How did you mount dual pole oil pressure sender Options

[cgnj]

Almost ready to wake up the 2270 after dropping the motor to change oil pump & oil pressure relief circuit. How and where did you mount the dual pole sender. I am using a braided steel hose.

Thanks in advance

[sportlicherFahrer]

Depending on the length of your braided line you can get a P clamp that fits around the sender and mount the clamp to the top corner of the fan housing, one of the coil mounting bolts on the tin above #4 cylinder, or just about anywhere you desire. Best to find a mount point on the engine and not the body so you're not causing flex and vibration in the line which can cause premature failure of the line or fitting at the engine case.

[brant]

It needs to ground I believe at the mount
I once had a clamp that was loose and had to provide a ground path

[bdstone914]

It needs to ground I believe at the mount
I once had a clamp that was loose and had to provide a ground path

True. Or if you use a braided line it grounds through the line.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

go to the auto parts store and get a brass fitting with pipe threads to extend the oil pressure sending switch hole up and then screw in the sending unit

Almost ready to wake up the 2270 after dropping the motor to change oil pump & oil pressure relief circuit. How and where did you mount the dual pole sender. I am using a braided steel hose.

Thanks in advance

[nditiz1]

metal hose clamp with 2 mounting holes. Mount close by.

Yes it does need to be grounded

[NARP74]

My car came with this. I was getting flaky readings and realized it was not grounded, it was loose in the mount. Came up with a kludge and I'm still looking for an elegant solution.

[cgnj]

I think I found the p clamp I used originally.Now just need to find the box that I put the senders in.

[brant]

go to the auto parts store and get a brass fitting with pipe threads to extend the oil pressure sending switch hole up and then screw in the sending unit

Almost ready to wake up the 2270 after dropping the motor to change oil pump & oil pressure relief circuit. How and where did you mount the dual pole sender. I am using a braided steel hose.

Thanks in advance

I’ve seen similar set ups fail
And don’t recommend this set up

Brass will work harden and crack over time. Usually at the threads. Especially with the sender weight on top

A flexible hose will dampen the vibration
Brant

[nathanxnathan]

When I ran a dual pole sensor and a larger Mallory Distributor, I had found (I forget where) a braided stainless line and made a bracket (just a length of flat steel with holes drilled at each end) to mount to the nearest case parting bolt. The NPT thread of the sensor would snug down on the bracket just as it sealed on the tapered thread.

I think it was npt at both ends (male at 1 female at he other) which isn't really the best imo, though it was allegedly made for that application. I do think the dual pole senders are all tapered thread? I maintain that the hole in the case wasn't originally.

[Brian Fuerbach]

Ground is no problem with braided line. I sleeved the bracket with shrink tube for a cleaner look.

[DC_neun_vierzehn]

Ground is no problem with braided line. I sleeved the bracket with shrink tube for a cleaner look.

Brian - PM sent. I would like to learn more about this setup.

[ndfrigi]

This one I was planning in doing mine.

[nathanxnathan]

This one I was planning in doing mine.

I did it that way once. You have to modify the tin. Also the way it looks like that one is done and how I did it, you couldn't remove/replace the sender without removing the tin which is a major job. I used a VW bus ball joint boot for the grommet I recall. I went to a larger Mallory distributor, and I had to relocate it, and regretted having messed up the tin.

[VaccaRabite]

You will notice a lot of people that started with dual pole senders have moved back to a T joint, a sender for the pressure gauge and a stock sender for the idiot light.

The issue is that the idiot light turns on at about 4PSI, and the dual pole will light up around 10PSI. Which can mean you have a flickering oil light on a hot engine at idle, which is disconcerting.

Its one of those things where if you don't drive the car much or very long, or you make really good pressure, a dual pole is fine. But if you drive the car long enough for the oil to really come up to temp on a stock oil pump, you may find your oil light on, even though you have okay pressure.

[ndfrigi]

This one I was planning in doing mine.

I did it that way once. You have to modify the tin. Also the way it looks like that one is done and how I did it, you couldn't remove/replace the sender without removing the tin which is a major job. I used a VW bus ball joint boot for the grommet I recall. I went to a larger Mallory distributor, and I had to relocate it, and regretted having messed up the tin.

oh wow! thank you for that info. Good didn’t cut my tin yet when I painted them.

[NARP74]

You will notice a lot of people that started with dual pole senders have moved back to a T joint, a sender for the pressure gauge and a stock sender for the idiot light.

The issue is that the idiot light turns on at about 4PSI, and the dual pole will light up around 10PSI. Which can mean you have a flickering oil light on a hot engine at idle, which is disconcerting.

Its one of those things where if you don't drive the car much or very long, or you make really good pressure, a dual pole is fine. But if you drive the car long enough for the oil to really come up to temp on a stock oil pump, you may find your oil light on, even though you have okay pressure.

Mine does that. I thought it was a symptom of engine age, probably needs a rebuild, it still might. Good to know the trigger pressures though. Another project to add to my list.

[friethmiller]

You will notice a lot of people that started with dual pole senders have moved back to a T joint, a sender for the pressure gauge and a stock sender for the idiot light.

The issue is that the idiot light turns on at about 4PSI, and the dual pole will light up around 10PSI. Which can mean you have a flickering oil light on a hot engine at idle, which is disconcerting.

Its one of those things where if you don't drive the car much or very long, or you make really good pressure, a dual pole is fine. But if you drive the car long enough for the oil to really come up to temp on a stock oil pump, you may find your oil light on, even though you have okay pressure.

This is so true! I'm going to a split setup (idiot light and single pole sender). I currently have a dual pole installed and once hot, the oil pressure light flickers/comes on. It's even worse when the A/C is running which draws the rpms down a bit more.

[NARP74]

You will notice a lot of people that started with dual pole senders have moved back to a T joint, a sender for the pressure gauge and a stock sender for the idiot light.

The issue is that the idiot light turns on at about 4PSI, and the dual pole will light up around 10PSI. Which can mean you have a flickering oil light on a hot engine at idle, which is disconcerting.

Its one of those things where if you don't drive the car much or very long, or you make really good pressure, a dual pole is fine. But if you drive the car long enough for the oil to really come up to temp on a stock oil pump, you may find your oil light on, even though you have okay pressure.

This is so true! I'm going to a split setup (idiot light and single pole sender). I currently have a dual pole installed and once hot, the oil pressure light flickers/comes on. It's even worse when the A/C is running which draws the rpms down a bit more.

I developed a habit of revving at stop lights just so I don't see the light flicker.

[ClayPerrine]

go to the auto parts store and get a brass fitting with pipe threads to extend the oil pressure sending switch hole up and then screw in the sending unit

Almost ready to wake up the 2270 after dropping the motor to change oil pump & oil pressure relief circuit. How and where did you mount the dual pole sender. I am using a braided steel hose.

Thanks in advance

I’ve seen similar set ups fail
And don’t recommend this set up

Brass will work harden and crack over time. Usually at the threads. Especially with the sender weight on top

A flexible hose will dampen the vibration
Brant

Brant... I have had hoses fail... even high pressure grease gun hoses. So I use the same setup George does. But I make sure the heavy gauge sender is off the side of the t fitting, and that it is supported with a padded clamp mounted to the engine tin. So it does not vibrate and work harden the brass.

Watching a 50 psi spray of hot oil whip the hose around and coat everything in the engine compartment with hot oil (including me) is scary.

Clay