Axle adaptor came loose. Damage pics, Grrrrr Options

[Dr. Roger]

No I didn't clean the threads before using blue loc-tite.

When they go on again they are getting safety wire. Period.

You can see the broken starter mount tab, broken CV bolt, and broken rear shift bar guide. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

The other CV adaptor was on it's way off as you can see. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Do yourself a favor and check yours regularly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Roger

[Dr Evil]

Ouch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[John]

I have had this thought more than once:


Drive shaft loops are a good thing!

just one of my thoughts......

[Series9]

Mike Wills was just there with 'ya.

Safty wire for me from now on. It's cheap insurance.

Mike, I'll take five sets for stock.

[Cap'n Krusty]

So there's a plate between the CV joint and the output flange, right? And the bolts appear to be countersunk, right?The CV joint bolts themselves appear to be tight, right? Howya gonna safety wire the countersunk bolts? Am I missing something? While you can easily safety the CV joint bolts, they're not the ones that came loose, so what's the purpose of wiring them? It would seem to me that you could engineer the adapter so the bolts tightened flush with the surface to which the CV joint seats. If they're flush when torqued, then they CAN'T back out. End of problem. The Cap'n

[Dr Evil]

Mike Wills was just there with 'ya.

Safty wire for me from now on. It's cheap insurance.

Mike, I'll take five sets for stock.

Hey Joe,
PM me and I can hook you up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I need to make them up as I donated my last few to the FFC (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[GWN7]

Mike....how do you wire the inside bolts? (CV to sub axel).....When mine came loose it was them.

[Dr Evil]

Mike....how do you wire the inside bolts? (CV to sub axel).....When mine came loose it was them.

Hey Bruce,

I actually do not as it requires that you remove the stub axle (almost always destroying the bearing) and those hardly ever come loose in my experience.

So basically you need to remove the stub axle, bolt it to the CV and wire the bolts, reinstall the stub axle assembly. If you can wire it with the CV still instaleld in the arm on the stub, then you ARE a 914 stud!

[brant]

its not a loc-tite issue.

I interestingly heard about a new tip last friday that cures this problem
the story goes that the 300hp race cars were having these come loose more than 1x per a day.

the problem is the gasket.
and new gaskets that are typically used.
the gasket compresses and then the bolts come loose.

my race shop told me that they are using high temp silicone (sorry capt'n) with NO gaskets and have solved the problem now.

brant

[John]

Removing the inner stub axle doesn't destroy the rear wheel bearing, removing the outer hub does.

My dad had some of the outer (in the trailing arm) come loose on his first drive after re-assembling his car for the first time back in 84'. Since then, I have always simply cleaned all the threads or replaced the bolts and torqued them to specs. I prefer using new bolts.

[Dr Evil]

Oh ya, thats right. Its been 3-4 years since I had mine apart (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

So, ya gotta remove the stub axle (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[JeffBowlsby]

Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too...

[John]

Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too...

You may have answered your own question.

Typically, with a bunch more HP, these loosening bolts can become an issue. I always check mine when on the lift and do replace the schorr washers each time I have the bolts out.

[brant]

Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too...

no offense Jeff, but my guess is that the reason you don't have an issue is due to less HP.... at 200hp it becomes a big issue. At 300hp it is a mandatory type situation.

but on a street car down to about 120hp new washers are good.

I did new washers at 150hp and still had them start to loosen.

[GWN7]

When mine came loose it was just one side. The same side that had a wheel bearing replaced before I picked up the car. There were missing washers (i'm guessing who ever worked on it dropped some and went "don't need those little things anyway" and they never retorqued the inner ones or they weren't torqued properly. So 2500 miles later it became a nova ( no go) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Matt Romanowski]

Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too...

I'm with Jeff. I'm at ~175 hp and never have trouble.

The worry of clean threads is incorrect. Anyone torque rod bolts dry? Case bolts? Head Bolts? A lubricated thread inceases the actual torque applied.

I've never had any come loose - street cars, track cars, 911s, 944s.

[GS Guy]

Need a set of these "we don need no stink'n adapters" output stubs. 100mm CV straight bolt-on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Hey Mike, I need some sets of the bolts too - I'll PM you.

Jeff

[Cap'n Krusty]

Mike....how do you wire the inside bolts? (CV to sub axel).....When mine came loose it was them.

Hey Bruce,

I actually do not as it requires that you remove the stub axle (almost always destroying the bearing) and those hardly ever come loose in my experience.

So basically you need to remove the stub axle, bolt it to the CV and wire the bolts, reinstall the stub axle assembly. If you can wire it with the CV still instaleld in the arm on the stub, then you ARE a 914 stud!

And how does removing the stub axle damage the bearing? The hub remains in the bearing, the stub axle slides out of the hub. I fail to see the connection. The Cap'n

[Cap'n Krusty]

its not a loc-tite issue.

I interestingly heard about a new tip last friday that cures this problem
the story goes that the 300hp race cars were having these come loose more than 1x per a day.

the problem is the gasket.
and new gaskets that are typically used.
the gasket compresses and then the bolts come loose.

my race shop told me that they are using high temp silicone (sorry capt'n) with NO gaskets and have solved the problem now.

brant

"Sorry"? Don't be. I've used RTV for that purpose for decades. As long as it has time to dry, it's perfect for the application. It's just in the engine, tranny, and body apps like windows, etc., that I wouldn't use it. The Cap'n

[jsteele22]

Whats the issue? I drive my 94 12K miles a year and have for years, never had a CV bolt come loose. I torque em to spec and use the serrated washers, why do others have issues? Yep I use the stock gaskets and lube too...

no offense Jeff, but my guess is that the reason you don't have an issue is due to less HP.... at 200hp it becomes a big issue. At 300hp it is a mandatory type situation.

but on a street car down to about 120hp new washers are good.

I did new washers at 150hp and still had them start to loosen.

Brant,

I'm a little confused. Are you saying that on higher-HP cars new washers are not the way to go ? Or just that even using new washers is not enough ?

Jeff B,

When you say "serrated" washers, is that the same as the stock ones ? I seem to recall that they were smooth but wavy. Are you using something different ?


The more I hear about bolts coming loose (this seems to be the season) the more I'm leaning to welded-on adapter plates....