you have to be able to squeeze under the car w/ it on the ground.
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burton73
post Jun 18 2020, 04:51 PM
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look on our past posting on this. Do yourself a favor and put some plastic bags on the cv’s so you do not get more grease on you that you need to. Old car = you will get very dirty


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porschetub
post Jun 18 2020, 06:14 PM
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Had to do my input shaft seal after only a short time after getting my conversion going,never took the half shafts out but just tied them out of the way.
In my case I never considered removing engine/trans together as it hard with a 911 motor so pulled the box of the motor....not difficult by any means.
IMO you still need it high just so you can work under there so if your motor hasn't been out for a while its a an excellent time to do those other jobs as mentioned...there is always some thing to do.
My locking axle stands go high but I use 6x2''wood blocks under them for more base support and more height and pick up on the trailing arms rather than the donuts which are only for a trolley jack.
Good luck.
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sharper
post Jun 18 2020, 08:54 PM
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Thanks everyone. I'm hoping to pull just the tranny out and not the engine. It's a converted 6 and don't want to deal with oil lines, fuel lines, wiring, etc. if I don't have to. Not to mention balancing the extra weight on a jack. Plus, I think the ramps will get me high enough for the trans but not the engine.
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Nojoah
post Jun 18 2020, 11:50 PM
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QUOTE(sharper @ Jun 18 2020, 10:54 PM) *

Thanks everyone. I'm hoping to pull just the tranny out and not the engine. It's a converted 6 and don't want to deal with oil lines, fuel lines, wiring, etc. if I don't have to. Not to mention balancing the extra weight on a jack. Plus, I think the ramps will get me high enough for the trans but not the engine.

I think you've got the right idea here. Removing the tranny alone is a simple task and should not be a problem. As long as you can get the height, ramps will be fine. I see no problem using quality jack stands with a locking pin either. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) As others have said, you do not need to remove the cv's, simply unbolt at the tranny and tie them out of the way. Having the ability to spin the wheels helps with this so jack stands would be my preferred option. Use whatever you have available to support the engine, wood works best for me. Goodluck (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)
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