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> 914/4 Stroker cranks, Cheaper than Scat
makinson1
post Aug 13 2003, 08:00 AM
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Does anybody besides SCAT make 75mm stroker cranks for the 1.8 motor that are Cheaper than Scat?
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Tom Perso
post Aug 13 2003, 08:54 AM
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DMR makes good cranks, also check Aircooled. net. About $450 for a crank.

Why 75mm?

I am running 78.4x96 and love the combo. Good reliability, lotso torque, and easy to assemble.

Tom
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makinson1
post Aug 13 2003, 09:11 AM
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Doesn't anything over 75mm require machining the cases?
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Tom Perso
post Aug 13 2003, 10:00 AM
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No, I am running T1 rods, however. They will drop right in.

Email me if you want more info on what I've done.

Later,
Tom
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tat2dphreak
post Aug 13 2003, 10:55 AM
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why t1 rods?

the extra choices/cheaper?

or is it because they are shorter?
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tryan
post Aug 13 2003, 11:39 AM
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i had a 75 stroker crank in a ga block. not much left on the rod bolt heads. t1 journals would be a good idea if you like to rev it up.
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rhodyguy
post Aug 13 2003, 11:47 AM
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toms 2270 has VERY specific components. mod t1 rods, pin heigth is altered, lots more i think. if you intend to rebuild one you have to have all your ducks in a row.

kevin
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cgnj
post Aug 13 2003, 12:03 PM
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Type 1 rods are longer, journal is smaller, stuff fits better, pistons with 22mm pins located for 78mm stroke. Reduced base circle cam. Reduces headaches, but planning and scope control to hold down price.

Carlos

76 2270 (parts are coming home this week)

Stay tuned for pics of my Headflow Masters heads.
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tat2dphreak
post Aug 13 2003, 02:20 PM
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sweet dude, keep us informed... I plan to start laying out for a 2270 next spring/summer some time... and am really watching what other people do in this area...
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Tom Perso
post Aug 13 2003, 02:33 PM
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Yup,

You can run a T1 rod with a 78.4mm crank with modified crank journals for T1 rods. You get a little longer rod ratio to keep the piston speeds down.

Order up a set of KN HyperEutectic 96mm pistons from Aircooled.net that have the 22mm T1 wrist pin and a stoker location (for 78mm stroke) and you are well on your way.

Get a Webcam reduced basecircle cam (extra $10) and you should not have any case or cam interference.

(IMG:http://www.qtm.net/~persoj/graphics/vw/split_case.jpg)

A view of the case with the 78.4mm crank and the Scat I-beam rods.

(IMG:http://www.qtm.net/~persoj/graphics/vw/rods.jpg)

Another shot of the case, you can see where I just "touched" the rods up for a little more clearance (to make me happier) and then they were balanced be end to end weighing. I took the extra matereal off the rod cap. They were all within .1 gram of each other. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I needed .140" cylinder shim to get a 9.5:1 C/R

Make a set of pushrod tube spacers with a lathe and a piece of 1/2" black iron pipe (it pushes the pushrod tubes out just a shade to keep 'em from leaking) and I capped it off with a set of Aircooled.net HD AL pushrods.

I've zinged the motor to 7500rpm once, but I usually keep it to 6500 or so.

Later,
Tom
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Tom Perso
post Aug 13 2003, 02:37 PM
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(IMG:http://www.qtm.net/~persot/t4-9-27-5.jpg)

Gene Berg is rolling in his grave now that he sees his Oil pressure relief cover sitting on a T4!!!! HAHAHAHAAH

This motor is full flowed for superior oil filtration and maximum cooling potential. The oil is cooled via an external cooler (on a thermostat) before it hits the motor.

This was the arrangment in the Bug, it will be close to the same in the 914. This way, you can get rid of the restrictive oil filter passage inherant to the T4.

Later
Tom
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tat2dphreak
post Aug 13 2003, 02:48 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif)

wow dude! I am impressed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap56.gif)

thanks for sharing!
it looks great and I'm sure it runs like a mofo! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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tryan
post Aug 13 2003, 03:51 PM
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i would call that a viagra shot. sure gave me a woodie. strokin'
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redshift
post Aug 13 2003, 04:08 PM
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Holy cow Tom, that's awesome!


M
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Tom Perso
post Aug 13 2003, 05:10 PM
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Here's the proof in the pudding....

http://www.qtm.net/~persot/flowmaster_startup.WMV

http://www.qtm.net/~persot/drive_by2_video.WMV

It thumps... That motor will be in the 914 soon.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Later,
Tom
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anthony
post Aug 13 2003, 05:20 PM
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Great job Tom!!! Can you tell us how many hours you got into figuring everything out. How many other engines have you built? I've been collecting parts to build my first engine but I was thinking that a 2056 would be more manageable for a first timer. Your posts here make a 2270 sound easy. What do you think?
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URY914
post Aug 13 2003, 06:17 PM
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First off, Tom enough of the Type IV porn. My wife says I spend too much time on the 'puter and in the garage already.

Second, Anthony took the works out of my mouth. I was lead to believe the 2270 required all kinds of clearancing work to the case. Or is choosing the right parts the trick?

Which Type 1 rods are you using? Are they "stock" Type 1 in size only? Or actual T1's

Paul
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Tom Perso
post Aug 13 2003, 07:05 PM
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Guys,

This is the first motor I have EVER built. Ever... I'm not kidding.

It takes a little homework and mocking up, but nothing *really* crazy. I put this one together twice: The first time the lifters let loose, here's the carnage from it: http://www.qtm.net/~persot/webcam/

It wasn't my fault, it was mispackaged lifters from SCAT. Oh well - live and learn. Aircooled.net took care of the problem like a champ.

So, I put this one together twice and helped my friend Grant put together a 2056 for his 912. Yes, the 2056 is easier to put together, but the 2270 basically the same thing. Just lots of checking of parts first.

The rods are SCAT I-beam rods with ARP bolts. Nothing special.

Putting the motor together is easy. It's getting the right heads, induction, and exhaust.

Heads, go to Headflowmasters and tell Adrian what you are building and he'll help you out. He's a good guy.

Send the whole rotating mass to Jake Raby for a balancing service (after you've mocked everything up to make sure it clears).

You might have to add an extra oil cooler just for those high RPM blasts (which WILL happen) and some highway driving. Get a setrab cooler pack and never look back.

I make it sound easy - but in the engine building reality, it's not that bad.

It's 90% preparation, 9% sweat, and 1% good luck... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Later,
Tom
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URY914
post Aug 13 2003, 07:19 PM
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Great reply Tom.

I'm building a 2270 than.

Thanks,

Paul
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URY914
post Aug 13 2003, 07:32 PM
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I have asked questions on the type4fourm and never seem to get a clear answer IMO.

There are alot of people with alot of things to say but if they would just give me a stright answer.

Paul
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