 I have the parts which should I build?, these are for my spare engines |
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| 2teeners |
  Jan 6 2003, 08:27 AM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 79 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Arlington DFW, TX Member No.: 78  |
<_<
Cost is an object, I don't want to spend big $$$ but a few hundred is Ok. Looking to build a good street driver. If I could find some 1.8 heads I'd use those, so far no luck. I plan on enlarging the exhaust ports on the 1.7 to be more like a 2.0 head, I've never driven a carb'd car, or one without a stock cam. I like low end torque, but an engine that "comes on the cam" a little more than stock would be nice. So what do you guys think? |
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| Brad Roberts |
Jan 6 2003, 08:21 PM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Go with the 1911 carbed. They rock. Very smooth engine that like to RPM (short stroke) but has good power up high.
I personally would use 2.0 heads on it... but 1.7 heads with 2.0 sized valves would work almost as well. B |
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| Gint |
Jan 6 2003, 10:38 PM
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#3
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Mike Ginter Group: Admin Posts: 16,096 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains  |
I had a 1.8 w 96 mm P/C's (1911), 40IDF's and a hydraulic lifters (unknown origin and don't know if it still had stock FI cam). LOVED that car. The low end torque was fantastic, but it was still fairly linear to 5500rpm. Should be one of the cheapest options as well.
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| Mueller |
Jan 6 2003, 11:19 PM
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#4
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 17,155 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None 
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Ginter,
Did you have that set up in the yellow car that I drove in Texas? That car did scoot along very nicely, even with both of our big ass's in it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Mueller |
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| 2teeners |
Jan 7 2003, 12:32 AM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 79 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Arlington DFW, TX Member No.: 78 |
A mild surprise so far. I thought the 2.0l would be everyone's choice. A rev'r would be fun, and the carbs look so damn cool on it.
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| Brad Roberts |
Jan 7 2003, 12:51 AM
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#6
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
You said "few hundred"... I dont know of ANY 2.0s that can be had for a few hundred dollars. I would never pick anything but the 2.0... then I would make it a 2056 with the larger 96mm P+C's.
Humm. I know where a good running 2.0 is locally.. carbed for 800$ B |
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| Gint |
Jan 7 2003, 01:42 PM
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#7
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Mike Ginter Group: Admin Posts: 16,096 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Denver CO. Member No.: 20 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Mueller
Yup, that's the one. Hinkle owns it now. |
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| 2teeners |
Jan 8 2003, 08:22 AM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 79 Joined: 2-January 03 From: Arlington DFW, TX Member No.: 78 |
what i meant was I would spend a few hundred more beyond the parts i have to build the motor.
Brad, can you point me to some 71x96 pistons? I've got barrels I can bore if needed. and any deals on 1.8 or 2.0 heads to top it off? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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| Brad Roberts |
Jan 8 2003, 04:33 PM
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#9
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914 Freak! Group: Members Posts: 19,148 Joined: 23-December 02 Member No.: 8 Region Association: None |
Brand new 96's for the 71 crank are something like 350$ or under 300$. Just buy new ones.. dont jack around with cutting 94's to make them 96's. (I know this is what Raby does)
I ran across several sets of 2.0 heads yesterday in my stash. Problem is: I get 400-500$ for them depending on how complete they are. I dont keep cracked ones.. B |
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| r_towle |
Mar 31 2006, 09:32 PM
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#10
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States
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read and remember
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