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> Cancelling Directionals
jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 08:11 AM
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Hi,

I looked, but didn't see anything....

I have an afternarket steering wheel, and the directionals do not self cancel.
It is a pain, especially since the indicator light is so dark. I end up with the
directionals on all the time, even parked!

How hard is it to add a directional cancelling thing? I've looked in the column, and
think I see the canceller wire, but what does the part on the wheel look like? Can
I make one?

Thanks,

Jeff
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Air_Cooled_Nut
post Jul 25 2006, 09:42 AM
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There isn't a cancellation wire, it's done mechanically. There's a tab on the steering wheel that trips the cancellation mechanisim.
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 09:48 AM
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I know. Anybody have a picture of the cancelling thing on the wheel??
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Phoenix-MN
post Jul 25 2006, 12:05 PM
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Attached ImageHere's a shot of a 911 Steering wheel I modified for use in my 914
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 12:45 PM
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Now I gotta go pull the wheel again to see how that relates. Not quite
what I expected!

Thanks!

Jeff
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ptravnic
post Jul 25 2006, 01:59 PM
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Also, the little plastic pieces that get "tripped" within the stalk have a tendency to break. Imagine that, a 30+yr old plastic piece breaking...
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 02:05 PM
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You mean, GASP!, the plastic is not suppoed to be flat in the column???

Oh, oh.....

Maybe I need a picture of that side too!

Jeff
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 02:24 PM
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Okay, here is the column picture. The left directional is ON in the picture.
Can you tell if I am broken?? And, HOW does it cancel?

Attached Image


Thanks,

Jeff
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Air_Cooled_Nut
post Jul 25 2006, 02:35 PM
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You're not broken!! Typically, it's one of the plastic hooks for that squiggly spring that break. The semi-circular tab sticking out of the pictured steering wheel is located next to the steering column shaft and travels very close to that white tab you see sticking out at the 3 o'clock position (pointing to the column). You can take your finger or screwdriver and follow the inner circumference and push the white tab (it see-saws, you don't push it towards the 3 o'clock direction) to cancel your turn. In your case as pictured (turning left), you would sweep in a clockwise direction as that's the same way you'd be turning the steering wheel once you made your turn and were straightening your wheels.
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rktmn247
post Jul 25 2006, 02:37 PM
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The piece (I don't have a pic) that attaches to my hub adapter catches the white plastic part when the wheel comes back to center.

Mine is only self canceling on one side so I will have to play with mine some more to get it working right.

Yours looks ok to me, but I am by no means an expert.
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Air_Cooled_Nut
post Jul 25 2006, 02:40 PM
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Looks like it could use some cleaning in there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

If you have to remove it, whether to replace or better clean, it's pretty easy. The four screws you see there easily remove, then you pull the signal assembly out. Oh, under the steering column you need to remove the electrical plug as well. Very similar operation to that of an air-cooled VW (just did this to my VW on Saturday). A shop manual should give additional help...I'm probably missing something since I'm going by memory, but it is really easy to remove/replace.
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John
post Jul 25 2006, 02:40 PM
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That pic looks like an early one. The later ones were black plastic and were also part of the horn ring.

On later cars, the horn ring turned with the steering wheel.

When you install the adapter for the aftermarket wheel, you are supposed to transfer that part to the adapter from your original wheel.
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 02:51 PM
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Thanks!!!


I just ran downstairs to try it. It works as advertised!! Now I just wish I was a machinist so I could figure out how to make the canceller part!

It seems to be pretty sticky in there, so I think I will do a little cleaning.
Finally, a project that shouldn't cost much money (famous last words!!!).

The play in the column bearing may be a bigger issue!

Jeff
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 02:54 PM
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The car is a '75. No idea if anything was replaced. I do not have the
original wheel.
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SirAndy
post Jul 25 2006, 03:08 PM
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QUOTE(jd66921 @ Jul 25 2006, 01:51 PM) *

The play in the column bearing may be a bigger issue!

for that, there's a metal sleeve that get's wedged between the shaft and the bearing ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Andy
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jd66921
post Jul 25 2006, 05:45 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jul 25 2006, 02:08 PM) *

QUOTE(jd66921 @ Jul 25 2006, 01:51 PM) *

The play in the column bearing may be a bigger issue!

for that, there's a metal sleeve that get's wedged between the shaft and the bearing ...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Andy




Ok, Andy, where do I get such a sleeve? Are they commercially available?

Also, to end this, I hope, here are the pieces of the adapter:
Attached Image

The piece on the right goes under the black piece. Is that an original Porsche
piece?

The other side of it looks like:
Attached Image

As you can see, there is no cancelling thingie! Can I possibly buy another part
to replace it? The wheel is a Grant's aftermarket steering wheel, and I like it!

Thanks,

Jeff
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John
post Jul 25 2006, 11:42 PM
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It looks as if someone had modified your adapter. It appears that they epoxied a fabricated horn ring to the splined aluminum part. I can see from the pictures that it has 3 threaded holes in it.

Those holes were to be used to mount the late model horn ring/cancelation tab from the original late model steering wheel.

You may be able to fabricate a cancelation tab from some sheet metal and epoxy or otherwise mount it to the aluminum splined part.

All the cancelation tab does is pivot the small white protrusion that you took a picture of earlier in this thread.

You may try to find a late model, broken but otherwise complete (with horn ring and cancelation tab) original steering wheel. I would be surprised if an old ratty one would bring much $.

Post a WTB add in the classified section. It would be by far the easiest solution.

Good luck with it.

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jd66921
post Jul 26 2006, 12:32 PM
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I decided to try a fix on my own. I found a long 6-32 screw from a sheet rock
anchor. I drilled a hole in the inner mount, and inserted the screw:

Attached Image

This works, but is not quite right yet. I put it in so it would align with the
part I need to hit to cancel the signal. But it does not align quite right As
one of the others showed, it is better to have a piece of sheet metal in there
todo the cancelling. Since I don't have that, I may just add another screw
spaced a little way away from this one to cancel in the other direction!

Anyway, it was a fun project, cheap for once, and may keep me from
wearing out the battery if I forget the lights are on!

Thanks for all the help and pictures!!

Jeff
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teenerted1
post Jul 27 2006, 04:55 PM
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QUOTE(jd66921 @ Jul 25 2006, 01:24 PM) *

Okay, here is the column picture. The left directional is ON in the picture.
Can you tell if I am broken?? And, HOW does it cancel?

Attached Image


Thanks,

Jeff

i was wondering where that spring thing on the floor came from,found it a few weeks after my cancelation stopped working. now i have to look to see if the tabs are broken. figured that is why my horn stayed on till i removed the relay.
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