Clutch problem help!, Clutch cable pulls but will not shift into gear. Options

[ehick72]

I replaced the clutch recently and I have been driving it for a few months. I got it back from the shop. They were looking at the speedo cable. Anyway on the way home it just stopped letting me shift. I checked the clutch cable and it seems to be working. What else could it be.

Eric

[john rogers]

Are there TWO nuts on the end at the clutch release arm? If only one it can slowly back off and the clutch will not disengage.

[Allan]

Are there TWO nuts on the end at the clutch release arm? If only one it can slowly back off and the clutch will not disengage.

That and you may have the clutch tube coming loose.

I hope it's the first...

[SirAndy]

or the setscrew on the shift coupler came lose ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Andy

[Joe Bob]

Check the nuts on the end, adjust and check for pedal play. If you still have an issue, most likely a loose tube in the center. They like to pop at the welds.

[ehick72]

Ok I have no idea what you are talking about when you say "TWO nuts on the end at the clutch release arm? ". I don't see any nuts at the end of what I think the arm is. Are you talking about the Clutch Release Lever? I am guessing not. now there is a nut at the end of the cable that connects to the Clutch Release Lever. Anyway I have been under there tightening loosening wiggling and crying over everything under that car.

Also how can I tell of the clutch tube is loose. Is this the tube the cable goes through?

Eric

[wbergtho]

The clutch tube or Bowden tube is the metal guide tube your clutch cable slides through. It is welded in two spots...One a few inches ahead of your shifter inside the center tunnel and at the firewall where your clutch cable housing inserts. These two welded spots are notorious for giving out and you have no clutch actuation as a result. When the tube tears away...it moves instead of allowing your cable to stroke enough to fully release your pressure plate. Get a flashlight, pull up your carpet around your shifter and inspect the forward weld...actuate the clutch pedal up & down and literally view the bowden tube...if the Bowden tube moves even a micron, it needs to be re-welded or have a tab welded in place to keep it still. Now, jack the car up and crawl under your car and inspect the firewall area where your cable inserts. If this area is fine, you might have a roll pin problem in your pedal box where your clutch pedal arm fits onto the shaft. Once in a blue moon the roll pin will deform or break. I'm guessing it isn't the roll pin and more likely the bowden tube...(make sure you have TWO nuts stopped against each other where the cable meets the trans like the other dude said)

[ehick72]

Ok I think I fixed it!! Thank you everyone for your help!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I think I started freakin out was just overlooking the obvious. I tightened the cable more. Now my clutch engages a lot sooner but works great. Before I would push it to the floor before it engaged.

It sucks when you are working by yourself and you don't have another person to push the clutch pedal in. Is there a possibilty this new clutch I installed needed some breaking in thus requiring a cable tightening? The reason I ask is that I don't want to think the garage jacked with my cable also.

You see for lack of time I took it into Austin Veedub to have the speedometer and brake light looked at. Aside from them looking at me like I was a stupid yuppie boy, they told me my speedo cable was broke and it would cost $65 for the part and $115 for the work. I politely told him that I already found the part for $40. He then got short with me, so then I said just look at the brake light and I will do the speedo cable myself.

Anyway when I got it back I almost made it home when I had to pull into a sonic figuring my engine was overheated (it was sputtering). I opened the engine lid to let heat off the engine and saw that my air filter was off and 3 air hoses were disconnected. Then when I put everything back together the clutch wouldn't work. I was pissed but it was easier to fix it myself then try and drive it back out there. It just concerns me because you don't need to remove air hoses to work on the brake lights or look at the speedo cable. Anyway If they loosened my clutch cable then they are deliberately trying to F me!

Thanks again to everyone for your input! I will get better at this stuff oneday and pass your knowledge along to the other young Jedi.

Eric

[john rogers]

That nut you tightened, make sure there are TWO and are very tight together. That is what I was talking about.

[Joe Bob]

The nut that tightens the play on the cable....usually has TWO nuts that tighten together to keep them from backing off due to the clutch action....the old in an out, ya know what I mean....

Some people will use a single nylock, but they can loosen up especially if they have been used-reused to many times.....double nutting is the sure way to keep it from loosening up.